Hybrid 899 Track-only Build

DStyleNZL said:

Might need a throttle reset.

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Is this something I can do myself?

JarHead said:

Is this something I can do myself?

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Melcodiag and correct ODBII scanner/cable says it can do.

I've used this to clear service light and engine codes but havnt used the TB reset myself yet.

DStyleNZL said:

Melcodiag and correct ODBII scanner/cable says it can do.

I've used this to clear service light and engine codes but havnt used the TB reset myself yet.

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Thanks for the tip! I did some research and managed to find this post on another forum:

MelcoDiag - ducati.org forum | the home for ducati owners and enthusiasts

Pretty detailed on what all is needed and how to get it all setup.

I've ordered the required cables, and am going to give this a go.

The bike right now is running extremely rich. I keep carbon fouling the horizontal plug. The only good thing that has come out of this is that I've become a champ at changing that horizontal plug out in less than 10mins.

What ECU are you running? the 1199s one?

DStyleNZL said:

What ECU are you running? the 1199s one?

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1199s with a rexxer tune.... I've reached out to Chris at BrenTuning to see if they can over-write it.

....... Stumped... and Pissed

So, I know it seems I’ve lost a lot of followers on this thread, but I’m really hoping some of you come back to read this one single post...

I am absolutely ....... stumped.... as some of you might have read above I’ve been having some issues with the build. I’ve already missed 3 track days, and this weekend is another that I’d REALLY like to make.

So, here’s the problem so some of you don’t have to go scrolling....

The bike idles perfect, starts perfect, and runs great but only at idle. As soon as I give it the slightest amount of throttle, it starts sputtering and jumping and kicking like crazy. I thought that maybe this could be an issue with having the bike on a rear stand and having the rear wheel spinning, so I turned off all ABS, DTC, and EBC. Problem persists. I tried riding the bike around,... and it’s like riding a ....... bucking bronco.... jerky as hell, when trying to barely give it any gas.

So, what have I done? Thinking it was an ignition issue I changed the following:
- Coils
- Voltage Regulator
- Plugs (multiple multiple MULTIPLE times)
- Plug Wires

Thinking it’s a fuel problem I changed the following:
- Fuel (thinking I got bad gas)
- Fuel Pump
- Injectors
- Throttle Bodies
- Throttle Body Wiring harness
- Took the tank off my 899 which runs GREAT,... no fix
- Just today reset the TPS,... no fix
- Reset trouble codes,... no fix

The bike absolutely is getting fuel, absolutely is getting spark and getting plenty of air.

So, I started swapping sensors...
- Both MAP sensors
- Crank position sensor
- Gear selection sensor
- Inlet air temp sensor
- Coolant temp sensor
- Both front and rear speed sensors
- Both oxygen sensors

I am totally ....... lost, depressed, pissed, stumped, baffled, pissed, boggled, confused, pissed, and did I say pissed?....

The ONLY thing left that I can even possibly think would be an issue is the main wiring harness. I’ve got Jarel quoting a BSD race harness for my setup, but I’ve inspected my harness and it’s mint!

If ANYONE has a single CLUE what might be going on here please do tell.... I’m on my knees begging for guidance.

I’m home now, drinking heavily in frustration, but tomorrow I will take a screen shot of the fuel curves and ignition curve from the RapidBike race software. I’ll also video what’s going on and see if someone has had a similar problem.

Keep in mind, all parts that were used and purchased from eBay have been switched out with known good parts from a running bike that I own and know all the history of. I just don’t get it.... this thing should run AMAZIGNLY AWESOME... yet here I am.....

Update to this build thread with what I'm having trouble with:

Alright,
This is going to be a long post, but I want to make sure I'm getting every detail I can out to the group.

Here are screen shots of my RB maps, and the status screen:

These first three are the ignition map screen. The first image is with key on, not running. The second image is at idle, and the third is with 25% throttle. Keep in mind that at 25% idle the bike is running like total .....








These three images are going to be of CIL1 Injection. Same as before, first image is key on, not running. Second image is at idle, and third image is with 25% throttle.









These three images are of CIL2 Injection. Key on / not running, then idle, then 25%







The next three images are the status page, again key on /not running, idle, and 25%







These are the rest of the screens, all with key on / not running. 1st image is Auto Adaptivity, 2nd image is TC-LC and 3rd is Quick-Shifter. I have not touched any setting at all since I bought the RB Race module from a forum member.








I mention in the video that I was monitoring exhaust temps to see that both cylinders were firing. This is a shot of what I was doing. Basically blade taped a thermocouple to each header, right where the O2 sensors are located to make sure they were both at the same distance from the head.



Obviously that image is before running the bike as both pipes are at ambient temp. But watching both temps rise evenly with each other shows that both cylinders are firing. For example if one had rose to 400F and the other remained at 180F that would mean there is an issue with one of the cylinders not firing.

Alright, now lets look at the BrenTuning module. I used this to monitor TPS position as well as resetting the TPS. When the throttle is closed it shows 3 degrees, when wide open it shows 22 degrees. This is with the key on, not running. I actually did not manage to take a photo of this while the bike was running. I'll try to get a shot of that tomorrow.





The next shot is the trouble codes on the bike, just so everyone can see that the only two present after running and riding around the parking lot are in fact for the ECU not matching the Dash as posted previously.



And finally, another forum member suggested checking the clutch master cylinder micro switch. He stated that he had similar problems and found that a constant ground in the micro switch was to fault. I tested it,... when the clutch is not depressed, it's an open line as it should be, and when fully pulled in, as soon as the micro switch is engaged there is continuity in the circuit.









So, enough for this long post. I'm uploading the videos right now. Please keep the suggestions coming.

And again, I am absolutely not up with all the tuning tech and am a total ..... when it comes to fuel/ignition maps. There are folks on here that are geniuses when it comes to this. If you guys see something fishy with the maps please let me know. Thank you.

Videos:

[youtube]xmYv47AlFac[/youtube]

[youtube]Oh3bCL-Kgtg[/youtube]

Thanks for taking a look at these videos, I know the video is shaky, and the sound sucks, but what can you expect from an old iPhone?

Thanks for the help guys....

You should call Jarel from Ducati Omaha, as he’s the only one I know who’s done something like this. Maybe send him your bike if it’s possible at all?

Are you still running any 899 kit? Bbs?

Did you mix up the vertical and horizontal injectors, easy check - the leads are labeled V and H

Are the map sensors attached to the port under the TB? Are the other ports for emissions on the other side capped off?

^^^ spam

^^^^. Seriously? Dude, be a paying advertiser like a reputable company.

Redline Moto said:

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#hurtin


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Any updates??

I have the exact issue on my 1199s race-bike. exact issue. I brought it to the dealer Saturday. I will let you know what the problem is. Like you I also put new plugs in and messed with wires and flipping coil packs. My theory was that the coil pack was fine at low rpm until cylinder pressure went up and then the spark would stop. The dealer thinks its a clogged lower injector. The only difference between your stumble and mine was that mine would not rev past 5k at all.

Have you tried removing Rapid Bike?
Also I remember reading somewhere that you shouldn't have the "start correction" that low in Rapid Bike. I think I run mine at 2500 or 3k RPM.

mattyrich said:

Have you tried removing Rapid Bike?
Also I remember reading somewhere that you shouldn't have the "start correction" that low in Rapid Bike. I think I run mine at 2500 or 3k RPM.

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If you are going down this route, you can save yourself some time by using the
RB bypass plug. They are around 40 euros over here and while it doesnt take
their loom out of the equation, its 30 seconds to unplug the RB box from their harness and plug in the bypass blank.

990Glen said:

If you are going down this route, you can save yourself some time by using the
RB bypass plug. They are around 40 euros over here and while it doesnt take
their loom out of the equation, its 30 seconds to unplug the RB box from their harness and plug in the bypass blank.

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I didn't know they had a bypass plug. That seems like a good thing to have in the tool box.....

Only thing I can sugguest.

Remove the RB system.
Get a untouched ECU.

was the bike loom from another bike?

The fuel pump primes and shuts off during key on? (maybe have tank/pump filter blockage?)

I didn't forget about you. Bike is still at the dealer with the same described symptoms. They suspect the bike is loosing fuel pressure inside of the tank. Did you inspect your high pressure line coming off of the pump? Mine looks fine but looks can be deceiving. They are waiting for a tool to try swapping tanks to rule out the issue.