V4R or V4 25’ Anniversario 916

endodoc said:

Keith, what bike do you have?

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V4R

I have an old post somewhere with detailed build weights, I weighed everything coming off and going on, it does get pretty expensive after a point to drop much weight. Currently running the BST rapid tek wheels but they are working on star tek race only wheels due out later this year.

I'm thinking stretched 'busa, with turbo and nitrous might have been a better choice for that feeling of power. Check this out


this is what's in your bikes DNA, 234 hp no one cares, but turning; oh yes! See how Batista brakes and drifts it in- amazing to think your bike with a bit of setting up and some slicks could be with a few seconds of him with a skilled rider. The best money you can spend is on track time and tutoring, that's where I'd put my carbon wheel money. You will not appreciate them unless you find the limits of your marchesinis.

Paul G said:

I'm thinking stretched 'busa, with turbo and nitrous might have been a better choice for that feeling of power. Check this out


this is what's in your bikes DNA, 234 hp no one cares, but turning; oh yes! See how Batista brakes and drifts it in- amazing to think your bike with a bit of setting up and some slicks could be with a few seconds of him with a skilled rider. The best money you can spend is on track time and tutoring, that's where I'd put my carbon wheel money. You will not appreciate them unless you find the limits of your marchesinis.

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I’m just at the beginning phase of learning the joys of bike turning and lean...I love it, but have soooo far to go and a long learning curve ahead of me on that...in the mean time I don’t want to get bored by having no power rush at all when I get out of the Porsche and onto the bike, I did look at doing a Busa or and H2R, but I wanted a more balanced bike that I could enjoy the power of immediately while I grow into the curves on it.

This bike

is as close to motoring perfection as I’ve ever experienced in any vehicle of any type

I’m absolutely in love

put my shorty levers on and bar end mirrors and got everything ergonomically adjusted to me...I also put my OverSuspension unit on there, and made some suspension adjustments

then ride it for 4 hours, now all I want to do is grab a quick bite and head right back out lol

I’m not changing a single thing on this bike, it’s perfect

Steven31371 said:

I’m not changing a single thing on this bike, it’s perfect

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See how long that lasts haha, you will want to do a few mods to fix some of the .... stock parts, crash protection, and other things once you get used to it. If you wind up tracking it you will want to make some suspension changes too especially as you start to go faster, those will pretty much be needed to match to your weight.

brad8266 said:

See how long that lasts haha, you will want to do a few mods to fix some of the .... stock parts, crash protection, and other things once you get used to it. If you wind up tracking it you will want to make some suspension changes too especially as you start to go faster, those will pretty much be needed to match to your weight.

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okay well maybe a few things lol

I want my TWM aero levers and some crash protection sliders...and as you say if I track it much it will probably need some new internals for the front Ohlins to support my weight better on hard braking. Gunna adjust the pre-load on those tonight for that.

my zip tie is too low for the fairly hard but not Motorsports braking I did out on the road today

Oversuspension is just dead weight on a street going bike. Even on track, you have to be pushing the limits of traction for it to really make a difference. The riding it requires to actually perform its job just isn't really possible on the street unless you have a death wish.

Reset that zip tie and try some emergency like braking, I’m sure you’ll bury it. Stock springs just aren’t the right spring rate unless you are light, and if I flip back a few pages you don’t appear to be a smaller guy, your best bet is get the right springs for your weight to prevent bottoming in the event you have to emergency brake. Preload likely won’t be enough for you. Springs and install are cheap. Bottoming forks in an emergency is a sure way to crash.

Maverick is 100 percent correct, you will never push the suspension on the road like you will on a track, no matter how hard you think you are riding on the road. It’s an entirely different experience. The only exception is if you have to emergency brake on the road to avoid the car that didn’t see you and turned into the road in front of you. You do not want your tires to become your suspension because you bottomed the forks.

MaverickiB said:

Oversuspension is just dead weight on a street going bike. Even on track, you have to be pushing the limits of traction for it to really make a difference. The riding it requires to actually perform its job just isn't really possible on the street unless you have a death wish.

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agreed but I think it’s still a safety measure on the street because it eliminates most high sides.

also I do feel a bit of a difference with it versus without when hitting bumps while adding power coming off a curve apex...on hard-ish acceleration on a bumpy road coming off an apex the bike feels more settled to me with it

brad8266 said:

Reset that zip tie and try some emergency like braking, I’m sure you’ll bury it. Stock springs just aren’t the right spring rate unless you are light, and if I flip back a few pages you don’t appear to be a smaller guy, your best bet is get the right springs for your weight to prevent bottoming in the event you have to emergency brake. Preload likely won’t be enough for you. Springs and install are cheap. Bottoming forks in an emergency is a sure way to crash.

Maverick is 100 percent correct, you will never push the suspension on the road like you will on a track, no matter how hard you think you are riding on the road. It’s an entirely different experience. The only exception is if you have to emergency brake on the road to avoid the car that didn’t see you and turned into the road in front of you. You do not want your tires to become your suspension because you bottomed the forks.

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Was looking for a good suspension shop in SoCal to do it...couldn’t find any

do you guys have a recommended shop in SoCal for that?

and yes, I’m 6’3” and 250 pounds in boxers in the morning haha...so probably 270 in leathers for now, been losing about 4 pounds a week, will get down to about 215.

Not sure how good this place is but it’s the first hit on ohlins service in SoCal
http://www.brennershocks.com/service/
If you’re handy and up to it it’s not hard to do yourself either.

I’m gunna need some track time ASAP on this bike to speed up the learning curve, it leans and turns so easily that I find myself wanting to lean more and because I don’t have enough speed I’m over steering decent curves haha

but I’m just not competent enough on it to carry enough speed on turn in to lean as much as I want and get the line right.

I need some track instruction time where I feel comfortable increasing my turn in speed more quickly than I can or will on the street with oncoming traffic and no run off area

we just bought a new house and are moving this weekend, as soon as we settle in I’m going to book one of those track sport bike riding classes over in Vegas and then get some track time in.

I can balance my car at the limits and move the weight to any wheel and throttle steer it it etc...but the bike is different in every way

I had the same oversteer issue compared to my previous bike. I found this bike to just be too front biased for my liking. I wound up pushing the forks back down in the triple clamp and lowering the rear ride height some. Now it’s how I want it. Still turns quick but is more manageable for me.

Do one track riding instruction day, it will pay dividends.

yeah even if you are 215 those stock fork springs gotta go. They were not close to enough for me and I’m 175-180 without gear.

brad8266 said:

Not sure how good this place is but it’s the first hit on ohlins service in SoCal
http://www.brennershocks.com/service/
If you’re handy and up to it it’s not hard to do yourself either.

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that guy is up in Simi Valley

push comes to shove if I can’t find anyone closer he looks like he knows what he’s doing

Steven31371 said:

agreed but I think it’s still a safety measure on the street because it eliminates most high sides.

also I do feel a bit of a difference with it versus without when hitting bumps while adding power coming off a curve apex...on hard-ish acceleration on a bumpy road coming off an apex the bike feels more settled to me with it

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I think you need to reread how it actually works and ground yourself in reality for a second my friend. Oversuspension does not mitigate bumpy roads or assist in normal suspension duties. Its job is to smooth out the power impulses from the motor that rapidly oscillate the swingarm. These oscillations are no big deal when the bike is upright, but when it is way over on its side (at lean angles I highly doubt you're hitting as a relatively new sportbike rider and the size of your unused area of the tire) the rear shock stops being the suspension device and the swingarm itself takes over that role. Having your swingarm oscillating while it is the suspension device causes instability. Oversuspension buffers out the impulses from the motor, reducing that vibration in the swingarm and making power application more smooth, increasing traction.

That is how it eliminates highsides. At extreme lean angles and extreme limits of traction, motor RPM and the resonant frequency of your swingarm could suddenly match and cause instability leading to the rear breaking loose suddenly. Nobody is pushing that hard on the street.

Like I said, you aren't using it. Any improvement you're feeling is in your head. You've added a bunch of weight to the end of your swingarm for no reason.

Damn Maverick. Your logic and thorough explanation isn't necessary here lol

MaverickiB said:

I think you need to reread how it actually works and ground yourself in reality for a second my friend. Oversuspension does not mitigate bumpy roads or assist in normal suspension duties. Its job is to smooth out the power impulses from the motor that rapidly oscillate the swingarm. These oscillations are no big deal when the bike is upright, but when it is way over on its side (at lean angles I highly doubt you're hitting as a relatively new sportbike rider and the size of your unused area of the tire) the rear shock stops being the suspension device and the swingarm itself takes over that role. Having your swingarm oscillating while it is the suspension device causes instability. Oversuspension buffers out the impulses from the motor, reducing that vibration in the swingarm and making power application more smooth, increasing traction.

That is how it eliminates highsides. At extreme lean angles and extreme limits of traction, motor RPM and the resonant frequency of your swingarm could suddenly match and cause instability leading to the rear breaking loose suddenly. Nobody is pushing that hard on the street.

Like I said, you aren't using it. Any improvement you're feeling is in your head. You've added a bunch of weight to the end of your swingarm for no reason.

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You nailed it.

100% of street riders will greatly reduce the risk of high sides if they learned how to ride the bike properly.

Steven31371 said:

This bike

is as close to motoring perfection as I’ve ever experienced in any vehicle of any type

I’m absolutely in love

put my shorty levers on and bar end mirrors and got everything ergonomically adjusted to me...I also put my OverSuspension unit on there, and made some suspension adjustments

then ride it for 4 hours, now all I want to do is grab a quick bite and head right back out lol

I’m not changing a single thing on this bike, it’s perfect

Click to expand...

its so hilarious to read this. ,you put oversuspension but didnt even bother to fix the standard suspension on the bike.

All V4s come standard with nose pitched down too much and over-sprung rear shock, causing lots of head shake on acceleration that can be dangerous at lean.

I would suggest to check the rear spring rate, if its something ridiculous like 105, change it to 95. Second thing is to drop the forks.

panibadboy said:

its so hilarious to read this. ,you put oversuspension but didnt even bother to fix the standard suspension on the bike.

All V4s come standard with nose pitched down too much and over-sprung rear shock, causing lots of head shake on acceleration that can be dangerous at lean.

I would suggest to check the rear spring rate, if its something ridiculous like 105, change it to 95. Second thing is to drop the forks.

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Well this is why I’m here, to learn what I don’t know, hell I don’t even know enough about these bikes to know what questions to ask haha

so let’s begin there?