2013 1199R track bike project

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Hey guys I'm just jumping in to say thanks to all contributing to this threat. It has me thinking a lot about how to proceed in my endeavors. First things first, I need to get some body work. My R took a beating from flying debris last track day.

Seriously I am running dunlops and I have a long left hand sweeper, slightly inclined and I feel I am getting pumping from the rear which is bad enough to cause me to back off the throttle. It seems to have gotten bad after putting a turn and a half in on the rear preload to raise the back and cause the bike to turn in better. ( was that a run on sentence?)

I am also seeing two strips in the rear tire, about and inch wide about 2 inches from the edges, ( the rest of the tire is clean). Someone told me it's the TC kicking in and that I'm "enjoying" the rear tire to much. Thoughts?

Sorry to hijack the thread.
 
changin preload to change geometry does not sound right to me.. haven't heard the DTC causing stipes in tires story yet... setup of the Pani seems to be a very integrated thing from what i pick up... never a just one thing adjustment...

but the topic i s interesting enough to warrant it's own thread, no? :)
 
Thamer said:
Hey guys I'm just jumping in to say thanks to all contributing to this threat. It has me thinking a lot about how to proceed in my endeavors. First things first, I need to get some body work. My R took a beating from flying debris last track day.

Seriously I am running dunlops and I have a long left hand sweeper, slightly inclined and I feel I am getting pumping from the rear which is bad enough to cause me to back off the throttle. It seems to have gotten bad after putting a turn and a half in on the rear preload to raise the back and cause the bike to turn in better. ( was that a run on sentence?)

I am also seeing two strips in the rear tire, about and inch wide about 2 inches from the edges, ( the rest of the tire is clean). Someone told me it's the TC kicking in and that I'm "enjoying" the rear tire to much. Thoughts?

Sorry to hijack the thread.
Click to expand...

TC sounds about right . I have seen this on a few different bikes not just the 1199.
 
wilkson said:
TC sounds about right . I have seen this on a few different bikes not just the 1199.
Click to expand...

Well I'm thinking to take out the turns I put in for rear preload and trying to lengthen the linkage and see if I get similar result on steering. I'm thinking that more dampening in the rear will cure the pumping. I want to try and clean up the TC tearing cause it's wearing the tire life quickly. I'm also going to try and adjust the EBC and see if that will smooth out corner entry. Did someone here recommend setting 3 over 2?
 
Remember, EBC is different than TC in that the lower the number, the more engine braking you have. I run 3 usually which is the lowest and I highly suggest that unless you are just starting at track riding, you run it low also...
 
to stop pumping , try increasing the rebound.. and as to EBC... it will smoothen mid to exit rather than entry... as entry will me more prone to brake lever input... once you let go of the brakes, the bike rolls on and does not need throttle input to compensate the engine braking further to stay at speed.. and het thorttle response not being its strongest point, this helps...

this said , there is now a school that is back on EBC level 1 to maximise braking before tipping in, then turning in very quick and shortly. it is a less smooth approach, more point and shoot but is said to maximise the use of the flickability of the pani.. using this quality to be leant over for the shortest of times... ..
 
kope999R said:
to stop pumping , try increasing the rebound.. and as to EBC... it will smoothen mid to exit rather than entry... as entry will me more prone to brake lever input... once you let go of the brakes, the bike rolls on and does not need throttle input to compensate the engine braking further to stay at speed.. and het thorttle response not being its strongest point, this helps...

this said , there is now a school that is back on EBC level 1 to maximise braking before tipping in, then turning in very quick and shortly. it is a less smooth approach, more point and shoot but is said to maximise the use of the flickability of the pani.. using this quality to be leant over for the shortest of times... ..
Click to expand...

Sounds stupid .
 
I like loose and I tend to be a little swappy on entry under load and hard braking. Setting the EBC to 1 has the bike WAY to slow on entry. If you want even more loose, ... the rear brake on entry and set the slide...

EBC on 1 as Kobe mentioned makes throttle management tougher as the engine does more braking when releasing the throttle. But it will always depend on rider style and the way they want to have the bike react on entry that determines EBC setting. I can see some guys trying to set the EBC at the max, but again... I think it is more for the starting out novice racer on a faster bike and maybe a track day guy. All I know, when set on 1, it sucked. Bad.
 
kope999R said:
to stop pumping , try increasing the rebound.. and as to EBC... it will smoothen mid to exit rather than entry... as entry will me more prone to brake lever input... once you let go of the brakes, the bike rolls on and does not need throttle input to compensate the engine braking further to stay at speed.. and het thorttle response not being its strongest point, this helps...

this said , there is now a school that is back on EBC level 1 to maximise braking before tipping in, then turning in very quick and shortly. it is a less smooth approach, more point and shoot but is said to maximise the use of the flickability of the pani.. using this quality to be leant over for the shortest of times... ..
Click to expand...

EBC in mode 1 only if you prefer make slide before cornering... My level don't let me try this... Mode 3 is perfect for human... :D
 
Hi kope999R

Do You have a link to where You've got the switchgear/buttons?

Nice bike by the way :)
 
Eagle4 said:
EBC in mode 1 only if you prefer make slide before cornering... My level don't let me try this... Mode 3 is perfect for human... :D
Click to expand...

Slides perfectly with it on the lowest setting. I think that the EBC on 1 and trying to slide is disruptive and not what I would suggest. EBC 3 is not recommended for the first timer as it is the least and will not assist in slowing the bike like set on the highest (1)...
 
The smoother you are with everything, corner entry, throttle roll on AND roll off, brakes (front and rear) and when and how you apply them are all keys to getting the suspension in the best possible position. Setting the EBC higher, say to 3 versus 1, will result in less transfer of weight to the front tire where you have the least amount of contact patch. Smooth is the key, and a bike out of line is harder to turn and not in an ideal position with respect to any of these points.

Look at the smoothest riders in the world, they are usually the fastest, save anyone riding a RCV, ha!

I race Supermoto too, and yes you slide the rear but once again it's all about smooth and I don't slide the rear on corner entry on the 1199R. It does slide on exit. Very few people can slide a rear truly under control on one of these superbikes and it's not likely to make you any faster, it just allows you to square off the corner so you lean less.

On SP tires the TC should be at 3, on Dunlop or Pirelli slicks 1 works very well and the EBC should be at 3, but if you want more engine braking 2 or 1 will give it to you but makes it work more like a 1098 or 1198 in settings 2 and 1 respectively.

There are some real advantages to be gained with small changes to geometry via spring rate, ride height and gearing.

I'm helping some folks on here, PM me if interested. This information is not free but well worth it.
 

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