Woolich Racing Tune and lag

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Been running the Woolich auto tune with Z3 boxes and widebands from the get go. Not sure about Tuneboy I have shined away from them for years.
 
The switch is a micro toggle still searching for a micro push button so anyway if anyone plans to install the Z3 boxes, log box and all the cables the mono tails are useful.

My ignition delete stuff lives in the tail with custom harness also so be impossible without the extra space.
 

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Mick1976 said:
The switch is a micro toggle still searching for a micro push button so anyway if anyone plans to install the Z3 boxes, log box and all the cables the mono tails are useful.

My ignition delete stuff lives in the tail with custom harness also so be impossible without the extra space.
Click to expand...

Very creative how you installed the ZT3 . Protected from heat as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
So I went through this a few months ago. I also have the 16 Panigale R with the OEM Ti Akro exhaust. The narrow band O2 sensor positions are not quite right to accommodate the longer/ wider wideband O2 sensors. It's not a big deal as they can be re positioned slightly to make them fit. I believe the lag that you are talking about has something to do with the cams. The power really hits starting at 7000 RPM or so and is probably designed that was for racing. Its my understanding that a full race exhaust does address this and gives a bit more midrange improvement over the stock exhaust.

I did the full Woolich auto tune set up and am pretty pleased with it. I can probably send the flash/FI tune to you if you want.
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Oh ...., I just saw the date on the original post.........

I will add that the switch solves the problem of powering off the Log box in between logging sessions. Since there is always power going to it when its plugged in, it only recognizes the initial power up to differentiate logged data. So basically if you ride it, turn the bike off, then turn the bike on again and ride it, the log box will not recognize the 2nd ride as the log box never had the power cut to it. The external switch solves this issue. Or you can just unplug the box after is saves the data then plug it back in and you are good tyo go.
 
Hey Bryan yep the stock exhaust requires the bungs to be welded on and placement is bad. I am running the full Akro race exhaust the placement is correct as well the wideband drop right in no mods. The switch is definitely convenient.
 
I do seem to remember long time ago with initially starting the bike and the log box not flashing both green and red lights so believe it was due to the configuration settings. Like you said the external switch definitely makes things convenient.

Did you ever look at your ignition maps? They do change when logging new maps so hopefully the auto tune is working in that department.
 
Crickets. @billetman last seen today, last posted a long time ago, joined a decade ago. Did you find a way to get rid of the dip in the torque curve (other than buying a V4)???

I don’t think it’s 100% possible. @Mick1976 says he’s done it. Would love to see that dyno chart : )

I do not believe it’s the cam specs that create the dip (although they prolly contribute and changing where they are in relation to the crank (cam timing) could remove some of it). I think it mostly comes from the bore to stroke ratio, the rod length to stroke ratio, and a combo of the throttle bodies, ports, and valves having such a large cross sectional area/and the terrible EVT map that is both stock and in the up map that comes with the R. I think the EVT map is exaggerating all the mechanical factors I just mentioned

Would love to hear what you have tried Billet man and see what results you have achieved. Would love to see that dyno chart too Mick : )
 
A dyno is not needed with running the Woolich live imaging mapping platform. There is nothing else out there close to achieving great results so after logging data 3-4 times and correcting the A/F this is what you will get. Far from the stock map, linear and no flat spots wont get any better then this.

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Don14R said:
Crickets. @billetman last seen today, last posted a long time ago, joined a decade ago. Did you find a way to get rid of the dip in the torque curve (other than buying a V4)???

I don’t think it’s 100% possible. @Mick1976 says he’s done it. Would love to see that dyno chart : )

I do not believe it’s the cam specs that create the dip (although they prolly contribute and changing where they are in relation to the crank (cam timing) could remove some of it). I think it mostly comes from the bore to stroke ratio, the rod length to stroke ratio, and a combo of the throttle bodies, ports, and valves having such a large cross sectional area/and the terrible EVT map that is both stock and in the up map that comes with the R. I think the EVT map is exaggerating all the mechanical factors I just mentioned

Would love to hear what you have tried Billet man and see what results you have achieved. Would love to see that dyno chart too Mick : )
Click to expand...
 
Let’s see the ETV map

Not a 3D graph but the right side of th

At what rpm does the thing actually see wot and how many rpm from 60-100%???

Mine with the Termi up map was only seeing about half til 7500 then snap wide open

I’ll post a pic of it later
 
I believe the Bazzaz Z-AFM Self Mapper is very similar to the Woolich setup. They do have a solution for the 16R.
 
Mick1976 said:
Has anyone got any feedback from Woolich on ignition map stuff? I will check with them see if got anything new.
Click to expand...
What do you mean? The software lets the tuner do whatever he or she wants with timing

You want Woolich to tell you what timing is gonna work best for you?

How long ago did you get that pic of the 3d fuel graph? Posting that same pic over and over only creates suspicion. It doesn’t help anyone

Maybe you are better off sticking to the fiberglass stuff?
 

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