**WinterMode** V4R Race Bike Project

Is that why they now have diapers for all sizes?

Hey Karl, I see that you’re also running the IMA frontend setup (adjustable triple, clip on, etc). Did you run into fitment issue with the wheel?

Now we’re finishing the front end here and after things are torqued, it seems like axle spacing is off and rotors are touching calipers...

We are thinking about just shaving 1mm off of the spacer, but want to check with someone who uses the same parts...




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IMA, Mupo, CNC, Attack, didn't seem to matter what triples I used or what the advertised fork leg spacing was, I was modifying rotor spacers to perfectly center the rotors and wheel spacers to center the wheel and achieve zero lateral leg load. There are even variances between rotors that are advertised as "stock offset". My Marchesini front hub spacing is different than my OZs and thats different than a Mavic I have. A small lathe is your best friend when mixing triples, rotors and wheels. I have seen numerous aftermarket triple installs where the individual didn't even check what you are asking about only to expel an "Oh crap" when they actually did. Good call (sorry KarlKani, didnt mean to hijack the thread)

PNW Landshark said:

Hey Karl, I see that you’re also running the IMA frontend setup (adjustable triple, clip on, etc). Did you run into fitment issue with the wheel?

Now we’re finishing the front end here and after things are torqued, it seems like axle spacing is off and rotors are touching calipers...

We are thinking about just shaving 1mm off of the spacer, but want to check with someone who uses the same parts...

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Click to expand...

So here’s my scenario

I am using ohlins fgrt forks rebuilt to FKR spec, they are longer
Ima triples
Fast frank quick change front axle
Brembo gp4ms calipers w/ 320mm rotors
Oz front wheels with oz billet wheels spacers

All my fitment betweeen calipers rotors wheels and axles is all good however I don’t torque my front axle - I tighten moderately and rely and the pinch bolts to torque and do all the work. The oem axle and oem ohlins should be good to go spacing wise. Which calipers and rotors are you running also oem? 330? Are you using the spacers? Which pads are you running? Which wheels? Is your axle oem?


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KarlKani said:

So here’s my scenario

I am using ohlins fgrt forks rebuilt to FKR spec, they are longer
Ima triples
Fast frank quick change front axle
Brembo gp4ms calipers w/ 320mm rotors
Oz front wheels with oz billet wheels spacers

All my fitment betweeen calipers rotors wheels and axles is all good however I don’t torque my front axle - I tighten moderately and rely and the pinch bolts to torque and do all the work. The oem axle and oem ohlins should be good to go spacing wise. Which calipers and rotors are you running also oem? 330? Are you using the spacers? Which pads are you running? Which wheels? Is your axle oem?


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Click to expand...

I have IMA adjustable clip on and triple, stock caliper (with vented pistons, shouldn’t matter), T drive rotors, stock fixed Ohlins forks for the R...

The only variable here are the rotors and the triple tree.


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KarlKani said:

So here’s my scenario

I am using ohlins fgrt forks rebuilt to FKR spec, they are longer
Ima triples
Fast frank quick change front axle
Brembo gp4ms calipers w/ 320mm rotors
Oz front wheels with oz billet wheels spacers

All my fitment betweeen calipers rotors wheels and axles is all good however I don’t torque my front axle - I tighten moderately and rely and the pinch bolts to torque and do all the work. The oem axle and oem ohlins should be good to go spacing wise. Which calipers and rotors are you running also oem? 330? Are you using the spacers? Which pads are you running? Which wheels? Is your axle oem?


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Click to expand...

Now that I am back on my computer:

• IMA adjustable triple tree, at "stock" position in the mean time
• Stock Ohlins forks for the V4 R
• Stock caliper, vented piston, stock pad
• 330mm T-Drive rotor
• Stock axle and spacers

I wanted to get Fast Frank but everything is back ordered... So meanwhile the axle and spacers are stock.

Basically only non stock things are: IMA triple and 330mm T-drive rotor. The rotor seems to be the same thickness as OEM.

“Seems to be same thickness...” What about the offset?

Did you compare all the clamps when they were loose and in your hands? Can you measure the centers now?

Where is the interference? Can’t tell by the pics. Inside on both? Outside on both? Or is it like the wheel isn’t centered one of each?

PNW Landshark said:

Now that I am back on my computer:

• IMA adjustable triple tree, at "stock" position in the mean time
• Stock Ohlins forks for the V4 R
• Stock caliper, vented piston, stock pad
• 330mm T-Drive rotor
• Stock axle and spacers

I wanted to get Fast Frank but everything is back ordered... So meanwhile the axle and spacers are stock.

Basically only non stock things are: IMA triple and 330mm T-drive rotor. The rotor seems to be the same thickness as OEM.

Click to expand...

Send thru a side pic of your wheel so we can take look at caliper rotor setup


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Post is a little confusing. Landshark asks Karl if he had a fitment issue with the front wheel because he’s using the IMA and then posts his build list which is completely different except for the triple than Karl.

endodoc said:

Post is a little confusing. Landshark asks Karl if he had a fitment issue with the front wheel because he’s using the IMA and then posts his build list which is completely different except for the triple than Karl.

Click to expand...

True


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KarlKani said:

Send thru a side pic of your wheel so we can take look at caliper rotor setup


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Click to expand...

Finally got a chance to take some pictures. In addition to the pictures above These are the 2 sides.

The issue is the left caliper is touching on the outside and the right caliper is touching on the inside. This means the forks are closer together than they’re supposed to be. And the left side spacer is in this case “pushing”. So we thought we probably have to go to a machine shop and shave off 1mm on the left spacer.

Also it’s obvious that the right side of the axle sticks out a bit more than usual. It’s supposed to be flush I think.

Re: the question about different parts used: I think it’s straightforward that the triple is what holds the forks together above the axle. If the fork legs distance is problematic then the triple’s precision is a prime suspect. IMA didn’t really specify non-stock fork distance so I just assume anybody running these triples would assume the fork distance and all the downstream setup is in stock spec. And would therefore notice if it is not. Maybe I’m wrong and I’m happy to learn why. I’m mostly here to learn




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If one side is touching the outside of the caliper and the other is touching the inside then your wheel is simply not centered based off the wheel spacers you have and that is an easy fix.

The axle sticking out is not an issue except maybe aesthetically. That is a result of the wheel spacer’s dead stop between the axle shoulder and the bearing. So if the wheel and the fork are the same (before IMA) and the wheel spacer is the same then all indications are that your IMA clamps are narrower than stock (axle showing). This will require a mod to the wheel spacer or spacers to center the assembly.

Regarding you assumption, understand that 90% of guys running aftermarket clamps are also running aftermarket wheels and spacers and that there are additional spacer kits available. You start layering in different calipers and rotors and you now potentially have 4-5 different manufacturers of parts in that front end. It is generally universally accepted that the more you mix the more likely you will be doing some custom work. I have personally made wheel and sometimes rotor spacers for every bike I have put together using aftermarket parts and that’s to get the wheel and rotors dead nuts which is probably overkill but that’s me.

If there is a 040 washer under the nut remove it and see where you are

If wheel still has to go more to the right there are 2 ways to do that:

Make new spacers (thicker left thinner right)

Or don’t use the nut to locate the wheel (like Karl is doing)

Don what good is removing the nut washer on the outside of the assembly going to do except move the nut closer to the outside of the leg?Additionally Karl is running a FF axle which if it’s the same setup as I have has a threaded sleeve that you leave in place so you only have to loosen one set of pinch bolts then screw the axle out. So Dons advice on the axle is a bad idea. Not at all the same setup. The front wheel needs to have proper spacers.

Yep

My bad

Adding my 2 cents, assuming you aligned the fork legs properly before tightening the pinch bolts?

LOL that’s one of those “first on the list” things I assume was obviously checked so it wasn’t mentioned but yes good point, “check that first”. I know better than to assume anything these days.

I guess the other thing could be that the IMA triple are out of spec. Maybe take the stock triples and IMA ones and thread the forks through the top triple to check the spec. Then repeat with the bottom triple.

The wheel is slightly left for some reason

How can trees cause that?