**WinterMode** V4R Race Bike Project

First thing I did when my triples showed up was check dimensions

Not just the center to center... the rest as well

Only thing I found that I didn’t like was the steering stem. They machine it down to reduce weight and maybe help with air flow but they went a lil overboard and it has to be perfectly centered vertically and even then I’m not sure the inner seals are gonna hold air. Once again dudes problem is not the trees. Symptoms would be different if it were

Yeah I am Ed, and I am sitting here waiting for the cam timing tools that he is gonna send me to show up so I can see where the factory put the lobe centers - Smoked

Plz send that .... bro

@KarlKani lemme know if you wanna sell that beat up fuel tank. Mine just sold : )

Guess he has us both on iggy @Paul G lol

Hope you aren’t saying I hijacked the thread? Dude put some trees (same ones Karl used?) n some rotors on his bike and is having issues. He coulda started a new thread sure but no biggie. Least not to me : )

While on the subject (the forks/wheel/
rotors/spacers/ etc thing) I have a question:

While doing all that crazy stuff to my front wheel I noticed that with all the oem parts the wheel bearings end up loaded when the nut is torqued. It’s like Ducati didn’t know how wide the bottom of my fork was when the made the spacers. Why would they load the bearings like that??? Do ball bearings need side load??? I would rather have just enough squish so that the wheel can’t move side to side but no side load. Thx in advance

Don its not the advice, its bunfight over who is genuine or not that seems to infect a lot of discussions. I'm not an engineer but the IMA triple or rather the offset wheel prob requires the Hansel and Gretel solution, when lost go back until you get to the point where you really know where you are. Then proceed. No need for a major 3 page sidetrack. A really simple way to check the IMA's would be to insert the forks into the lowers all the way then slide the stock lowers onto the forks. If they fit then the problem is elsewhere, no? Direct reference eliminates measurement errors.

Well it’s more like now stuck in a perpetual u turn than sideways. This stuff is so simple it’s hard to process that there is actually a thread on it. First is the erroneous assumption that something is supposed to be a certain way. This was my point on the different triples. Unless absolutely stated to be a “drop in replacement” for an existing part, the manufacturer can make the dimensions whatever they want. To then post that the manufacturer “screwed up” is nonsense.

I have in my possession 4 different triples for the 99 platform. The center distance of all of these clamps is different. If I’m going to select/mix and match manufacturers components to build a front end, I most assuredly assume that somewhere in the engineering of the assembly that I’m going to have to do a little massaging to get all of these parts to work harmoniously.
It’s just a given.

Now this completely assumes the “builder” knows WTF they are doing going into this which could be an entirely different conversation. So in conclusion, there’s nothing wrong with the IMA clamps. IMA didn’t screw up. They make an aftermarket part. It is entirely up to the buyer to determine beforehand if the components that constitute their assembly will be compatible and what the necessary steps would be to ensure that if it’s not a simple bolt on replacement.

If the buyer didn’t do the diligence prior to purchase, then as Don said, easiest way to determine compatibility is to compare the clamps using the fork legs as a jig. If it’s off and you don’t have the skills or resources to modify to fit, send the parts back. Pretty simple.

Don with regard to the front wheel bearings, they are not “laterally loaded. There is a center spacer between the bearings that has a “no L load” precision sandwich. So if your question “am I causing a radial load between bearing and it’s case, the answer is no. It is impossible to mess this assembly up. I surmise I should add “for most people

Guess I should add that the only critical spacer is the “clutch side” of the bike as that spacer is a dead stop from the bearing to the fork bottom. The other spacer ideally should allow the axle (big end) to fit flush in the fork bottom but it’s not used for wheel alignment. If it’s a bit short the axle protrudes a hair more on the nut side of its too long the axle protrudes a hair in the big side.

I am so smoked. Of course the center spacer prevents side load when nut is torqued duh. Thx

That bit about the dimension of the right spacer not mattering can’t be right tho. If I took .100” off the left spacer and did not add .100 to the right spacer the axle would bottom out in the nut and nothing would be sandwiched

Guess you could add washers but this is a Ducati. No double washer allowed : )

The right spacer does not matter. It’s a floating spacer (length wise). It has nothing to do with wheel centering as it bottoms on the axle shoulder (big end) and that end is retained by the pinch bolts. It ends up wherever it ends up when the axle is installed. The right side spacer is the same diameter as the axle (big end) and slides right through the fork bottom hole. It is not sandwiched between the fork bottom and the bearing like the left side.

I have kinda stayed out of this but here are a couple thoughts
+IMA triples do not effect spacing
+OEM axle and wheels spacers often do not fit perfectly flush, not exactly sure why but I have seen friends have this same issue - most commonly axle dormant flush exactly to right hand side - I would ditch stock front axle every time. FF axles are not on back order they are made pre order and he is great + he is making me a new one right now from my crash
+New pistons could be sitting in caliper in a way that is offsetting pads slightly and potentially hitting rotors is slightly strange way - What Pistons are they ?
-I know you have t drives and they are great but I will say there is no reason to run 330 rotors, the spacers are annoying and they offer zero advantage and add weight - just saying

Hopefully when I ma back on bike mid June I can add some more riding info on here + photos here rough start of the season weather and heatlh wise

Good points. This really comes down to setup, knowing what you are doing and knowing how and having the tools and resources to solve the idiosyncrasies that can arise. Unfortunately, continuity between manufacturers isn’t always perfect and the nuances are often left to the buyer to deal with.

endodoc said:

The right spacer does not matter. It’s a floating spacer (length wise). It has nothing to do with wheel centering as it bottoms on the axle shoulder (big end) and that end is retained by the pinch bolts. It ends up wherever it ends up when the axle is installed.

Click to expand...

Think about it. The width of the left fork bottom does not change. That width and both spacers determines how much axle is left for the wheel. The width of the wheel does not change! If you increase the width of left spacer you gotta take the same amount off of the right one

Or you could take it off the left fork bottom but no one is gonna do that

See the right side (clutch) of the axle Don, see the spacer with one side of it against the bearing and the shouldered side against the fork bottom? That spacer is a dead stop against the bearing and the fork bottom. Whatever that spacers is machined to determines the center of the wheel. See the left side of the axle Don with one side of it against the bearing and the other side against the axle (big side) that spacer has “ZERO” to do with centering the wheel as it is not fixed between the bearing and the fork bottom.

See the last pic with 2mm of axle sticking out? If I pull that left spacer and machine 2 mm off of it, the axle will no longer stick out 2 mm and it will have “ZERO” effect on wheel centering. The left spacer can be used to “center” the AXLE not the wheel. In my particular case in the photos taking 2mm off the left spacer would accomplish a “cosmetic” function only which obviously I didn’t are about when I put the wheel back on. I can pull the left spacer right now, knock 2 mill off it and fix that in 10 min. Changes absolutely nothing with regard to the centering of the “WHEEL” in the fork

The fork bottoms have different different size axle holes R&L. The right side is a smaller diameter which is why the shoulder bottoms on the fork bottom. The left side, the spacer can pass right through the fork bottom.

KarlKani said:

I have kinda stayed out of this but here are a couple thoughts
+IMA triples do not effect spacing
+OEM axle and wheels spacers often do not fit perfectly flush, not exactly sure why but I have seen friends have this same issue - most commonly axle dormant flush exactly to right hand side - I would ditch stock front axle every time. FF axles are not on back order they are made pre order and he is great + he is making me a new one right now from my crash
+New pistons could be sitting in caliper in a way that is offsetting pads slightly and potentially hitting rotors is slightly strange way - What Pistons are they ?
-I know you have t drives and they are great but I will say there is no reason to run 330 rotors, the spacers are annoying and they offer zero advantage and add weight - just saying

Hopefully when I ma back on bike mid June I can add some more riding info on here + photos here rough start of the season weather and heatlh wise

Click to expand...

Looking forward Karl

First you don’t label from the front. It’s part of a vehicle so always from the rear. What you are calling the left spacer is actually the right bro.

Try to picture what I am saying. The axle only has so much thread:



My nut with the left (Chain side) oem spacer and the oem wheel and the oem fork is .040” from bottoming out



S



Ya can’t change A or C (fork n wheel width) and I only have 040 before the axle bottoms in the nut remember? B locates the wheel but we aren’t talking about changing that in your scenario above, just taking 080 off the right spacer. The wheel doesn’t move but the axle moves 080 left. I only had 040 of thread left. No more sandwich. Need double washer. Understand now?

Oh I understand completely. You’re not talking about anything related to the original issue which was centering the wheel. We can start an additional thread on axle length if you want but that’s not what anyone was talking about here.

It was in reference to what you just said Ok centering the wheel:

If left spacer gets bigger my wheel moves right and axle sticks out further on right (if I then shorten right spacer axle (not the wheel) comes back to where it originally was)

If I shorten left spacer I run out of thread UNLESS I LENGTHEN RIGHT SPACER

: )

The “clutch side” spacer is not negotiable, ever. It needs to be whatever size it needs to be to center the wheel in the forks. You can play with the “brake side” spacer all you want to get your axle where it needs to be. Period, end of story

Case in point. CNC vs Mupo. Mupo is 5mm narrower than the CNC. If your running the CNC (which does conform to the OEM width) and you throw a Mupo clamp on there (or Attack as it is the same) you’re making wheel spacers and if you don’t want your axle big end sticking out, you might be making a shorter axle or extending the threads on the one you have. Pretty frickin simple

You are right thx

Fixed bike over the weekend. Nothing too major just had to replace stuff on the right hand side - farings/bar/rearsets bits/vinyl/update dash software + firmware. Nothing too crazy but took some time and still recovering. Saw a neurologist on Friday and everything is checking out and tracking which is a huge relief. Still waiting on front axle, other wise everything is good and ready for July.







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Glad you are on the mend

Did the header hit the kickstand mount when you fell or why is it dented?