Stick with stock exhaust?

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spdklz said:
i would not like living in a place that had issues with loud exhaust pipes. All of my bikes are loud..hell, my custom chopper only has 24 inches of exhaust that dump down right near the motor....talk about loud on a sunday morning :)

however, i am courteous to my neighbors and they all are fine with me and my toys.
Click to expand...

+1
 
:)I don't mind it when a vehicle shows it true voice, like a Ducati, Harley or Ferrari...but some people take it too far,modded Harley's with open short pipes are obnoxious by any standard except to their owners. Just ugly ear piercing noise you can hear from miles away, and they barely move. Public masterbation. :)
 
I finally had the chance to hear the S/ABS with full Termi's on it the other day. HOLY CRAP was it LOUD!! I was standing behind the bike and looking at something else when the dealer started the bike. It literally startled the crap out of me. I could not believe how loud it was. I couldnt even have a conversation with someone while it was running. When he started twisting the throttle I just about pooped myself. It was such a beautiful sound.

I have yet to hear the stock pipes yet to compare, but holy crap the full Termi's were loud. Surprisingly loud.
 
I sprung for the Termi slip on's until Akra comes out with a full Evo TI set. As mentioned earlier, they probably won't be too hard to sell at a later date. I really just wanted that butterfly valve gone and an improved map. I also imagine the full set from Akra won't be much more than the Termi slip-ons lol.
 
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Would disconnecting the cables from the exhaust valve take care of the fueling problem at 4500 rpm?
 
fireman1251 said:
Would disconnecting the cables from the exhaust valve take care of the fueling problem at 4500 rpm?
Click to expand...

Hard to say.

If its caused by the restriction to gas flow then yes.

If its caused by fuelling then no.

Tell you what though, it's worth a play and test ride round the block.
 
fireman1251 said:
Would disconnecting the cables from the exhaust valve take care of the fueling problem at 4500 rpm?
Click to expand...

I think disconnecting the valve cables will fix this problem, I did on my 1198...

Keep in mind though that only disconnecting the cables will still trigger a fault that you'll see on your dash. And tho this doesn't void you warrantee (my tech gave me the ok), that amber fault light gets annoyinh to look at lol.

what you can do to clear the fault is turn key to on (fault light present), turn it back off then on again then start bike...fault light be cleared and if you do ever have an actual engine fault, the amber light will still work.

To avoid doing the above method everytime you start up, you can spend the time to rig it so the actuator motor still works and thinks its open/closing valve. This will prevent any fault lights and your valve remain wide open (even more BEAUTIFUL SOUND from stock pipes)

You can take it an even further step (which I plan to do) by totally removing the exhaust valve motor and cables all together and your valve remains open (spring loaded ;).

Now I am not certain that that won't cause a fault...hopefully my tech would be willing to clear it for me somehow...maybe the same way they get rid of the assembly when they install termis. I know when they load the new mapping it knows the valve motor has been removed/disconnected.
 
DUCENZO said:
I think disconnecting the valve cables will fix this problem, I did on my 1198...

Keep in mind though that only disconnecting the cables will still trigger a fault that you'll see on your dash. And tho this doesn't void you warrantee (my tech gave me the ok), that amber fault light gets annoyinh to look at lol.

what you can do to clear the fault is turn key to on (fault light present), turn it back off then on again then start bike...fault light be cleared and if you do ever have an actual engine fault, the amber light will still work.

To avoid doing the above method everytime you start up, you can spend the time to rig it so the actuator motor still works and thinks its open/closing valve. This will prevent any fault lights and your valve remain wide open (even more BEAUTIFUL SOUND from stock pipes)

You can take it an even further step (which I plan to do) by totally removing the exhaust valve motor and cables all together and your valve remains open (spring loaded ;).

Now I am not certain that that won't cause a fault...hopefully my tech would be willing to clear it for me somehow...maybe the same way they get rid of the assembly when they install termis. I know when they load the new mapping it knows the valve motor has been removed/disconnected.
Click to expand...

The Termi's come with a dongle that plugs into the wiring harness, just like the item mentioned here. Gotta be worth a go for $100!
 
I'm sorry I haven't written on here since I've gotten my Pani S but have to say the stock exhaust is PHUCKING LOUD and sounds amazing...

There, I had to say it. I'm sure as I rack on the miles it'll be louder. On that note, I don't want to be the guy pulling up at a light and in some super rare occasion have another Pani pull next to me and outclass my Duc...

I think 8 out of 10 folks will be mooooooooooorrrrrrrrrrrrrrreeeeeeeeeeee than happy with this exhaust and quite frankily I'm impressed too ;)
 
I don't mind loud pipes, but unfortunately my city does. We have a lot of robocops around here: red light cams, speed on green cams ... we even have a noise snare device that has recently passed its pilot program. Basically, this device can "capture" the amount of noise that your vehicle is producing, grab a pic of your plate, and mail you a $200 ticket. :(
 
DUCENZO said:
I think disconnecting the valve cables will fix this problem, I did on my 1198...

Keep in mind though that only disconnecting the cables will still trigger a fault that you'll see on your dash. And tho this doesn't void you warrantee (my tech gave me the ok), that amber fault light gets annoyinh to look at lol.

what you can do to clear the fault is turn key to on (fault light present), turn it back off then on again then start bike...fault light be cleared and if you do ever have an actual engine fault, the amber light will still work.

To avoid doing the above method everytime you start up, you can spend the time to rig it so the actuator motor still works and thinks its open/closing valve. This will prevent any fault lights and your valve remain wide open (even more BEAUTIFUL SOUND from stock pipes)

You can take it an even further step (which I plan to do) by totally removing the exhaust valve motor and cables all together and your valve remains open (spring loaded ;).

Now I am not certain that that won't cause a fault...hopefully my tech would be willing to clear it for me somehow...maybe the same way they get rid of the assembly when they install termis. I know when they load the new mapping it knows the valve motor has been removed/disconnected.
Click to expand...


Thanks! I'm planning to keep the stock exhaust, but that butterfly has to go.
 
I agree. After hearing the stock cans, which are louder than my Akra's on my R1, I too plan on keeping the stock pipes. I am still anxious to see what Akra, Leo, etc., come up with.
 
I've already ordered the 70mm manifold and will be sending it off to Jet-Hot Ceramic Coatings for coating as soon as it arrives. I'm doing this for a couple of reasons in addition to the protection it offers; heat dissipation, largely based on the several comments about radiated heat that I've read here and because of the exterior appearance. I'm probably going to opt for the Extreme 1300 coating with the polished look for $165.00US. I like the idea of eliminating the weld marks along the pipe and the clean but not overly bright chromed look it offers.

I also considered the black exterior at $200.00US but it is a satin finish. I would consider the titanium look of the clutch cover or maybe even the gold-anodized look of the front forks - but they don't offer those colors.

I'm going to do the break in with the stock system and then swap over the 70mm and Termi cans.
 
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I'm wondering if I can ceramic coat the complete system including the cans. It would help with the heat it gives off and I'd like the black look.
 
Check with Jet-Hot Ceramic Coatings they are quick to reply via E-mail. I spoke with them on the phone as well and found them very helpful.

I didn't ask them about the coating the cans though - either inside or out.
 

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