The Ultimate Fix for all V4R Reliability Problems

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Here's my oil level post service at my dealer. Bike has been sitting for a few days and is cold.

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Corrected, street riding only, at least until next season.

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A gallon freezer bag. Way more than the sight glass would make you think. I think from now on I'm only going to pay them to reset the service lights.

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Yeah man I don’t pay them for anything but resetting the light. That is so overfilled I can’t believe they left it that way, ridiculous really. This is why I get a laugh out of the “my Ducati master tech told me” comments that are rampant on this forum.
 
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The 2018 V4's had a recall for the oil cooler. Do you notice any very small oil leaks right at the interface with the oil cooler and the hardware? It's a bad design because the lines have next to no flex and stress the hell out of the mounts.
 
The 2018 oil cooler recall was to add a new oil cooler which has more material around the ports. On my Streetfigher the connections were maybe 1/8 turn loose and had a slight amount of oil leaking. Nothing alarming, but a quick turn of a wrench fixed it.

New style.

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Yeah man I don’t pay them for anything but resetting the light. That is so overfilled I can’t believe they left it that way, ridiculous really. This is why I get a laugh out of the “my Ducati master tech told me” comments that are rampant on this forum.

With as dirty as it is, its obvious that there's old oil in the mix. I'll be changing it again sooner rather than later.
 
Warming it up first is NOT proper procedures on the V4.

The V4 operates with a dry sump style system and multiple pumps. Proper procedure is to let the bike fully cool down before doing any draining. If you warm up the bike, a lot of the oil is still up in the motor and does not drain out.

This is the main reason why so many people overfill their V4 motor Ducatis. Conventional motorcycle wisdom does not apply to them. If you change the oil with the motor warm, you will not be able to accurately measure the amount you should be putting in. Furthermore, a lot of people are firing up the bike to get it warm after changing the oil and immediately checking the sight glass, which will read very low when the bike is warm. They throw more oil in and it is way overfilled at that point.

Proper procedure for the V4 is to let the bike fully cool (dealerships wait an hour if you rode it in) and then drain the oil. Ideally, pop the drain plug off and let it drain overnight. Fill it with the proper amount (checking with sightglass), fire the bike up, let it warm up to 3 bars or so, then shut it off. Wait another hour or so and look at the sightglass to check the oil level, top off if necessary.

It's lame but you just can't bang out a 15 minute oil change on these bikes like most others.
Thank you a lot for posting this.
 
Here's my oil level post service at my dealer. Bike has been sitting for a few days and is cold.

View attachment 39728

Corrected, street riding only, at least until next season.

View attachment 39729

A gallon freezer bag. Way more than the sight glass would make you think. I think from now on I'm only going to pay them to reset the service lights.

View attachment 39730

Answers my question I guess, not even the techs as dealerships know the bike has to be cold to change the oil. Pretty clear they fired the bike up to get it warm before they drained the oil. Put the new stuff in and probably checked the sight glass right away, looked good so they called it a day. All the old oil sitting up in the motor drained back down and shows just how big a difference the new procedure makes.
 

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