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skidrumr said:
Don't know quite how to feel about that.. sadness for the bike? Was it quietly screaming as its tires' edges were left shiny and its tach never sniffed at redline? At least it is being ridden, though poorly, as most of those sweet Desmos are parked in collector's garages.
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Oh for sure, that dude had maximum poser points for kitting himself out like that and riding so slowly. But you’re right... at least he was out there riding the thing!

If I’m being honest, however, I’m not sure I would want to pour the wood to an $80,000 bike. I’d probably duckwalk the ....... everywhere sinceI couldn’t afford to replace it!
 
Naaa the heck with that I bring my V4 Speciale to the track all the time and ride her like shes meant to be ridden. Same with my other bikes. for me I believe why have them if your never gonna stretch their legs......
 
IDK. Maybe you're printing more money like Biden. I'm nervous on a $30k bike let alone 3x that much. There's a point where you have to ride it like you have everything to loose and nothing to gain. My V4S makes me want to get a 300 I can beat the snot out of, drop it and give no Fs.
 
bp_SFV4 said:
IDK. Maybe you're printing more money like Biden. I'm nervous on a $30k bike let alone 3x that much. There's a point where you have to ride it like you have everything to loose and nothing to gain. My V4S makes me want to get a 300 I can beat the snot out of, drop it and give no Fs.
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Definitely not like Biden in any way. For me there’s no point in having one of these girls and not using the heck out of them. Once I get out on the track I forget all about the cost and just ride. I’m not going to ride beyond my limits but I’m going to take her right to the edge for sure.
 
Somefun said:
Definitely not like Biden in any way. For me there’s no point in having one of these girls and not using the heck out of them. Once I get out on the track I forget all about the cost and just ride. I’m not going to ride beyond my limits but I’m going to take her right to the edge for sure.
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Ladies... you’ve either just been warned or are are in for a treat. Make of it what you will.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Alkhater said:
Ladies... you’ve either just been warned or are are in for a treat. Make of it what you will.
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:rolleyes:

1615980901844.png
 
Installed OFT Stage I Saturday, got out for a shakedown ride Sunday, first outing after a winter of mods:
Noticeably smoother throttle response (CNC throttle tube helps with all the slop gone) and the sensation of the motor being choked in the lower gears is absent. I changed gearing to help the bike be more manageable at anything under 150 mph since there are few places to do 180+, and it easily floats the front in 5th now. This is stock exhaust, stock air filter.
So the "on, off, on" feeling rolling the throttle, where it seems to go flat halfway through, is now much more linear. Dyno chart shows about a 5hp gain, but I was really after a better curve so I'm interested to see what more flow and a Stage II flash will do. And eliminating the annoying midpipe valve, which I can hear and feel affecting things. Still waiting on Austin Racing, and the Sprint filter is patiently sitting.

Still not a fan of the unnecessary amount of movement required by the throttle, it makes it difficult to maintain correct riding position. The Domino throttle assembly is supposed to reduce it by 10% so that may be next on the list. But this is a pleasant first step, making an amazing bike incrementally better.
 
Interested to hear your thoughts as you get more seat time on the OFT.
I have a T-800 sitting in the box but looking for alternatives before I marry it to my vin.
What gearing did you go with?
 
I almost always drop a tooth in the front on any bike, they are geared way too tall for anything but the Autobahn.
On this naked bike, even more so, so I did -1 front and +2 rear. I had reservations that it would be too short, but it feels fantastic pretty much everywhere. Easier rolling out in 1st, and I still rarely got out of 3rd in the canyons but the difference is it doesn't feel like I'm stuck in the wrong part of the rev range. For aggressive riding I'm staying above 7K and with the old gearing that would either be way too fast for the conditions or the next gear down would be bumping redline. I'm going to check out a local track that's only 1.3 miles total and see how it feels there, the other one I ride is 2.5 total and 160 on the long back straight is plenty.

If you do a quick change setup, you can play with a tooth either direction on the rear without needing to mess with the chain.
 
skidrumr said:
I almost always drop a tooth in the front on any bike, they are geared way too tall for anything but the Autobahn.
On this naked bike, even more so, so I did -1 front and +2 rear. I had reservations that it would be too short, but it feels fantastic pretty much everywhere. Easier rolling out in 1st, and I still rarely got out of 3rd in the canyons but the difference is it doesn't feel like I'm stuck in the wrong part of the rev range. For aggressive riding I'm staying above 7K and with the old gearing that would either be way too fast for the conditions or the next gear down would be bumping redline. I'm going to check out a local track that's only 1.3 miles total and see how it feels there, the other one I ride is 2.5 total and 160 on the long back straight is plenty.

If you do a quick change setup, you can play with a tooth either direction on the rear without needing to mess with the chain.
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Interesting... I tried to get a -1 front sprocket here without luck. I think the OEM = 15 teeth? Where did you get your from 14 teeth from? Regards!
 
TwoWheels said:
Interesting... I tried to get a -1 front sprocket here without luck. I think the OEM = 15 teeth? Where did you get your from 14 teeth from? Regards!
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Superlite 520 kit- same as the Panigale. Though on my old Duc I found a -1 front for the 525 so I know they are out there if you want to keep the stock chain
 
Easy.

520 or 525.

www.ducatiomaha.com

AFAM Superlite XD Series Chromoly Steel Front Race Sprocket - Panigale V4

AFAM Superlite "Xtreme Duty" front sprockets are manufactured to be the lightest and most durable countershaft sprockets available today. Superlite front sprockets are made from case hardened chromoly steel to exact tolerances and the exclusive tooth profile offers a precise fitment over other...
www.ducatiomaha.com www.ducatiomaha.com
 
bp_SFV4 said:
Easy.

520 or 525.

www.ducatiomaha.com

AFAM Superlite XD Series Chromoly Steel Front Race Sprocket - Panigale V4

AFAM Superlite "Xtreme Duty" front sprockets are manufactured to be the lightest and most durable countershaft sprockets available today. Superlite front sprockets are made from case hardened chromoly steel to exact tolerances and the exclusive tooth profile offers a precise fitment over other...
www.ducatiomaha.com www.ducatiomaha.com
Click to expand...
Great! Thanks!!

I got a call from the National Ducati importer and distributor over here.... Asked a few questions why I intend to change ratios and then said that they took a EU spec Streetfighter V4S (2020) owned by the company director, went down a tooth up front and +2 at the rear. They ran into "electronics" issues that they could not get corrected - QS had issues etc. They did a re-calibration on the bike but eventually just went back to OEM..... So now I'm cautious... Regards.
 
I haven't had any problems yet, nor did I on previous bikes with ABS & DTC. Mine is not EU spec so maybe they have more stringent electronics oversight for Euro 5 emissions, but typically all of your big brothering depends on the IMU and tone rings at the wheels to make calculations.. DTC, ABS, DWC, DSC are all just looking for differences in wheel speed; "lean sensitive" ABS just changes application of the pump depending on angle using the IMU, and so does the rear wheel lift control (I forget the acronym) to keep you from doing an endo.
As far as I know the only time the ECU intervenes motor-wise (not driven by wheelspeed differences) is your QS and RPM limiter. QS is set up to operate within a certain RPM range for blipping downshifts but you can upshift right above idle if you want, neither one should care about wheelspeed, drivetrain speed, or gear.. redline is redline whether it's 1st or 6th gear. I'm curious what their issues were.

I would say start with -1 F and see what that gets you. Heads up that involves removal of the left side rearset but I would argue it's quicker and less expensive than changing out the rear drive to a quick change style.
$20 and an hour of your time will get you a decent change in the bike. Funny they asked your intentions when they were doing it themselves!
 
I know this issue was persistent with the 2nd gen ZX14Rs as well. The -1 gearing caused low-RPM stuttering. Explanation was the tables that the ECU uses. Apparently it modulates power using the wheel speed sensors AND the engine speed reading. When the RPM do not fall within the expected spec, the TC would intervene.

It took serious ECU hackery from Woolich before they were able to compensate for it. Perhaps this is the same problem?
 
skidrumr said:
I haven't had any problems yet, nor did I on previous bikes with ABS & DTC. Mine is not EU spec so maybe they have more stringent electronics oversight for Euro 5 emissions, but typically all of your big brothering depends on the IMU and tone rings at the wheels to make calculations.. DTC, ABS, DWC, DSC are all just looking for differences in wheel speed; "lean sensitive" ABS just changes application of the pump depending on angle using the IMU, and so does the rear wheel lift control (I forget the acronym) to keep you from doing an endo.
As far as I know the only time the ECU intervenes motor-wise (not driven by wheelspeed differences) is your QS and RPM limiter. QS is set up to operate within a certain RPM range for blipping downshifts but you can upshift right above idle if you want, neither one should care about wheelspeed, drivetrain speed, or gear.. redline is redline whether it's 1st or 6th gear. I'm curious what their issues were.

I would say start with -1 F and see what that gets you. Heads up that involves removal of the left side rearset but I would argue it's quicker and less expensive than changing out the rear drive to a quick change style.
$20 and an hour of your time will get you a decent change in the bike. Funny they asked your intentions when they were doing it themselves!
Click to expand...
I have built up a relationship with some of the members racing the SF V4s at the Phakisa track. So I guess they were just sharing their info.... They said that fitting a 14T up front did not upset the bike, however once adding the +2 at the back was an issue. I got a 14T for $75 (including shipping to my home)... I think it is bloody expensive but they only had one. I will report back once received and fitted. What is the torque on the sprocket bolt? Regards!
 

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