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Prakash said:
I also had trouble once the r just switched off in the middle of nowhere.then I checked the fuel and it was empty.moral of the story don't always blame the bike.Did you run it in properly like did you read the manual and follow all the instructions and warnings?if not then you shouldn't blame. The bike.you have to run it in for 2500kms and not 1000kms.
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:eek:
 
Stw said:
Which dealership was this???
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Probably Cross County Cycle in NJ. Biggest group of .........s on the planet. I wouldn't let them install a lightbulb in my home after watching a 3 minute instructional video 10 times prior.

On that note. Mark take your bike to Trebour in Ledgewood. Nice people who have done right by me so far in my ducati experience. No Bull when buying as well.
 
The run-in is 1500 miles. until then it has to stay under 7K rpms. No I don't think they redline the engine at the factory, urban myth, I think. After watching some production videos I dont' see them beating it up like they do on dyno run-ins.
BTW, I believed once you get the bugs worked out successfully, the bike will perform like it was designed to and for a long while. JMO
 
^ I'd have to respectfully disagree. I think most engines today have temperature and rpm minimums they have to meet for quality control, and I have a hard time seeing that minimum as only half the rev range. I also believe in the motoman hard break in method, contrary to what most manufactures suggest. They recommend a soft break in to cover their ....., not ensure maximum performance. Besides, with today's tolerances and machining, break in is fully completed within 20 miles of varied rpms let alone 1500.
 
Ashes said:
^ I'd have to respectfully disagree. I think most engines today have temperature and rpm minimums they have to meet for quality control, and I have a hard time seeing that minimum as only half the rev range. I also believe in the motoman hard break in method, contrary to what most manufactures suggest. They recommend a soft break in to cover their ....., not ensure maximum performance. Besides, with today's tolerances and machining, break in is fully completed within 20 miles of varied rpms let alone 1500.
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Best to run this one in a little gentle . I would suggest 1500 miles excessive but maybe treat it gentle for half of that and few decent heat cycles
The wet liners and big pistons on this motor need to be bed in well before giving it a flogging .
 
Fragile said:
The run-in is 1500 miles. until then it has to stay under 7K rpms. No I don't think they redline the engine at the factory, urban myth, I think. After watching some production videos I dont' see them beating it up like they do on dyno run-ins.
BTW, I believed once you get the bugs worked out successfully, the bike will perform like it was designed to and for a long while. JMO
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I think staying under 7k rpm is bs and I just ride my bike as normal granted I don't redline it for the first 600 miles but I certainly don't baby it. After 600mikes and an oil and filter change I ride it as hard as I want and have never had any issues.
 
wilkson said:
I agree some people should not own Ducat's you seem to be one .
Your about to make a fourth mistake the R1 .Get a Zx10 instead
You guys have either had .... all to do with bikes or just got lucky with past purchase .
Every bike I have owned has some issue no matter what brand including cars .
I just get the issue fixed and move on instead of crying over first world issues .
You and Mark .... me .
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I'm largely with you on this.
Only they don't actually .... me (yet), but I'm a bit disappointed in their incessant whining.

To Mark and White, I say with reference to a quote by Gunny Highway in Heartbreak Ridge, "You will adapt, improvise and overcome".

Sorry:(
 
wilkson said:
Best to run this one in a little gentle . I would suggest 1500 miles excessive but maybe treat it gentle for half of that and few decent heat cycles
The wet liners and big pistons on this motor need to be bed in well before giving it a flogging .
Click to expand...

Not to mention it'd most likely void the warranty? Did anyone confirm revs above 6k during break in are recorded? Likely, considering it logs how frequently you sneeze.
 
been out of the loop for a while...but will jump in a little late however to state that mark419ny is probably one of the purest enthusiasts of the brand and sport I've known thus far...He has put every ounce of his soul into wanting to love this bike. (can't count the hours we spent chatting about even the smallest nuances of the bike and ownership)

I don't really know anyone else who I can say that about. After all of the shortcomings he's had to face; his enthusiasm remains strong. I sure hope his incoming HP4 rewards him after so much angst and unrequited love from the brand.

I'm still gonna smoke his beemer with my R ;-)
 
wilkson said:
Best to run this one in a little gentle . I would suggest 1500 miles excessive but maybe treat it gentle for half of that and few decent heat cycles
The wet liners and big pistons on this motor need to be bed in well before giving it a flogging .
Click to expand...

FWIW, I babied my S on break in...had the usual start up fogging there after.

decided to wring the R out like i did my race cars right out of the box....surprise result: not a puff of smoke in over 2500 miles...not even a wisp.

the hard run in on these does not seem to have caused mine any issues...not a solitary drop of oil either..go figure
 
RSR racer said:
FWIW, I babied my S on break in...had the usual start up fogging there after.

decided to wring the R out like i did my race cars right out of the box....surprise result: not a puff of smoke in over 2500 miles...not even a wisp.

the hard run in on these does not seem to have caused mine any issues...not a solitary drop of oil either..go figure
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Every ones different . I usually with all my race bikes do the same on good advice by someone I trust I did this one a little different in fact both my Pani's .
I want to get the most out of my motors in the short term I doubt it will make a difference .
Got on the phone with my tech for a more detailed explanation . To him the size of the pistons is the main concern and scuffing the bores he said it is really difficult to seal a piston of that size to prevent blow back and loss of power as the motor gets older .
He also said getting a piston of that size to heat up and expand takes time . The new 1199 SL have one oil ring and one compression he said this will make better power with less friction but the motors will still smoke . My Desmosedici did the same .
So in reality we are comparing apples with oranges on how you usually break in a motor .
So your motor will be fine in the short term but in the long term not so great .
 
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RSR racer said:
FWIW, I babied my S on break in...had the usual start up fogging there after.

decided to wring the R out like i did my race cars right out of the box....surprise result: not a puff of smoke in over 2500 miles...not even a wisp.

the hard run in on these does not seem to have caused mine any issues...not a solitary drop of oil either..go figure
Click to expand...

wilkson said:
Every ones different . I usually with all my race bikes do the same on good advice by someone I trust I did this one a little different in fact both my Pani's .
I want to get the most out of my motors in the short term I doubt it will make a difference .
Got on the phone with my tech for a more detailed explanation . To him the size of the pistons is the main concern and scuffing the bores he said it is really difficult to seal a piston of that size to prevent blow back and loss of power as the motor gets older .
He also said getting a piston of that size to heat up and expand takes time . The new 1199 SL have one oil ring and one compression he said this will make better power with less friction but the motors will still smoke . My Desmosedici did the same .
So in reality we are comparing apples with oranges on how you usually break in a motor .
So your motor will be fine in the short term but in the long term not so great .
Click to expand...

I can see both sides of the argument and both have valid points. While I agree larger pistons/rings have more surface area to seal and should be babied to avoid potential damage, I believe hard beak in's to be more effective and I question any negative affect it would bring later on down the road.

Meaning, if a soft break in truly leads to blow by, low compression, smoking, who knows what other problems up front, you will most likely have those issues for the life of the engine. I doubt its ability to improve with time regardless if it was done "safely." On the same note, if a hard break in genuinely does create a more effective seal, thus eliminating the afore mentioned problems, albeit at the expense of scuffing/marring, I dont think you would see that seal deteriorate from prolonged use any faster than normal.
 
Ashes said:
I can see both sides of the argument and both have valid points. While I agree larger pistons/rings have more surface area to seal and should be babied to avoid potential damage, I believe hard beak in's to be more effective and I question any negative affect it would bring later on down the road.

Meaning, if a soft break in truly leads to blow by, low compression, smoking, who knows what other problems up front, you will most likely have those issues for the life of the engine. I doubt its ability to improve with time regardless if it was done "safely." On the same note, if a hard break in genuinely does create a more effective seal, thus eliminating the afore mentioned problems, albeit at the expense of scuffing/marring, I dont think you would see that seal deteriorate from prolonged use any faster than normal.
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It's not really a argument but just advice from a guy who I trust with 30 years of building Ducati race motors ..
I would rather break the bike in on a Dyno and go out racing .
 

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