**WinterMode** V4R Race Bike Project

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Bike has a dim sport tune on c12 and is 202 at the rear wheel. Not too bad
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KarlKani said:
Dash is great but also challenging. They just now released new software that should have actual V4R settings now. Previously it’s only had V4 settings that aren’t amazing. The biggest issue right now is that the Launch control is not working for me yet but everything else is mostly good, I will update you once I get the new software update next week.


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Thanks ! I also heard 2018 and 2019 models of V4R might require different software on i2m side. Is this true or not ? What year is your bike ?
 
Awesome build man but I’m baffled at these hp numbers seems like they are going nowhere. 200 RWHP seems like the sound barrier did in the 40s. We have had 1000cc bikes making 200 RWHP for 12 years and here we have a what 60k plus state of the art bike on go gas making what? 200hp. Interesting that every sport bike jockey out there thinks their bike makes 200hp because of the brands sales sheet loves to hover at that number.
 
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KarlKani said:
My main issue is I have been having qs and downshift issues. Oem qs wasn’t working above 12k which was a struggle to figure out at first. At first linkeage hitting swings arm and I thought this was what was causing problem. I fixed that but then was still having upshifting at hi rpm. I swapped out to Translogic shifter and was shifting perfectly on dyno but they wasn’t downshifting correctly on dyno. Last day on track I tested out in parking lot first thing in the morning, it was 50 deg and wet out. I went out hit 2nd gear then downshifted down to first and got on the brakes just in the lot. No gear on and lost the front - what a stupid decision. So took a spill and have been dealing with it sense even tho bike is fine and I believe down shifting not problem.


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Cordona is the way to go
 
It might still be only 200 hp but look at the torque curve. It has torque everywhere now. That’s what’s different
 
Wasn’t analyzing the tune I was referencing the numbers in general based on a chronological scale. Seems they have changed little in a decade yet the advertising keeps bumping them up.
 
Running out of ways to make 1000cc more efficient so lie til everything is electric I guess

1399 might make more than 200 : )
 
Hey Karl, I see that you’re also running the IMA frontend setup (adjustable triple, clip on, etc). Did you run into fitment issue with the wheel?

Now we’re finishing the front end here and after things are torqued, it seems like axle spacing is off and rotors are touching calipers...

We are thinking about just shaving 1mm off of the spacer, but want to check with someone who uses the same parts...

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IMA, Mupo, CNC, Attack, didn't seem to matter what triples I used or what the advertised fork leg spacing was, I was modifying rotor spacers to perfectly center the rotors and wheel spacers to center the wheel and achieve zero lateral leg load. There are even variances between rotors that are advertised as "stock offset". My Marchesini front hub spacing is different than my OZs and thats different than a Mavic I have. A small lathe is your best friend when mixing triples, rotors and wheels. I have seen numerous aftermarket triple installs where the individual didn't even check what you are asking about only to expel an "Oh crap" when they actually did. Good call (sorry KarlKani, didnt mean to hijack the thread)
 
PNW Landshark said:
Hey Karl, I see that you’re also running the IMA frontend setup (adjustable triple, clip on, etc). Did you run into fitment issue with the wheel?

Now we’re finishing the front end here and after things are torqued, it seems like axle spacing is off and rotors are touching calipers...

We are thinking about just shaving 1mm off of the spacer, but want to check with someone who uses the same parts...

54d35b1a80e8ef4947da4e4c8a48a16d.jpg
0b0ad614ae9656cfd6d3d6d172e8e97f.jpg
78d9eb60e552f73e0d2b72e9029178ab.jpg



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So here’s my scenario

I am using ohlins fgrt forks rebuilt to FKR spec, they are longer
Ima triples
Fast frank quick change front axle
Brembo gp4ms calipers w/ 320mm rotors
Oz front wheels with oz billet wheels spacers

All my fitment betweeen calipers rotors wheels and axles is all good however I don’t torque my front axle - I tighten moderately and rely and the pinch bolts to torque and do all the work. The oem axle and oem ohlins should be good to go spacing wise. Which calipers and rotors are you running also oem? 330? Are you using the spacers? Which pads are you running? Which wheels? Is your axle oem?


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KarlKani said:
So here’s my scenario

I am using ohlins fgrt forks rebuilt to FKR spec, they are longer
Ima triples
Fast frank quick change front axle
Brembo gp4ms calipers w/ 320mm rotors
Oz front wheels with oz billet wheels spacers

All my fitment betweeen calipers rotors wheels and axles is all good however I don’t torque my front axle - I tighten moderately and rely and the pinch bolts to torque and do all the work. The oem axle and oem ohlins should be good to go spacing wise. Which calipers and rotors are you running also oem? 330? Are you using the spacers? Which pads are you running? Which wheels? Is your axle oem?


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I have IMA adjustable clip on and triple, stock caliper (with vented pistons, shouldn’t matter), T drive rotors, stock fixed Ohlins forks for the R...

The only variable here are the rotors and the triple tree.


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KarlKani said:
So here’s my scenario

I am using ohlins fgrt forks rebuilt to FKR spec, they are longer
Ima triples
Fast frank quick change front axle
Brembo gp4ms calipers w/ 320mm rotors
Oz front wheels with oz billet wheels spacers

All my fitment betweeen calipers rotors wheels and axles is all good however I don’t torque my front axle - I tighten moderately and rely and the pinch bolts to torque and do all the work. The oem axle and oem ohlins should be good to go spacing wise. Which calipers and rotors are you running also oem? 330? Are you using the spacers? Which pads are you running? Which wheels? Is your axle oem?


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Now that I am back on my computer:
  • IMA adjustable triple tree, at "stock" position in the mean time
  • Stock Ohlins forks for the V4 R
  • Stock caliper, vented piston, stock pad
  • 330mm T-Drive rotor
  • Stock axle and spacers
I wanted to get Fast Frank but everything is back ordered... So meanwhile the axle and spacers are stock.

Basically only non stock things are: IMA triple and 330mm T-drive rotor. The rotor seems to be the same thickness as OEM.
 
“Seems to be same thickness...” What about the offset?

Did you compare all the clamps when they were loose and in your hands? Can you measure the centers now?

Where is the interference? Can’t tell by the pics. Inside on both? Outside on both? Or is it like the wheel isn’t centered one of each?
 
PNW Landshark said:
Now that I am back on my computer:
  • IMA adjustable triple tree, at "stock" position in the mean time
  • Stock Ohlins forks for the V4 R
  • Stock caliper, vented piston, stock pad
  • 330mm T-Drive rotor
  • Stock axle and spacers
I wanted to get Fast Frank but everything is back ordered... So meanwhile the axle and spacers are stock.

Basically only non stock things are: IMA triple and 330mm T-drive rotor. The rotor seems to be the same thickness as OEM.
Click to expand...

Send thru a side pic of your wheel so we can take look at caliper rotor setup


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Post is a little confusing. Landshark asks Karl if he had a fitment issue with the front wheel because he’s using the IMA and then posts his build list which is completely different except for the triple than Karl.
 
endodoc said:
Post is a little confusing. Landshark asks Karl if he had a fitment issue with the front wheel because he’s using the IMA and then posts his build list which is completely different except for the triple than Karl.
Click to expand...

True


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KarlKani said:
Send thru a side pic of your wheel so we can take look at caliper rotor setup


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554d6fb775cf91fd4d84b894588ca4b7.jpg
05db3842f18c1130eeae10d5799b9abe.jpg


Finally got a chance to take some pictures. In addition to the pictures above These are the 2 sides.

The issue is the left caliper is touching on the outside and the right caliper is touching on the inside. This means the forks are closer together than they’re supposed to be. And the left side spacer is in this case “pushing”. So we thought we probably have to go to a machine shop and shave off 1mm on the left spacer.

Also it’s obvious that the right side of the axle sticks out a bit more than usual. It’s supposed to be flush I think.

Re: the question about different parts used: I think it’s straightforward that the triple is what holds the forks together above the axle. If the fork legs distance is problematic then the triple’s precision is a prime suspect. IMA didn’t really specify non-stock fork distance so I just assume anybody running these triples would assume the fork distance and all the downstream setup is in stock spec. And would therefore notice if it is not. Maybe I’m wrong and I’m happy to learn why. I’m mostly here to learn :)




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