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roadracerx said:
Taz, adding some oil will resist bottoming. Are you a hard braker?
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Normally fairly hard, but have been easing off a bit because of the bottoming. Hopefully some extra oil will solve my issue. What are your thoughts on sag front and rear?
 
roadracerx said:
AmpForE, get the correct rear tire, the handling difference between 55 and 60 aspect ratio can be huge if not properly set up.
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I know. You have talked about this in the past. I just didn’t want to eat a set of tires for street riding.

The difference now is I’m feeling what this thing is doing and I don’t like it.
 
@AmpForE sounds like you realize you need the correct tire.

@Taz with the V4R, because stroke is 125 mm you can go to 42 mm rider sag, rear remains at 30 mm rider. The recommendation of 40 mm front and 30 mm rear is the same for ALL sport bikes UNLESS the fork has more travel. These days is it more common to have 125-130 mm.
 
roadracerx said:
@AmpForE sounds like you realize you need the correct tire.

@Taz with the V4R, because stroke is 125 mm you can go to 42 mm rider sag, rear remains at 30 mm rider. The recommendation of 40 mm front and 30 mm rear is the same for ALL sport bikes UNLESS the fork has more travel. These days is it more common to have 125-130 mm.
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Hold on now cowboy. Let’s raise the ride height 1st. Not burning a set of tires yet.
 
... hmm, the thing that strikes me as unusual in this thread is the lengths youre going to avoid "burning a set of tires"
 
CSV4 said:
... hmm, the thing that strikes me as unusual in this thread is the lengths youre going to avoid "burning a set of tires"
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Lol,

You got it like that, cash app me $500.

Can I afford it, yes, should I, no. I’m 90% street. Plus, I enjoy the process. Motorcycle suspension is really a cool art.

Mad respect to those who know what they are doing, and 99% of riders have no clue that their suspension is not set to them and their level. Years ago on my Speed Triple, I rode 3 years like that, then went to a couple guys at a race shop. $55 and they set me up. He words not mine, “Wow this is too soft, does this bike move around on you a lot?” I said, well yea. I was blown away on how much more control I had over my speed triple. That DAY, I was spinning the rear coming out of turns. At 1st it was by accident, then I could do it when I wanted. I had that much control and confidence. Before turning was pretty much a nightmare.

So yes, I’m going to make it work for me for now And along the way, I’m going to learn. Next set of tires, I will be more mindful. Corsa II’s wear slower, and it’s street miles and I’m not spinning the rear on this thing.
 
I just got a 18 v4s and I’m a big guy should I make air pressure adjustments and/or suspension adjustments? I’m in dynamic mode
 
@Ccbc all bikes benefit from proper sag but ideal tire pressure does not change based on your weight. On the V4 I recommend 33 front and 30 rear.
 
@roadracerx

I currently bounce between 210-215lbs w/o gear, so likely 240lbs with full kit. I’m guessing a 105nm rear spring for a 21 Panigale V4S. Does that sound about right?
 
@bp_SFV4 you probably need a 110 but they don't make it so the 105 from the V4R will work. You will also need stiff fork springs, start with 11.0 both sides. Set rear MEASURED preload on the shock spring at 13 mm and put 10 turns of preload on fork springs and check for BOTH proper bike and rider sag.
 
@roadracerx

Is 21141-36/105 the correct part? Its about 175mm long compared to the OEM shock spring (21040-26/85) ~160mm length.
 

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@bp_SFV4 what is most important is that the internal diameter is not too narrow and if it is any bigger that the spring collar at the bottom is sized so the spring doesn't move around. The 21141 type spring is the OEM spring type on the V4R so this will work fine. FYI, the new 2021 CBR1000RR-R has a 110 N/m spring of the same type so it is possible to get that spring should your bike sag be too little after getting 30 mm of rider sag. Get the exact length of the spring you are planning to install and then set the installed preload at no less than 10 mm. With your weight I would start at 12-13 mm. Do you know how to take the three measurements needed for sag?
 
Oh yeah, I have a Slacker V4.

The spring measures 175mm. With 13mm of installed preload that gives us 162mm.

1634356826638.png

Not much left on the top though.

1634356851957.png

I tried it on the bike. With static set at ~12mm, I get a rider sag but w/o gear, just in garage clothes, of 28mm. With the 13mm measured preload set static was about 6-8mm IIRC.

The front is soft, preload set at max then backed off a 1/4 turn static is 25-26mm and rider is 38mm, in garage clothes. So for sure stiffer springs are in order.

Now that its on the bike I don't know if its worth changing out. Its an epic pain in the ass compared to the xx99 series bikes.

I'm going to take measurements tomorrow in actual full riding gear to see how much of a difference there is.
 
@bp_SFV4 bike sag is static sag, which is the difference between bike off the ground and then re-measured with bike under its own weight. With 13 mm of installed preload on the shock spring you should have 10-15 mm of static (aka bike) sag and 30 mm rider. Did you get there? Your last message is a little confusing.
 
13mm of installed preload was a little less than 10mm static/bike sag. Rider, in street clothes was less than 30mm.
 
ok, if you don't get to 30 mm rider sag with your gear on then take a 1/2 turn off the preload and re-measure --->10 mm static sag is on the low side.

Your front maxxed out isn't ideal - I typically like to be around 7 turns in. Where are you, like 15 turns?
 

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