First Impressions.... Is it supposed to ride this chuggy?

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tjprattctr

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Nov 9, 2014
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So, picked up my 1199s today. Only been on one very short ride. But here is my question. I read that it doesn't like to go slow and can chug/hesitate a little. And that couldn't be more true. It did NOT like going under 30, and seemed chuggy. Could it be the EBC?
Also, it was a 10 minute ride and it got HOT lol.
I knew this was what I was getting in to. Coming from cheap jap bikes and beemers that were butter smooth, I thought something was wrong with this thing lol. Just making sure i'm not crazy.
Thanks guys. And sorry for the newbie questions!
 
Welcome and congrats on the S!

EBC does make the throttle action more jerky at slow speeds. It helped me to change the setting so there's less EBC. I also changed the rear sprocket to 41T but not sure how much effect this change would have on the throttle response. Mine seems good now or I'm just used to it....

What heat? Lol
 
Slip the clutch more and generally just go faster. The L-twin requires a bit more finesse.

Gearing change helps too. Going to a 41T sprocket seemed to help.

EBC at 0 is a bit better, but I like the stability it adds at level 1 for hard downshifts.

The attitude and sound is what makes a Ducati. Jap bikes, and I'll include the BWM in this...are very clinical. They're great, but they seem to lack character.

You'll be fine...I took my cylinder head heat guards off. Gah. What an abomination.
 
yup it is supposed to be chuggy. if its not chuggy during low speeds or until 4000rpm, something is wrong with your bike=)

Oh and it must be hot too. all Panigale's must be hot at low speeds
 
Lol. Thanks you guys. I was starting to worry something was wrong with her lol. i feel better now
 
tjprattctr said:
So, picked up my 1199s today. Only been on one very short ride. But here is my question. I read that it doesn't like to go slow and can chug/hesitate a little. And that couldn't be more true. It did NOT like going under 30, and seemed chuggy. Could it be the EBC?
Also, it was a 10 minute ride and it got HOT lol.
I knew this was what I was getting in to. Coming from cheap jap bikes and beemers that were butter smooth, I thought something was wrong with this thing lol. Just making sure i'm not crazy.
Thanks guys. And sorry for the newbie questions!
Click to expand...

The 1199S/R by default is geared for high end. Some folks (inc I ) change sprocket to increase low end power (41T). Run your bike in, and then take it above 7,000 RPM and you will get what it is about - basically like riding a lion with a piece of rope around its nut sack. Ducatis are not smooth like other bikes, they are one of a kind ; definitely an acquired taste.
 
I was reading the manual I might have figured out part of it. I was in "Race" mode. The manual states that "Race" mode is direct power and not smooth. However, "Sport" mode is a smooth power. I'm going to try that tomorrow and see if there is a noticeable difference. Thank you all for the feedback. And thank you CaliDuc for the Lion image. I lol'd.
 
In simple terms, the difference in 195hi and 195lo is in how the electronic throttle modulates itself in the first 25% of its range.

I felt it was easier to be smooth with the bike at 195hi, it has a more direct feeling but I feel its easier to modulate.
 
These attributes you speak of are what makes the bike greaT!
One of the first things I did upon buy my 1199 was getting Xpel film added to the bike (this was due to riding with others on the road and not wanting to tear up the purdy paint). Next was the 'chuggy' feel and the heat. I went 1 tooth lower on the front sprocket and also flushed the system with engine ice. Both these items helped. After that, it was rapid bike race, this fully smoothed out the low end and jumpy feel of the throttle. I have also gotten used to it but it sure did help out a lot!

Congrats on the bike, no matter what, each time you ride it, you will leave with a smile on your face!
 
I am not sure this can make you feel better, but the Pani is much smoother than my Monster 1100 EVO at slow speeds :D
 
below 30mph? then you got a nice one. mine dont play nice at all if speed fall below 60 mph
 
lamb00j said:
These attributes you speak of are what makes the bike greaT!
One of the first things I did upon buy my 1199 was getting Xpel film added to the bike (this was due to riding with others on the road and not wanting to tear up the purdy paint). Next was the 'chuggy' feel and the heat. I went 1 tooth lower on the front sprocket and also flushed the system with engine ice. Both these items helped. After that, it was rapid bike race, this fully smoothed out the low end and jumpy feel of the throttle. I have also gotten used to it but it sure did help out a lot!

Congrats on the bike, no matter what, each time you ride it, you will leave with a smile on your face!
Click to expand...

What is"rapid bike race"?
And I've heard about changing the tooth set up. People tell me to change to a 41T on the rear, should I change the front also? What is the best setup for sprocket for smoothness?
 
Last edited:
tjprattctr said:
What is"rapid bike race"?
And I've heard about changing the tooth set up. People tell me to change to a 41T on the rear, should I change the front also? What is the best setup for sprocket for smoothness?
Click to expand...

The RapidBike Race module is a fuel tuning module that works wonders on the 1199, proven through dyno charts and subjective feel by many on here. There are many informative threads, just use the search function.

Long story short, 41T rear up from the OEM 39T is one method of changing the gearing to improve low-end performance (not to mention acceleration). It does require a new chain (or links if you can find them) because of the larger rear sprocket. Changing the front sprocket from the OEM 15T to 14T is another method, which is roughly equivalent to adding 3 teeth to the rear sprocket, but can be done by using the OEM chain and adjusting the eccentric adjuster to take out the slack. It is the much less expensive route and has also been proven by many on here.
 
The Dragon Lady's ride was primarily smoothed out by the following:
1) Full Termi's powerkoated inside and out (ceramic coating) and no packing.
2) PCV with Autotune (and two wideband lamdas)
3) 42 tooth rear sprocket.
4) Pro Stock race mapping.
5) I only use 195hi.
I am sure there are a lot of other contributory things but the above are the most important. She is butter smooth, but very sensitive and pulls progressively right from idle. :cool:
 
It is still new and not broken in. After break in mine did not mind running at 3000 rpm all day long with no problems. I did not have any problems going thru 15 mph school zones in first gear and clutch all the way out, no feathering.

Sport mode, 195hi, EBC=0, and full Termi exhaust.

As far as heat goes it is ok until the gauge says about 180 and above and you are doing less than 50 mph which is kind of hard to do in the summer time. Spring and Fall when the temps are 70 deg is a lot better as long as you stay out of stop and go traffic and keep the temp gauge below 180.

Also the hotter the temps the more chuggy it is especially in stop and go traffic where the fans are kicking in and you can feel the heat.
 
Last edited:
The ride by wire is a lot more sensitive to how you ride it (arms positions, for example) and bumps (also has to do with how your arms can absorp the bumps).
A lot of people ride with their elbows and arms straight at low speed (body fully upright), that when the bike hits a little bump or when you decelerate he body gets jerked a bit and causes exageration to the arm and hand movement. Because the throttle is very light, it tends to jerk more.
Bend your arms and hold the throttle like a screwdriver.

Also feather the clutch a bit to smoothen it.

And I disconnected my exhaust servo cable. It helped me a lot with 3k-5k range as it turned out. Not sure how legal this is in your area though.

Yep, it is a lot harder to ride than CBRs. A Lot!! But damn if it is not a lot more satisfying when you get it right!

And temperature? After a while it burnt all my leg nerves now I don't feel anything. It resulted in partial impotency too, I think. But I ride a panigale I don't care. I got 99 problems and ....... ain't one.
 
JeffD said:
The RapidBike Race module is a fuel tuning module that works wonders on the 1199, proven through dyno charts and subjective feel by many on here. There are many informative threads, just use the search function.

Long story short, 41T rear up from the OEM 39T is one method of changing the gearing to improve low-end performance (not to mention acceleration). It does require a new chain (or links if you can find them) because of the larger rear sprocket. Changing the front sprocket from the OEM 15T to 14T is another method, which is roughly equivalent to adding 3 teeth to the rear sprocket, but can be done by using the OEM chain and adjusting the eccentric adjuster to take out the slack. It is the much less expensive route and has also been proven by many on here.
Click to expand...


Yeah, what Jeff said
 

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