Yup, you need spacers!
I'm pretty sure it looks like they should be about 0.125" thick,... I'll see if I can find them somewhere to order them. Unless you have some laying around...
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I'm pretty sure it looks like they should be about 0.125" thick,... I'll see if I can find them somewhere to order them. Unless you have some laying around...
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Your not going to paint the fairings?
jarelj
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I'm pretty sure it looks like they should be about 0.125" thick,... I'll see if I can find them somewhere to order them. Unless you have some laying around...
I have some lying around.....
I am, but for as much as I paid for these, and as long as I've waited I expected top notch quality.
So, I'm test fitting all the panels. The rear went together amazingly.
The nose fairing mounts perfectly,... but I have a significant gap between the ram air holes, and the ram air ducts. Anyone have a solution for this? Do the ram air ducts have to be trimmed? It's the motoholders race fairing stay with ram air ducts. Take a look at these photos and you'll see the gaps.
The belly pan was fairly easy. I've read horror stories on here about how much of a pain in the ass it can be to install the belly pan, but honestly, after I cut the lower radiator tab off, it was easy. I 3d printed my own mount that mounts to the front exhaust attachment point to hold the belly pan on. Everything worked out really well. Looking forward to getting the exhaust all mounted up and giving life to this beast!!
The nose fairing mounts perfectly,... but I have a significant gap between the ram air holes, and the ram air ducts. Anyone have a solution for this? Do the ram air ducts have to be trimmed? It's the motoholders race fairing stay with ram air ducts. Take a look at these photos and you'll see the gaps.
The belly pan was fairly easy. I've read horror stories on here about how much of a pain in the ass it can be to install the belly pan, but honestly, after I cut the lower radiator tab off, it was easy. I 3d printed my own mount that mounts to the front exhaust attachment point to hold the belly pan on. Everything worked out really well. Looking forward to getting the exhaust all mounted up and giving life to this beast!!
Well, I've gotta say,.. these fairings are a little subpar in the finish department,... but they fit beautifully. All pre-drilled holes were spot on.
I had a chance to take it out of the shop and get some sunlight on the carbon. Beautiful. Almost thinking of not painting it. Let me know what you guys think:
I had a chance to take it out of the shop and get some sunlight on the carbon. Beautiful. Almost thinking of not painting it. Let me know what you guys think:
I do still have quite the "to-do" list before calling this a successful build:
- Tighten Fwd Header
- Place heat shield on oil cooler
- Install Temp Sensor
- Safety wire oil drain plug
- Finish mounting exhaust cans (Rear support not lining up to mounting holes)
- Buy & Install 1199 ECU (turns out the 899 ECU won't even start the 1199 engine)
- Install Termi Up-Map
- Install RapidBike Race
- Drill & rivet zeus fasteners to nose fairing
- Figure out issue with significant gap where ram air ducts meet nose fairing
- Design and 3D print low profile brake and clutch reservoir brackets
- Buy M18-1.5 tap & tap threads into right bar end for fullsix carbon brake guard
- Check fuel sensor wiring (getting fuel sensor caution)
- Install rotor spacers
- Install & bleed from calipers
- Bleed rear caliper
- Burp coolant
- Safety wire radiator cap
If ANYONE can help with the gap between the ram air ducts and the nose fairing I would really appreciate it. If anyone has had this problem before? I would like to not just duct tape the gap, I would like to find a good solution.
- Tighten Fwd Header
- Place heat shield on oil cooler
- Install Temp Sensor
- Safety wire oil drain plug
- Finish mounting exhaust cans (Rear support not lining up to mounting holes)
- Buy & Install 1199 ECU (turns out the 899 ECU won't even start the 1199 engine)
- Install Termi Up-Map
- Install RapidBike Race
- Drill & rivet zeus fasteners to nose fairing
- Figure out issue with significant gap where ram air ducts meet nose fairing
- Design and 3D print low profile brake and clutch reservoir brackets
- Buy M18-1.5 tap & tap threads into right bar end for fullsix carbon brake guard
- Check fuel sensor wiring (getting fuel sensor caution)
- Install rotor spacers
- Install & bleed from calipers
- Bleed rear caliper
- Burp coolant
- Safety wire radiator cap
If ANYONE can help with the gap between the ram air ducts and the nose fairing I would really appreciate it. If anyone has had this problem before? I would like to not just duct tape the gap, I would like to find a good solution.
I don't know about the nose fairing spacing but was curious if installing the Termi up-map is redundant since you're putting on a rapid bike unit?
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Interesting,.... anyone know if I'd be wasting my time? Good point, and to be totally honest, the RapidBike race will be a totally new thing for me. I've got the RapidBike EVO on my street 899, and it's easy because it's just install, let it do it's thing and forget about it. Having the ability to change maps and tune with the race module will be completely over my head. Maybe someone has some insight into setting up the RapidBike race?
Ok, it’s been quite a while, and it’s pretty much only because I’ve been working 7 days a week and just haven’t had time to get back to the beast. So, the past few days I’ve been working my ass off on the bike because the first track day is the 27th and I’ve gotta make it.
So, overall, this nags are good. The beast is running and I’m working out some minor kinks.
First problem, the bike doesn’t want to stay running when in gear. Even if I give it a little throttle it runs really rough. I’m not sure if this is because of the ABS and DTC being confused when the bike is running while on the rear stand? I’m going to try turning off all electronic stuff tomorrow and see if that helps.
Second problem, the clutch doesn’t seem to dis-engage fully. Clutch fully pulled in, the rear tire still spins.... fast. I’ve got brand new Barnett Kevlar clutch plates in this thing, so I’m th8nking they may just be extra “grippy”?
Third problem, my rear speed sensor is contacting the abs ring. I’ve gotta make some shims to get the sensor away from the ring. Shouldn’t be a big problem.
Fourth problem, the bike randomly thinks it’s doing 5, then 1, then 8, then 3 mph. Don’t know why. It’s not in gear when it’s doing this. Just idling. And the speed is jumping all over.
There’s more. I know there’s more. But I’m tired and smell like exhaust.
If anyone can give some pointers I’d appreciate it.
Oh,... and what does a green wrench with -8100 mean when the key is turned on?
So, overall, this nags are good. The beast is running and I’m working out some minor kinks.
First problem, the bike doesn’t want to stay running when in gear. Even if I give it a little throttle it runs really rough. I’m not sure if this is because of the ABS and DTC being confused when the bike is running while on the rear stand? I’m going to try turning off all electronic stuff tomorrow and see if that helps.
Second problem, the clutch doesn’t seem to dis-engage fully. Clutch fully pulled in, the rear tire still spins.... fast. I’ve got brand new Barnett Kevlar clutch plates in this thing, so I’m th8nking they may just be extra “grippy”?
Third problem, my rear speed sensor is contacting the abs ring. I’ve gotta make some shims to get the sensor away from the ring. Shouldn’t be a big problem.
Fourth problem, the bike randomly thinks it’s doing 5, then 1, then 8, then 3 mph. Don’t know why. It’s not in gear when it’s doing this. Just idling. And the speed is jumping all over.
There’s more. I know there’s more. But I’m tired and smell like exhaust.
If anyone can give some pointers I’d appreciate it.
Oh,... and what does a green wrench with -8100 mean when the key is turned on?
Alright, so problem 3 and 4 from the post above are solved. I made a .087" thick spacer to properly gap the rear wheel speed sensor. No more contact and no more crazy bouncing speed on the dash.
2nd problem seems to be the new clutch and just simple clutch drag. no biggie
New problems: I was able to take the bike around the block for two laps. It was running REALLY rough and surging and lurching. Then I got back to the shop and it just cut out.
Now it doesn't start at all. Turns over, but won't fire off.
So, I've pulled the plugs, they look good. Tested to make sure they're getting spark and they are. Sprayed starter fluid directly into the throttle bodies, with the plugs reinstalled and still no start. So it's not a fuel problem or spark problem.
This is puzzling. It's getting fuel, getting spark, getting air and has good compression. This is everything any 4-stroke motor needs to run. So on to sensors....
I swapped in known-good MAP sensors,... no start
Thinking timing could be the culprit, I swapped a known-good crank position sensor... no start.
My LAST attempt will be this afternoon. I'm going to put in a known-good voltage regulator, known-good coils and known good plug wires.
If anyone else has any ideas please let me know. If this doesn't work I'm trailer-ing it to a dealer to interrogate the ECU. Downfall is that my closest dealer is over two hours away.
2nd problem seems to be the new clutch and just simple clutch drag. no biggie
New problems: I was able to take the bike around the block for two laps. It was running REALLY rough and surging and lurching. Then I got back to the shop and it just cut out.
Now it doesn't start at all. Turns over, but won't fire off.
So, I've pulled the plugs, they look good. Tested to make sure they're getting spark and they are. Sprayed starter fluid directly into the throttle bodies, with the plugs reinstalled and still no start. So it's not a fuel problem or spark problem.
This is puzzling. It's getting fuel, getting spark, getting air and has good compression. This is everything any 4-stroke motor needs to run. So on to sensors....
I swapped in known-good MAP sensors,... no start
Thinking timing could be the culprit, I swapped a known-good crank position sensor... no start.
My LAST attempt will be this afternoon. I'm going to put in a known-good voltage regulator, known-good coils and known good plug wires.
If anyone else has any ideas please let me know. If this doesn't work I'm trailer-ing it to a dealer to interrogate the ECU. Downfall is that my closest dealer is over two hours away.
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- Mid Nth Coast NSW
Do you have the rapidbike on yet?
I guess not because you probably would have mentioned it.
I guess not because you probably would have mentioned it.
I actually have installed it already. Is there any way to use it to diagnose the problem?
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Have you plugged Rapid Bike into computer via USB? If so does it look ok? If I had to guess it could be Rapid Bike or ECU/BlackBox or possibly Fuel Pump.
I had major clutch drag when I installed a slipper clutch, turns out the Plates were in the wrong order. Once the plates were shuffled around; I have no clutch drag at all anymore.
I had major clutch drag when I installed a slipper clutch, turns out the Plates were in the wrong order. Once the plates were shuffled around; I have no clutch drag at all anymore.
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- Mid Nth Coast NSW
I'd disconnect it, remember it's an alien you've added so may be the problem.
Alright, got the beast running again. I ended up disconnecting all the RapidBike connections, disconnecting the battery for about an hour, then hooked the battery back up and started it without the RapidBike hooked up. I had it idling for a good while. Idled smooth, but would be very rough and VERY "jumpy" in gear riding around the parking lot. Like CRAZY jumpy.
I hooked the RapidBike back up and tried everything again,... same story. VERY jumpy with the throttle barely cracked open to do about 10-15 mph around the parking lot.
I hooked my laptop up to the rapidbike to take a look at the map, but I honestly don't have a clue what I'm looking at with that thing.
I am going to try to video whats going on tomorrow (it started raining here) and post it up here. Maybe someone here can help me out a little better if you guys can see whats going on?
I hooked the RapidBike back up and tried everything again,... same story. VERY jumpy with the throttle barely cracked open to do about 10-15 mph around the parking lot.
I hooked my laptop up to the rapidbike to take a look at the map, but I honestly don't have a clue what I'm looking at with that thing.
I am going to try to video whats going on tomorrow (it started raining here) and post it up here. Maybe someone here can help me out a little better if you guys can see whats going on?
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- Jan 27, 2015
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- 637
- Location
- Australia
Might need a throttle reset.
Is this something I can do myself?
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