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Thanks dude.. How is the install? PITA? lol
- Joined
- Jul 3, 2015
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- 377
- Location
- Lebanon, TN....Lincoln, UK originally
The install was pretty straight forward, although there were no instructions. The kit includes all the bodywork, fasteners and electrical block off's.
As I took each OEM panel off, I just applied the corresponding fasteners to the new panel.
The IMU took about 15 minutes to figure out as that was a little different than what's on the bike, but it ends up mounting in exactly the same spot and orientation.
As I took each OEM panel off, I just applied the corresponding fasteners to the new panel.
The IMU took about 15 minutes to figure out as that was a little different than what's on the bike, but it ends up mounting in exactly the same spot and orientation.
Chris,
Do you know if the various aftermarket belly pan options will work with the DP fairings?
- Joined
- Jul 3, 2015
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- 377
- Location
- Lebanon, TN....Lincoln, UK originally
If they work with the OEM side panels, then they should work, but when I bought my DP stuff, there was nothing on the market for the 1299 in the USA.
I would have liked mohave bought SharkSkinz, like I have on my 1098, but they couldn't give me a timeframe of when they would start to make this.
I'm kind of happy with the DP stuff as I can use that on the street as well. I just swapped over from track to street, i.e. put my OEM headlight, Taillight and indicators back on, took me about 90 minutes, taking my time, but all went on nicely.
- Joined
- Jul 3, 2015
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- 377
- Location
- Lebanon, TN....Lincoln, UK originally
They were PPG paints, my buddy works at the paint supplier and got me the colors. The White was a Nissan white and the Green was a Porsche green.
Initially he mixed me a Ducati red which turned out to be the red used on the MotoGP bikes, circa 2013. It was a little orange'y red. He then got a friend to lend him a side panel off a Panigale and color matched it ( I was in Dallas, TX and he was in Nashville, TN).
He gave me the MotoGP red, as he had no use for it, so I plan on painting my yellow Tuono V4 with it later this year.
I'll see if he still has the color codes for the red.
I sprayed an adhesion promotor, then a white primer, followed by the white base coat, the red base coat, the green highlights, applied then decals and then the clear coat.
All was very easy until the clear coat. This takes a bit of practice to get nice wet coat on that flows without getting runs.
The clear coat overspray kind of hangs in the air and makes the paint booth very foggy inside, so you have to judge how much you are putting on more from time and number of spray passes than actually being able to see it clearly. It also doesn't help that my full face respirator mask also get covered with the overspray.
- Joined
- Jul 3, 2015
- Messages
- 377
- Location
- Lebanon, TN....Lincoln, UK originally
My logic when I started was, I can get paint on, but I may not be good enough to lay a decent clear coat to finish.
I figured I could put plenty of clear coat on, but if it looked like crap, I wet and dry it and take it to professional to blow a final clear coat on.
It didn't come to that. I did buff/polish out a few orange peel sections, but I doubt I spent more than about 5 minutes on any one panel.
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