TuneBoy QS screen pics

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Trauma said:
I thought during the install it said to make note of some code (I didn't) in case you needed to re-install mon anther computer - but I could be mis-remembering.
Click to expand...

You need the code and the numeric password you made during install for other devices. If you care about that sort of thing haha.
 
Trauma said:
I thought during the install it said to make note of some code (I didn't) in case you needed to re-install mon anther computer - but I could be mis-remembering.
Click to expand...

1. When connected to the bike and ignition on open the Mitsubishi Flash program.
2. In the bottom right corner You'll find a "?". Click on it.
3. A new window opens and You can see the serial number og the ECU and the key connected to the ECU.
4. This is the Key You'll need if You want to access the ECU from another computer using the TuneBoy software.
 
Does anyone experience a odd situation when rapidly downshift from 6 to 3? My downshift sometimes work for the first gear (6->5) and stop working for 5->4, and 4->3. Sometimes from 5->4 is ok but 4->3 did not... Look like I have to log the rear AF to dig out the root cause.

I operate it with the throttle fully closed.When the quick downshift work, it will blip for me even I had the clutch in. But when this odd situation, even I had the clutch in, it won't blip for me, have to blip by myself.

Any suggestions?
 
crazybat said:
Does anyone experience a odd situation when rapidly downshift from 6 to 3? My downshift sometimes work for the first gear (6->5) and stop working for 5->4, and 4->3. Sometimes from 5->4 is ok but 4->3 did not... Look like I have to log the rear AF to dig out the root cause.

I operate it with the throttle fully closed.When the quick downshift work, it will blip for me even I had the clutch in. But when this odd situation, even I had the clutch in, it won't blip for me, have to blip by myself.

Any suggestions?
Click to expand...

Hey crazy, I notice when I'm decelreating quickly from a speed and need to get through to 1st quickly, from usually 5th, the harder I'm on the brakes the easier the downshifts. I'll try it on my way home in a bit and get back to you. It rarely makes me think twice about it. I'm finding especially after my track day, that the harder I ride the bike, the easier the QS works in most rev ranges haha. :D
 
Hey Sergio, I did a couple adjustment to the rearset last night, loosen the shifter pivot bolt a little bit, and it works ok now. Not 100% sure it is solved or not, will keep watching.

I was suspecting for the pivot is over tighten so the tension of the shift rod is not completely released after it completed the first auto blip, since the tension was not released, bike think I did not release the shifter, so there is no second blip to do and so on.

If the result turns out positive, I can then work on tuning the BlipH and BlipL.
 
Good to see you got it working Crazybat,I love mine , Sergio is right , the harder you ride the better it works. Enjoy!
 
Having trouble with my upshifts. The downshifts are working perfect, but shifting up is harsh and pops out of gear when going from 3rd to 4th. Sometimes back into 3rd and sometimes a false neutral.
Anyone else having issues with the upshifts?
Any input would be greatly appreciated.
 
krikat said:
Having trouble with my upshifts. The downshifts are working perfect, but shifting up is harsh and pops out of gear when going from 3rd to 4th. Sometimes back into 3rd and sometimes a false neutral.

Anyone else having issues with the upshifts?

Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Click to expand...



Could be your linkage- do you have aftermarket rear sets?

You might be lazy shifting.

More info is needed, are you wot or putting around the streets?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Have Bonamici rearsets, track bike only.
Happens when under hard acceleration out of a right hand corner.
I disconnected the Tuneboy and tried a session without it. No false neutral or downchange when clicking up from third to fourth without the clutch. (happy because I initially thought gearbox problems) :)
No quickshifter just old school throttle off click up.
Funny how we all become used to the technology so quickly, my times dropped a few seconds having to use the clutch.
I think I will reload everything and set the upshift kill time to minimum.
 
krikat said:
Having trouble with my upshifts. The downshifts are working perfect, but shifting up is harsh and pops out of gear when going from 3rd to 4th. Sometimes back into 3rd and sometimes a false neutral.
Anyone else having issues with the upshifts?
Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Click to expand...
Your kill time is too short.

In perfect condition, When the ignition cut, your gear fork can pull out current gear and slide into next gear.

But with too short of kill time, the ignition cut is not long enough, you pull it out from current gear and the ignition come back on, and you will not be able to put into next gear. If next gear is not completely slide in, it will pops out to neutral (actually between 3rd and 4th) or sometimes directly into false neutral.

The other evidence for short kill time is the harsh shifting, the shorter kill time, the more harsh feel.
 
I had a similar rough shifting problem and Emma sent me a newer version that was supposed to address the problem. I've not had a chance to test it out yet. You might want to check back with here and see if they have a new version available.
 
Thanks guys, I will have a look into those suggestions.
Pics of current settings would be greatly appreciated too.
When I had the kill time set higher the bike would pause for too long it didn't seem effortless like the oem set-up. Didn't feel right.
 
I tried the new firmware that Emma sent me at the track this past weekend. Everything worked great for up and downshifting. The harder I pushed the better it worked.
 

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