Ducati Panigale V4 916 25 Anniversario Build Thread

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Hello Torrific,
Thank you for your kind compliment.

By the way, if you are using your current stock Brembo Stylema brake caliper, the correct/recommended size for the master cylinder is the 17RCS Corsa Corta because our stock Brembo Stylema brake caliper only have 4x30mm piston size.
The 19RCS Corsa Corta is too large and will make your brake lever feel hard/woody when you press it.
Here is the link that mention this recommended sizing when Brembo launch the 17RCS Corsa Corta: BREMBO PRESENTS THE 17 & 15RCS CORSA CORTA

My 17RCS Corsa Corta brake master cylinder already arrived a few weeks ago, and I plan to install it either this weekend or in two weeks:
IMG_7928.JPGIMG_7926.JPG


I am also thinking (in the future) to upgrade my front brake caliper to GP4-MS (street friendly version with piston seal for street application) and the piston size for the GP4-MS are also 4x30mm so the 17RCS Corsa Corta will still work.
I just wish they offer the GP4-MS in the older style Titanium/Hard Anodized color instead of the current Nickel Plated color...
100 mm 'GP4-MS' Radial Billet Caliper Kit

1557398888662GP4-MS1.jpg
 
I spent a good amount of time this week, researching several Coating process for metal. It's like being a college student again but just more fun :p

Initially I was set on doing TiN (Titanium Nitride) coating for the aluminum rear suspension bracket (like the coating on the Ohlins forks lower tube and many golden coatings on drill bits) however, I learned the PVD TiN coating process is done at temperature of around 800F and that would weaken or alter the strength of the aluminum. So, I will still use regular anodizing for the rear aluminum suspension bracket and also for the upcoming rear BrakeTech rotor carrier and front Motocorse hub.
(remember: no Type 3 mil sped anodizing, those are too thick, I learned the hard way when I coat my custom Brembo rotor hat for my Honda Fit project and having problem with the F40 style floating hardware)

But for parts that is NOT aluminum, I decided to go ahead and perform TiN coating on all the Grade 12.9 steel bolts, nuts and washers (including the bumax and 316 stainless steel washers).
The TiN coating is only about 2 micron thick on average so it won't effect the thread of the bolts/nuts.

I just ship all those bolts to the TiN coating company, oh, almost forgot, the TiN coating company also provide polishing service so hopefully I got them back golden, polished and shiny in 1 or 2 weeks :D

This wikipedia page have more info regarding TiN coating:
Titanium nitride - Wikipedia

Now... back to anodizing the aluminum parts, the anodizing company that I would like to work with, do not offer polishing, and one of my aluminum rear suspension bracket had press marked from the swing arm when I was trying to remove them, this means I need to learn on polishing aluminum to remove this imperfection ;)
about coating....the ones on showa, Ohlins are all proprietary, to eliminating stiction. so, if you found some method, i would like to invest in your business venture, we can make money!!
 
Hello Torrific,
Thank you for your kind compliment.

By the way, if you are using your current stock Brembo Stylema brake caliper, the correct/recommended size for the master cylinder is the 17RCS Corsa Corta because our stock Brembo Stylema brake caliper only have 4x30mm piston size.
The 19RCS Corsa Corta is too large and will make your brake lever feel hard/woody when you press it.
Here is the link that mention this recommended sizing when Brembo launch the 17RCS Corsa Corta: BREMBO PRESENTS THE 17 & 15RCS CORSA CORTA

My 17RCS Corsa Corta brake master cylinder already arrived a few weeks ago, and I plan to install it either this weekend or in two weeks:
View attachment 32076View attachment 32077


I am also thinking (in the future) to upgrade my front brake caliper to GP4-MS (street friendly version with piston seal for street application) and the piston size for the GP4-MS are also 4x30mm so the 17RCS Corsa Corta will still work.
I just wish they offer the GP4-MS in the older style Titanium/Hard Anodized color instead of the current Nickel Plated color...
100 mm 'GP4-MS' Radial Billet Caliper Kit

1557398888662GP4-MS1.jpg
thank you for the reference.

i was thinking the same, 16mm is a bit softside, but...I'm learning to like it. I wouldn't mind to go 17mm.
 
thank you for the reference.
i was thinking the same, 16mm is a bit softside, but...I'm learning to like it. I wouldn't mind to go 17mm.

Hi TsaiCo,
The 16RCS Corsa Corta (16mm) is for the CLUTCH Master Cylinder, the ideal/recommended size for our stock brake caliper is RCS17 Corsa Corta (17mm).



about coating....the ones on showa, Ohlins are all proprietary, to eliminating stiction. so, if you found some method, i would like to invest in your business venture, we can make money!!

Regarding the Ohlins, I don't think it will be that hard to figure out, I mean there are only so much variation of PVD method Physical vapor deposition - Wikipedia
and with some experimenting to adjust the shade of the gold (my TiN coating provider told me he can altered the shade of gold if I want to).
But it might be hard to make too much money as TiN coating provider since the capital equipment is expensive, and the market is not that big at least from what I believe after contacting several TiN coating provider...
They are more in line of machine shop business...
I am also on the watch out for any potential business opportunity (not selling bike parts though) :p
 
The Carbon Fiber Belly Pan from Peter Lieb arrived today, as usual, Peter Lieb's quality is second to none, also came with all the bolt/nuts/washer but I will replace them all with ProTi Titanium hardware :D
IMG_7941.JPGIMG_7943.JPGIMG_7944.JPG

Talking about hardware, over a week ago, I spent countless hours looking for the right Convex Spacer at the right size and the right finish for my STM Timing Cover... and I found them... from... a large UK company (with a US subsidiary) that supply hardware for furniture industry. Funny how I found their UK company first before being redirected to their US subsidiary. :p

Minimum quantity order is 25 pieces, so it looks like I will have a life time supply of M6 Convex Spacer :D
I choose the one with 316 Stainless steel material (although they also came in 303 Stainless Steel) just to make sure they look nice.
IMG_7945.JPG

This spacer act as an adapter that allow me to use a Normal ProTi Titanium Bolt (with flat head) eventhough the STM have Concave holes, and below is before and after comparison.

LEFT picture BEFORE, and RIGHT picture after
IMG_7917.JPGIMG_7948.JPG

The left / before picture shows the ProTi Titanium Torx Concave bolt that is FLUSH with the STM cover, they are nicer than the stock Ducati socket hex but still not look good enough, I think...
I love the Protruding proud look of the bolts on the RIGHT / AFTER picture, now it has "CHARACTER" :p
However, those bolts on the Right/After picture will be replaced again with the correct length (15mm) and the 1mm smaller diameter of the head (12mm instead of the current 13mm), I will order them tonight...
Still same style from ProTi, then it will be Perfect :D
 
By the way, I don't know why... but somehow I keep finding things that can improve the "cosmetic" aspect of my bike...
As you all know, my bike is now literally naked and it's on my living room all the time, so when I am not watching TV (or while watching TV), my eyes can't help but wonder to look at the "naked" shape :p

I somehow found my eyes focusing on the solid/hardline part of the brake line (and also the braided brakeline) and thought there must be a way do make it look better...
(again not to make it to perform better in engineering/weight wise but simply just to make it looks better).

I remember the good old days when I was selling tons of Kevlar braided hose from Goodridge to my Aprilia customer, and that make me start checking the current Goodridge offering again.

Turn out Goodridge still offer Kevlar braided hose (700 series) unfortunately they don't offer them in -2AN size anymore, only -3AN but which is still ok, however I need to find a way to connect the Kevlar braided hose with the solid/hardline piping.
(which I already did just not crimped like the Ducati did though).

I am sure some of you wonder why solid/hardline piping?, After all, Fren Tubo sell several nice kits with different hose and fitting material (including their Carbotech, Stainless Steel or Kevlar braided hose)...

Well, that is because no matter how good your stainless steel braided or kevlar braided or carbon fiber braided PTFE hose, they will still expand more under pressure than a solid/hardline piping.
And in our Panigale V4, the brake lines are longer because every line (front and rear) need to go to ABS module before going to caliper, and thus the expansion effect if I replace all those hardline with regular braided lines will be more pronounced.

Of course, if you bypass the ABS and going straight from your Master cylinder to the caliper, then the much shorter distance of the braided line will have less expansion under pressure effect, so a hardline will not benefit that much plus, you need the "flex" around the steering and swing arm area anyway.

I could understand that some people might complain that the ABS give lack of "feel" but I think this is more because the rider prefer not to adjust to the new "feel" with using ABS.

Below is a copy and paste of Cycle World interview with Brembo engineer on MotoGP braking, and I copy and paste the paragraph that directly related to ABS.
Note this interview was done in 2014 and I sure more progress had been made with ABS since then:
MotoGP: Faster And Faster, Part 1

CW: In 2016, ABS will be obligatory on all bikes sold in the European market. ABS is prohibited in Formula 1 and MotoGP. What is your opinion of ABS in racing?
L.B.: ABS is perfect for the street rider, but in racing, it should be the rider who controls. Probably ABS would be safer, but racing is also a test of the rider, and so for the show, I don't think ABS would be good.


CW: How often do you find yourself locking the front brakes?
A.D.: I try, of course, never to lock because it is very dangerous. Not just to lose the front, but you have to release and brake again, and this upsets the bike. Also, you go too deep. In Argentina, I locked the brakes several times, and this hurt my performance very much. There was not so much grip, and for me, when I cannot brake late and hard, I suffer in my lap times. We are really on the limit all the time on the brakes, so it depends completely on the judgment and feel of the rider because it is so easy to lock the front or lift the rear wheel.

CW: What about the rear brake? How much and how hard do you use it and what do you use it for?
A.D.: I use the rear brake quite a lot. In MotoGP, we use the rear brake on the exit to control the spinning. If you use the rear brake well, you can use less traction control because you can tame a big spin by reducing it but not eliminating it. I use the rear a lot also on the braking even though with the four-stroke there is enough engine braking so that many riders do not use the rear. But this is my style, and I always use the rear brake.


Because of the reasons above, if I upgrade my brake line (for any reasons), I will NOT bypass the ABS. Some will disagree with me,
but I am confident that ABS like all the driver aids, if allowed in MotoGP, will help the rider stop faster.
It might not be good for entertainment value, but no doubt ABS will be able to help any rider stop their bike faster (and most importantly safer) on the track.

If anyone is curious, try to disconnect your ABS in your car, then brake as hard and as good as you could while preventing wheel lock up, and then do the same with ABS and see which one stop shorter and straighter.
Ducati ABS is even better because it is a "Cornering ABS" designed specifically for 2 wheel application: The breaks of the future: Bosch Cornering ABS

another links about using ABS (but in car racing):
https://www.bosch-motorsport.com/content/downloads/Raceparts/Resources/pdf/Operation Manual_148638347_ABS_M5_Kit_Porsche_Cup.pdf
https://www.manthey-racing.de/Installation_Manual_ABS_991_GT3_Cup_Gen_2.pdf

Back to upgrading my brake line :D
While doing more research, I found the cooper solid/hardline in 3/16 size (exactly the same as our hardline/solid line size) or -3AN equivalent.
I think this cooper line left picture (with proper clear coat treatment to prevent oxidation and perhaps some polishing pre-treatment) will looks gorgeous against the BLACK background of the swing arm (right picture):
Copper Brake Pipe 3/16 inch | CBP-3 | Merlin Motorsport

cbp_3.jpg
IMG_7953.JPG

So.... I think I am going to do this cooper solid hardline (cosmetic) upgrade :p in combination with the 700 Series Kevlar Goodridge braided line where it need to be able to flex, and stainless steel AN fittings of course...
and maybe some Staubli dry connect...
Bending a solid cooper hardline eventhough easier than stainless steel hardline, will still be much harder than just using a flex braided line completely... and I will need to buy the right bending and flaring tool and It might slow down this project more... but I just received information that Brembo is delaying production of my (paid in full) front 330mm T-Drive rotor until end of September 2020 anyway so why not :D
 
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You may also want to call up Goodridge and some of these other companies you mentioned. Most of them have a 'Custom' Department that can handle fabrication of any brake hose you want to your specification.
 
You may also want to call up Goodridge and some of these other companies you mentioned. Most of them have a 'Custom' Department that can handle fabrication of any brake hose you want to your specification.

Hi CoolSparky,

I did talked to Merlin Motorsport in UK, I knew them when I bought some parts for my previous custom Brembo 6 piston upgrade on my Honda Fit, and I still plan to order the 700 Goodridge Kevlar line from them (including fabrication service crimped with the fitting).
But Merlin cannot crimp the Braided Kevlar line directly to the solid/hardline like the way Ducati did... and I don't think anyone can either...

I actually want to re-experience assembling Goodridge stainless steel braided hose with the removable fitting (like what I did when I represent Goodridge in my country of origin back in the early 2000's),
however, at that time, I never purchase/use the crimping tool from Goodridge before and for this project, I need to use crimping since the 700 Kevlar hose can only be used with Crimping (no reuseable fitting)... so I will let Merlin Motorsport UK perform the crimping.

Anyway, because of that I decided to do the hardline fabrication on my own for learning and experience.

2 years ago, I also had some brake tube bending experience when I need to bend an adapter (hard) tubing between a larger 1inch master cylinder from JDM Honda Odyssey, but it was just a short tubing adapter, so I will need to learn more.
Below is my post about this:
My Front Brembo Gran Turismo 6 Piston Type III Rotor - Unofficial Honda FIT Forums

I still have that tool for bending (Eastwood also, picture below), wonder if it fit the 3/16" tubing though... I need to look for that bending tool, must be somewhere in one of the boxes in my garage :D
IMG_3999.JPG

Actually, from what I found so far, the easiest way to order custom high quality braided brake hose is through HEL Performance UK:
https://www.helperformance.com/custom-braided-brake-lines
They have this online tool to spec our custom order brake line very user friendly.
HEL brake line is very good quality with stainless steel fitting, but for this project, I really want to have Goodridge Kevlar line just for sentimental reason as usual because I used to sell a lot of them, so no HEL this time but back to Goodridge :p
Sometimes I wonder what happened to all my old contacts at Goodridge Head office in Exeter UK... they all was very nice, and they accept custom order for some of the Aprilia scooter brake line (SR125) from my napkin drawing... the good old day...
maybe some of them already become top management by now... well anyway, I don't want to bother them for a very small order so I think I will just buy from Merlin crimped and assembled for the 700 Kevlar hose.

By the way, below is the picture of my HEL brake line for my final part that connect to my Brembo 6 piston on my Honda Fit:
DSC09522.JPGDSC09523.JPG

Oh, I also assembled this 910 Aramid (Kevlar) braided Goodridge hose for fuel and oil line on my Honda Fit a few years ago but this one can be assembled using reusable fitting without crimping:
Project Setrab Oil Cooler plus SPAL Radiator Fan - Unofficial Honda FIT Forums

7183-project-setrab-oil-cooler-plus-spal-radiator-fan-80-img_2115_9792ea89667771f35203a2929aa722637fc7c2ab.jpg


This is going to be FUN :D
 
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More than a month ago, I purchased this paints:
IMG_7959.JPG

The reason was because the Ducati by Rizoma Brake Lever Protector have this very nice RED Anodized Ring on the the base of the handlebar weight,
but the Rizoma Brake Lever Protector (non Ducati by Rizoma) that I purchase to become the Clutch Lever Protector do NOT have the RED Anodized ring.
So I was planning to use the paint above (suppose to be able to replicate Anodize color) and if fail to match, I was planning to anodize it...
but anodizing just a small part like that will be not economical because anodized usually charge per run and not per part...
Picture below:

IMG_7956.JPG

Not too long after I purchased the paint above, I found a Chinese Made Brake/Clutch lever protector on eBay with a nice RED Anodized base ring, so I order it.
I am NOT sure that it will fit, but the price is low enough that it's worth it, and finally Mr. Postman deliver this today:

IMG_7955.JPG

Amazingly, the thread on that RED anodized base ring, MATCH the Rizoma thread and although the color is not 100% match... well it close enough for my work :p
I still need to GRIND the back of the base ring though to match the special mounting bolt system from Ducati...
Picture below:
IMG_7957.JPG
 
Weekend Updates:

I install the rest of the ENGINE ProTi Titanium Bolts, this time for the lower belly pan.
I have "extra" ProTi Titanium Bolts, so I also install for the Oil Filter Cover (the original lower belly pan bolt from ProTi does not include this 3 bolts).
I also replace several mounting bolts like to mount the plastic Canister on the left side or the housing for the right exhaust valve with the "extra" ProTi Titanium Bolts.
Oh, also the rear cylinder coil bolts (and I will order more bolts for that center cylinder head breather cover). I think I also going to remove the upper radiator so I can access the front cylinder coil too.
I think I need to be reasonable and not get too carried away so, I will put a limit that anything larger M4 bolts on this bike that I can access easily will be all replaced with ProTi Titanium Bolts or nuts. :D

IMG_8002.JPGIMG_8003.JPG
IMG_8009.JPGIMG_8010.JPG



Then, since I plan to install my 17RCS Corsa Corta Master Cylinder along with the Bike Sport Development Switch next week, I decided to DRAIN all brake fluid directly from the ABS. (I also plan to replace the Banjo bolt on the ABS with ProTi Titanium Banjo bolts plus my new obsession with the cooper nickel solid/hardline upgrade :p), so if I start draining it now, hopefully by next weekend, all brake fluid will be mostly drained... (still need to be careful if some left in the brake line, don't want to have any chemical marks from the brake fluid).
IMG_8004.JPGIMG_8005.JPG
IMG_8006.JPGIMG_8007.JPG
IMG_8008.JPG

Continue below due to 10 pictures limit per post...
 
Then, Inspired by @Raul1976 who polished his front sprocket washer, and got tired looking at my front sprocket washer with lots of rust marks...
I use some sand paper, and Brasso and polished mine too:
IMG_7989.JPGIMG_7990.JPG

However my goal is to make it look like it was made from Machined Aluminum (thus the lines on the surfaces) plus I want to make sure it will NEVER rust again,
so I use the Anodized Look Paint, borrow my son's amateur paint booth (from Amazon cartoon box) with my son's teaching me to hang it with a sewing thread (belong to my wife) and voila :p
IMG_7991.JPGIMG_7992.JPG

I LOVE the RED Anodized Machined Aluminum Looks much better than the RUST (real rust) looks hahaha :D
This will give good contrast with the Sitta Front Sprocket, Original Ducati Shiny Bolt, and 3D Gold Chain, oh and it will be inside a Carbon Front Sprocket Cover so it will mimic the look of the Right Dry Clutch Carbon Cover with the STM Dry Clutch center part in the similar Red Anodized Color looks.

IMG_7995.JPGIMG_7996.JPG



Next, I decide to take out my Dashboard so I can measure every bolts and nuts around that area to be replaced by Gold ProTi Titanium Bolts or Nuts,
and while the Dashboard is out, this is perfect timing to install the CNC Racing Screen Protector properly.
The CND Racing Screen Protector came complete with cleaning cloth and tools (like credit card) to help with the air bubble.
It also came with FOUR yes (4) screen protector so I will have some spare in case I won a lottery and buy a few more bikes :p
IMG_7997.JPGIMG_7998.JPG


Test Fit only, so I know the border and I decided to use the "ULTRA CLEAR" version instead of the "ANTI GLARE" since in my living room, Glare will never be a problem :p
IMG_7999.JPG





Then use a DILUTED Hand Soap so I can "align" the screen protector for PERFECT CENTER location then use the "credit card" like tool
to squeeze out all bubble. The picture below show after installing the CNC Racing Screen Protector, but I have not remove the upper most thin plastic layer and now still letting it dry to ensure strong bonding,
that way, when I remove the upper most thin plastic layer, the CNC Racing Screen Protector will not move.

IMG_8001.JPG

OH, by the way,
I am selling my BONAMICI Racing Dashboard Protector Silver Color (Still Brand New Sealed in the Original Packaging), just in case anyone is interested.
I am planing to order the same one but with custom laser marking, which mean at least waiting for another 3 months at a minimum :p
Below is the link to my "Classified" Post:
For Sale - BONAMICI RACING Ducati Panigale V4 / StreetFighter V4 Dashboard Cover Protection DCP03 SILVER Color

I am also selling the used Panigale V4 Lower Left and Right Fairings since I will not need it to make mold for my Lower Belly Pan Carbon Fiber anymore now that I already purchased from Peter Lieb:
For Sale - Ducati Panigale V4 V4S 2018 2019 LOWER FAIRING RED OEM Genuine
 
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1. The only way to get the screen protector perfectly lined up is to remove the screen like that.

2. every time I open this thread it’s deeper down the rabbit hole and I absolutely love it

3. is there a special tool or technique to fill empty (air filled) brake lines? just fill and bleed like normal until the levers feel good? I hope your using RBF660 or another high quality fluid
 
1. The only way to get the screen protector perfectly lined up is to remove the screen like that.

2. every time I open this thread it’s deeper down the rabbit hole and I absolutely love it

3. is there a special tool or technique to fill empty (air filled) brake lines? just fill and bleed like normal until the levers feel good? I hope your using RBF660 or another high quality fluid

Hi DucatiKev,

Yes, I already purchased several bottles of Motul RBF660 a few weeks ago :p
I originally want to use Castrol React SRF, however they ran out a few weeks ago...
IMG_8011.JPG


I currently have this tool which I used to bleed the brake on my car, this system is PUSHING the brake fluid via the brake reservoir, however,
I experience leak so I worry if it leak again, it will spray all the brake fluid to the bike, so I am not going to use it.
0390_d66cd6f6-c6f1-4980-aece-16f0f2914184.jpg


I used to have VACULA (Vacuum Brake Bleeder) in my Aprilia shop a long time ago, but that require powerful compressor. It sucks from the bleeder valve using vacuum so it is safer.
I used it a lot since Goodridge braided line was one of the best selling parts in my shop at that time and all the clients want us to install and bleed it (which means more money from install cost for me,
and a chance to put Goodridge sticker on my client's bike so free promotion while my clients also love the Goodridge sticker too) :D

Still, this time, I think I am just rely on Stahlbus bleeder valve on both the Master and the Caliper, meaning a lot of manual pumping, well thats ok, so my forearm can be big again :p
 
This late afternoon, UPS sent me an email saying a shipment that supposed to arrived today will be delayed to tomorrow, so I decided to take my family grocery shopping right after 5pm.
I just return and saw an email from UPS now saying the shipment had arrived and left on my front door. I rush out, worry, hoping no one steal it from the porch, and good thing its there,
so I open it up and happy to see the DISASSEMBLED BrakeTech Rear Rotors :D. I asked BrakeTech to ship them DISASSEMBLED because I plan to anodized the Carrier (center part) in Gold Color:



IMG_8021.JPG

Another shipment also arrived from UK today, which is a TITANIUM spacer for some brake caliper that I don't know, however, it have the PERFECT size for my project to replace the boring factory handlebar bolt.
This spacer will enable me to use a M10 ProTi Titanium Bolt in Gold color (with thread insert to adapt from M16 to M10), so now I just have to wait for the ProTi bolts to arrive.
IMG_8020.JPG


I also replace the rear pinch bolt late last night to ProTi:
IMG_8012.JPGIMG_8013.JPG

Take out the front headlight so I can measure all the bolts and nuts behind the dashboard and measure the equivalent ProTi Titanium Bolt/Nuts for them:
IMG_8014.JPGIMG_8015.JPG

While doing the above, I notice the way the steering lock works, and I decide to add Rubber Vacuum Plug so it wont create scratch, left picture show just left side rubber plug, and right picture shows both with rubber vacuum plug:

IMG_8016.JPGIMG_8017.JPG

I also found out that to replace the bolts holding the bracket of the horn will require me to take out the lower triple clamp and since I already bought a ProTi bolt kit for the horn... and I don't want to waste it...
so now I will need to remove the lower triple clamp... hmmm maybe... I can do more than that... while I took it out :D
 
I know you are not into weight loss but I made the horn bracket out of a couple of layers of carbon fibre and I replaced the standard OEM horn with one that is much lighter but just as loud. Of course I fitted Ti bolts on both ends. One of which was custom made by a forum member here. The OEM bracket is heavy and not so pretty. I cannot remember the weight loss but is was quite a bit and cost next to nothing. You could even anodise the bracket a different colour. :)
 
I know you are not into weight loss but I made the horn bracket out of a couple of layers of carbon fibre and I replaced the standard OEM horn with one that is much lighter but just as loud. Of course I fitted Ti bolts on both ends. One of which was custom made by a forum member here. The OEM bracket is heavy and not so pretty. I cannot remember the weight loss but is was quite a bit and cost next to nothing. You could even anodise the bracket a different colour. :)

Hi Brad,
That is a very good idea !!! :D

I somehow did not think about that... you are right,...
well, that means few more hours for me to find the right horn and the right bracket (either carbon or anodize, hmmm I tend toward anodize but those needs to be thin and strong... so maybe carbon???
Well I am confuse now (and hungry too)... so I better go eat some home made noodle cooked by my wife then have more energy to think about this...

Thanks so much Brad :D
 

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