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Oh yeah, the magic color changing brake fluid!So I found an issue on mine :/
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V2 owners!!! Roll call!!! (Theres only like 6 of us)
- Thread starter ChrisDunham
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For the rear brake I assume is due to proximity. The reservoir is like two inches from the exhaust up against the head. The clutch may be from conductive heat which is why it isn't bright. The front is clean because that's the first thing in the wind, staying nice and chilly. SHIELDS UP!!!
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LF1U5O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sWz5Eb936RBZ2
Renew with RBF660 and you might be able to go 500 miles b4 it looks toast. Trick for the rear brake is to remove the caliper and flip it upside down or you risk getting air in there and won’t be able to get it out. Factory fluid was toast by 95 miles. That’s the way it goes, welcome to the Ducati family. Put some good fluid in there and renew it often or put a sock around the reservoirs
If you’re looking for a better deal than my favorite RBF660 you can go with Motul DOT5.1 and it should be better than what your bike shipped with
Amazon.com: Motul 100951 100% Full Synthetic Brake Fluid 2 Pack DOT 5.1 500mL Bottle with Premium Motul Sticker (2): Automotive
Renew with RBF660 and you might be able to go 500 miles b4 it looks toast. Trick for the rear brake is to remove the caliper and flip it upside down or you risk getting air in there and won’t be able to get it out. Factory fluid was toast by 95 miles. That’s the way it goes, welcome to the Ducati family. Put some good fluid in there and renew it often or put a sock around the reservoirs
If you’re looking for a better deal than my favorite RBF660 you can go with Motul DOT5.1 and it should be better than what your bike shipped with
Amazon.com: Motul 100951 100% Full Synthetic Brake Fluid 2 Pack DOT 5.1 500mL Bottle with Premium Motul Sticker (2): Automotive
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I believe Mr Moss stated brake fluid starts absorbing enough moisture in 90 days enough to dent the boiling point.
mine are the same color all the way around. I see a turkey baster and an oil can in my future..
mine are the same color all the way around. I see a turkey baster and an oil can in my future..
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I have this infatuation of taking things apart. born this way...hiding behind the Christmas tree with scissors and tape disassembling my siblings gifts then putting the wrapping paper back on just so.
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Anyone remove their fuel tank yet on their bike?
Man, I thought my 1198s rode HOT, but the V2 takes the cake with that rear cylinder heat, my inside thigh on both legs just below the crotch got burnt pretty well (enough to use Aloe gel for sunburn for a few days) when riding on a 90+ degree windy day, it was not enjoyable in the least bit, and I had on riding jeans. I ended up inquiring about the heat shield kit for the V2 from Ducatispacers.com, and was told the 959 kit fits everything but the seat, so I got one discounted -minus the seat shields which will come to me after couple months once it's finished.
I watched the video and read the installation manual Ducatispacers has, and when it came time to pull up the tank after removing the grounding connector and tank bolts at the front, there seemed to be more resistance than I was comfortable with while initially trying to raise the tank, so I just stopped. The V2 tank does not lift up and pivot like the V4 or prior, I think there is more connecting the tank but I could be wrong, and now I am too damn lazy to take panels off after having completely done that a week ago to correct and put a ceramic coating on.
This bike is so new, I cannot even find a workshop-service manual to download so I know how everything interconnects, let alone buy online. Guess I will just have the dealership install it when I have the Akra exhaust installed and let them deal with it.
Man, I thought my 1198s rode HOT, but the V2 takes the cake with that rear cylinder heat, my inside thigh on both legs just below the crotch got burnt pretty well (enough to use Aloe gel for sunburn for a few days) when riding on a 90+ degree windy day, it was not enjoyable in the least bit, and I had on riding jeans. I ended up inquiring about the heat shield kit for the V2 from Ducatispacers.com, and was told the 959 kit fits everything but the seat, so I got one discounted -minus the seat shields which will come to me after couple months once it's finished.
I watched the video and read the installation manual Ducatispacers has, and when it came time to pull up the tank after removing the grounding connector and tank bolts at the front, there seemed to be more resistance than I was comfortable with while initially trying to raise the tank, so I just stopped. The V2 tank does not lift up and pivot like the V4 or prior, I think there is more connecting the tank but I could be wrong, and now I am too damn lazy to take panels off after having completely done that a week ago to correct and put a ceramic coating on.
This bike is so new, I cannot even find a workshop-service manual to download so I know how everything interconnects, let alone buy online. Guess I will just have the dealership install it when I have the Akra exhaust installed and let them deal with it.
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Go to your local Ducati dealership and have them bring up the fuel tank parts diagram on their computer, it looks like the old microfiche parts diagrams before computers replaced them.
that will show you the fasteners and locations that secure the fuel tank.
that will show you the fasteners and locations that secure the fuel tank.
Sorry to be a pain, is the part you're referring to in this diagram?
https://www.bike-parts-ducati.com/d..._V4/Panigale-1100-V4/FUEL-TANK/552/2328/0/552
It would be a very similar diagram but I would think there would be differences from that model/year and the V2, maybe not but I wouldn’t know for sure. You might be able to use it for reference as far as the fastener locations but best to see the diagram at the dealer for the V2. You could take a screenshot there or ask them to print it out for you
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ceramic coating the inside of both of the headers, imho, would reduce the thermodynamics of chestnuts roasting on an open fire.
it was 48 degrees @ 6000 feet last night and the bum heat felt good. bmw guys pay for heated seats and we get it for free.
design wise, the duct work on the lower radiator has a smaller outlet than inlet so maybe a little flap in the front of the outlet might create a vacuum to pull more air through.
the front header, being so close to the upper radiator, probably heats the coolant more than what it can dissipate at low air flows. conduction, convection and radiation all come into play so a small v shaped shield at the bend might help with two of the three.
rear cylinders always run hotter on anything so maybe a little scoop around the rear brake reservoir like what they make for the front caliper.
the waterfall effect of leaning it out with temperature doesn't help and once the oil catches up, its harder to dissipate the burning hell you just threw your leg over.
i am at 930 miles or so and my solution is to shut it down at that light that steals 180 seconds of your life. not the safest thing to do but it helps heat wise. the coolant temps shoot up one degree per second when stopped.
avoid any roads where the speed limit is less than 35 mph and dump it into 4th if you can keep the rpms above 3500. seems to run cooler that way and its isn't lugging it if you don't try to accelerate without down shifting.
i dialed up my low beam just a hair. on roads where the asphalt roller was set to square wave, i am sensing a Moses affect. peeps just pull over and get out of your way.
it was 48 degrees @ 6000 feet last night and the bum heat felt good. bmw guys pay for heated seats and we get it for free.
design wise, the duct work on the lower radiator has a smaller outlet than inlet so maybe a little flap in the front of the outlet might create a vacuum to pull more air through.
the front header, being so close to the upper radiator, probably heats the coolant more than what it can dissipate at low air flows. conduction, convection and radiation all come into play so a small v shaped shield at the bend might help with two of the three.
rear cylinders always run hotter on anything so maybe a little scoop around the rear brake reservoir like what they make for the front caliper.
the waterfall effect of leaning it out with temperature doesn't help and once the oil catches up, its harder to dissipate the burning hell you just threw your leg over.
i am at 930 miles or so and my solution is to shut it down at that light that steals 180 seconds of your life. not the safest thing to do but it helps heat wise. the coolant temps shoot up one degree per second when stopped.
avoid any roads where the speed limit is less than 35 mph and dump it into 4th if you can keep the rpms above 3500. seems to run cooler that way and its isn't lugging it if you don't try to accelerate without down shifting.
i dialed up my low beam just a hair. on roads where the asphalt roller was set to square wave, i am sensing a Moses affect. peeps just pull over and get out of your way.
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The tech at ducati told me the rear reservoir is subject to more heat is the reason it gets dark faster than the front, or clutch reservoir's.
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I wonder how frequent I need to change it. First Ducati. My rears are black completely.
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