Gearing Change Strategy

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@Wito keep going until it feels you've passed the sweet spot!
I'm at 10.75 front, but will be going to 11 at the next circuit I'm on.
I've got a 90Nm in the shock. Started at 105.

I also found, when my bike was 'tall' (high front, high rear), quite unstable.

I’ve talking to my shop about lowering the bike overall, both front and rear from where it is, getting pushback saying they most often had to lift the bike to keep it from bottoming out with most of the race teams they worked with.
 
I’ve talking to my shop about lowering the bike overall, both front and rear from where it is, getting pushback saying they most often had to lift the bike to keep it from bottoming out with most of the race teams they worked with.

Every rider is different, and there's not one single answer. Even top WSBK and MotoGP teams throw different settings in moments before the race

Adjusting shock length, and fork extension, are both reasonably easy to do trackside! Try it yourself, and don't let people talk you out of trying stuff.

Those 'race teams' probably ride at a different pace to you too...their data is not 100% relevant to you.
 
Every rider is different, and there's not one single answer. Even top WSBK and MotoGP teams throw different settings in moments before the race

Adjusting shock length, and fork extension, are both reasonably easy to do trackside! Try it yourself, and don't let people talk you out of trying stuff.

Those 'race teams' probably ride at a different pace to you too...their data is not 100% relevant to you.

Right on thank you.

How did you like your MUPO setup compared to the Maxton?

I’ve been trying to order the MUPO carts for my forks and the rear MUPO shock for weeks now with no reply from MUPO, even had their biggest US servicer reach out and they haven’t replied to them either.

So now I’m considering going to option B which is the Ktech stuff.

But I don’t know anything about Maxton
 
Right on thank you.

How did you like your MUPO setup compared to the Maxton?

I’ve been trying to order the MUPO carts for my forks and the rear MUPO shock for weeks now with no reply from MUPO, even had their biggest US servicer reach out and they haven’t replied to them either.

So now I’m considering going to option B which is the Ktech stuff.

But I don’t know anything about Maxton

Unfortunately, as far as I know, Mupo has gone bust!

I greatly prefer the Maxton shock and cartridge kit. But changing the fork springs is a two man job, which is a bit of a ball ache. K-Tech is a fairly safe bet, and if you want to be a real gangsta, they've just launched the through rod shock and cartridge kit. And, I was speaking to a very capable rider recently, who reckons the shock is better than an Ohlins RSP40 (WSBK shock), and he has access to both.

May be bit of over kill for you, but I'm sure you'll be very happy :D

- Probably around five or six times the cost of the Maxton Kit. And the best thing about Maxton, is you can talk to their engineers, and they will give you time of day, and help you out...
 
Unfortunately, as far as I know, Mupo has gone bust!

I greatly prefer the Maxton shock and cartridge kit. But changing the fork springs is a two man job, which is a bit of a ball ache. K-Tech is a fairly safe bet, and if you want to be a real gangsta, they've just launched the through rod shock and cartridge kit. And, I was speaking to a very capable rider recently, who reckons the shock is better than an Ohlins RSP40 (WSBK shock), and he has access to both.

May be bit of over kill for you, but I'm sure you'll be very happy :D

- Probably around five or six times the cost of the Maxton Kit. And the best thing about Maxton, is you can talk to their engineers, and they will give you time of day, and help you out...

Yeah when I talked to the MUPO guy in Texas that services them he was big on their stuff but said lead time is horrible and he found out a key guy left the company…usually how those things go the guy who left will start a new thing lol

I messaged Maxton, sounds like the way to go, you been steering me right all along.

I’m complicated for suspension setup, I’m heavy, have that extended swingarm, and linear shock length, and the tracks I run on have both technical and bumpy sections which is hard to square with most suspension setups

I’m also a rapidly improving rider so my pace while slow now is improving by 10 to 15 seconds a lap with every track weekend so I need something forward looking but not too much for where I am now.
 
Unfortunately, as far as I know, Mupo has gone bust!

I greatly prefer the Maxton shock and cartridge kit. But changing the fork springs is a two man job, which is a bit of a ball ache. K-Tech is a fairly safe bet, and if you want to be a real gangsta, they've just launched the through rod shock and cartridge kit. And, I was speaking to a very capable rider recently, who reckons the shock is better than an Ohlins RSP40 (WSBK shock), and he has access to both.

May be bit of over kill for you, but I'm sure you'll be very happy :D

- Probably around five or six times the cost of the Maxton Kit. And the best thing about Maxton, is you can talk to their engineers, and they will give you time of day, and help you out...

When I've researched Ktech vs Ohlins, Ktech is better quality kit at the consumer/prosumer level especially when it comes down to materials and finishing anodization. The downside in the States is that Ohlins is more popular and not a lot of suspension tuners know how to set up Ktech
 
When I've researched Ktech vs Ohlins, Ktech is better quality kit at the consumer/prosumer level especially when it comes down to materials and finishing anodization. The downside in the States is that Ohlins is more popular and not a lot of suspension tuners know how to set up Ktech

The adjusters turn the same way on most kit. Then, the tuner just needs to listen to the rider...
 
The adjusters turn the same way on most kit. Then, the tuner just needs to listen to the rider...

Some don't understand what each click does and how it affects things. The tuner needs to take rider input and what the tire looks like to know what to do next. There's still a dark art to suspension setup, which gets darker as you go quicker. I mean if it just came down to listening to the rider, you'd just need an app and some algorithms to sort things out.
 
Some don't understand what each click does and how it affects things. The tuner needs to take rider input and what the tire looks like to know what to do next. There's still a dark art to suspension setup, which gets darker as you go quicker. I mean if it just came down to listening to the rider, you'd just need an app and some algorithms to sort

So being able to access their engineers is a huge plus for me

I spoke with a friend, he's 93kg naked, and also has the extended swingarm. He's a very good, fast, rider. He's running a 115Nm spring, and has also tried 120Nm.
Whomever you buy from, it would be worth getting a range of springs at the same time.

Also, don't be afraid to run the wheelbase shorter, even if it means going back to a stock swingarm, potentially for a tighter circuit.

When you push the rear wheel further backwards, you also take weight off it (for the same ride height). This reduces traction, especially when lent over, where traction is at a premium. I've been running 590mm wheelbase at tighter circuits, and 605mm at faster, more flowing circuits.
 
Another variable: changing wheelbase changes rear ride height.
And another one: changing gearing changes squat/anti-squat.
 
When I've researched Ktech vs Ohlins, Ktech is better quality kit at the consumer/prosumer level especially when it comes down to materials and finishing anodization. The downside in the States is that Ohlins is more popular and not a lot of suspension tuners know how to set up Ktech

I heard thats because they nicked and copied the ohlins tech......
 
Another variable: changing wheelbase changes rear ride height.
And another one: changing gearing changes squat/anti-squat.

I have a ride height tool and adjust shock length to compensate.

I don't notice any difference in antisquat/squat (terms I don't usually refer to). I'm not 100% sure if the ride height corrects this, as obviously the swingarm is at a different angle, or maybe it isn't. But the axle is located differently in the hub, so angle of thrust must be different. You can certainly dive very deep on setup with this swingarm. My 2016 ZX10R was the same, change of wheelbase effected geometry/ride height, but my S1000RR it didn't.
 

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