**WinterMode** V4R Race Bike Project

I have kinda stayed out of this but here are a couple thoughts
+IMA triples do not effect spacing
+OEM axle and wheels spacers often do not fit perfectly flush, not exactly sure why but I have seen friends have this same issue - most commonly axle dormant flush exactly to right hand side - I would ditch stock front axle every time. FF axles are not on back order they are made pre order and he is great + he is making me a new one right now from my crash
+New pistons could be sitting in caliper in a way that is offsetting pads slightly and potentially hitting rotors is slightly strange way - What Pistons are they ?
-I know you have t drives and they are great but I will say there is no reason to run 330 rotors, the spacers are annoying and they offer zero advantage and add weight - just saying

Hopefully when I ma back on bike mid June I can add some more riding info on here + photos here rough start of the season weather and heatlh wise

Good points. This really comes down to setup, knowing what you are doing and knowing how and having the tools and resources to solve the idiosyncrasies that can arise. Unfortunately, continuity between manufacturers isn’t always perfect and the nuances are often left to the buyer to deal with.

endodoc said:

The right spacer does not matter. It’s a floating spacer (length wise). It has nothing to do with wheel centering as it bottoms on the axle shoulder (big end) and that end is retained by the pinch bolts. It ends up wherever it ends up when the axle is installed.

Click to expand...

Think about it. The width of the left fork bottom does not change. That width and both spacers determines how much axle is left for the wheel. The width of the wheel does not change! If you increase the width of left spacer you gotta take the same amount off of the right one

Or you could take it off the left fork bottom but no one is gonna do that

Don, you are just confirming what I have always known. You really have no idea WTF you are talking about. Someone please send this guy a manual.

See the right side (clutch) of the axle Don, see the spacer with one side of it against the bearing and the shouldered side against the fork bottom? That spacer is a dead stop against the bearing and the fork bottom. Whatever that spacers is machined to determines the center of the wheel. See the left side of the axle Don with one side of it against the bearing and the other side against the axle (big side) that spacer has “ZERO” to do with centering the wheel as it is not fixed between the bearing and the fork bottom.

See the last pic with 2mm of axle sticking out? If I pull that left spacer and machine 2 mm off of it, the axle will no longer stick out 2 mm and it will have “ZERO” effect on wheel centering. The left spacer can be used to “center” the AXLE not the wheel. In my particular case in the photos taking 2mm off the left spacer would accomplish a “cosmetic” function only which obviously I didn’t are about when I put the wheel back on. I can pull the left spacer right now, knock 2 mill off it and fix that in 10 min. Changes absolutely nothing with regard to the centering of the “WHEEL” in the fork

The fork bottoms have different different size axle holes R&L. The right side is a smaller diameter which is why the shoulder bottoms on the fork bottom. The left side, the spacer can pass right through the fork bottom.

KarlKani said:

I have kinda stayed out of this but here are a couple thoughts
+IMA triples do not effect spacing
+OEM axle and wheels spacers often do not fit perfectly flush, not exactly sure why but I have seen friends have this same issue - most commonly axle dormant flush exactly to right hand side - I would ditch stock front axle every time. FF axles are not on back order they are made pre order and he is great + he is making me a new one right now from my crash
+New pistons could be sitting in caliper in a way that is offsetting pads slightly and potentially hitting rotors is slightly strange way - What Pistons are they ?
-I know you have t drives and they are great but I will say there is no reason to run 330 rotors, the spacers are annoying and they offer zero advantage and add weight - just saying

Hopefully when I ma back on bike mid June I can add some more riding info on here + photos here rough start of the season weather and heatlh wise

Click to expand...

Looking forward Karl

First you don’t label from the front. It’s part of a vehicle so always from the rear. What you are calling the left spacer is actually the right bro.

Try to picture what I am saying. The axle only has so much thread:



My nut with the left (Chain side) oem spacer and the oem wheel and the oem fork is .040” from bottoming out



S



Ya can’t change A or C (fork n wheel width) and I only have 040 before the axle bottoms in the nut remember? B locates the wheel but we aren’t talking about changing that in your scenario above, just taking 080 off the right spacer. The wheel doesn’t move but the axle moves 080 left. I only had 040 of thread left. No more sandwich. Need double washer. Understand now?

Oh I understand completely. You’re not talking about anything related to the original issue which was centering the wheel. We can start an additional thread on axle length if you want but that’s not what anyone was talking about here.

It was in reference to what you just said Ok centering the wheel:

If left spacer gets bigger my wheel moves right and axle sticks out further on right (if I then shorten right spacer axle (not the wheel) comes back to where it originally was)

If I shorten left spacer I run out of thread UNLESS I LENGTHEN RIGHT SPACER

: )

The “clutch side” spacer is not negotiable, ever. It needs to be whatever size it needs to be to center the wheel in the forks. You can play with the “brake side” spacer all you want to get your axle where it needs to be. Period, end of story

Case in point. CNC vs Mupo. Mupo is 5mm narrower than the CNC. If your running the CNC (which does conform to the OEM width) and you throw a Mupo clamp on there (or Attack as it is the same) you’re making wheel spacers and if you don’t want your axle big end sticking out, you might be making a shorter axle or extending the threads on the one you have. Pretty frickin simple

You are right thx

Fixed bike over the weekend. Nothing too major just had to replace stuff on the right hand side - farings/bar/rearsets bits/vinyl/update dash software + firmware. Nothing too crazy but took some time and still recovering. Saw a neurologist on Friday and everything is checking out and tracking which is a huge relief. Still waiting on front axle, other wise everything is good and ready for July.







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Glad you are on the mend

Did the header hit the kickstand mount when you fell or why is it dented?

LOL, seen that bike a lot and just noticed the Liquid Death decals, too funny! Death to Plastic!

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So I made it back out last weekend after a big injury that had me out for over 2 months. Finally got a full day on the bike and everything was working pretty damn good. Pretty out of shape since I haven't been able to work out either, so it was tough day physically. Also getting used to the pull//power is tough physically also, really difficult to get into tuck coming onto straight with throttle wide open. I basically left the bike alone settings wise with eh exception of a couple minor tweaks, I am going back to track this weekend so I will be able to finesse it a bit more and wrap my head around some of the characteristics. The power of this bike at hi revs is shocking...

Your bike is a stunner !!!

That radiator…

w00t! Congrats!
Right? You built quite the flying machine.
Take it with small steps, keep it shiny. Remember, safety 3rd!


Just noticed - No heel guards?