How to: change F to P on rear shock

The only bolt that actually has a removable nut is the one on the actual wishbone itself.

The "nuts" on the bottom that is connected to the engine and the top that is connected to the shock are built into the bracket.

mhaddad said:

I am trying to replace my suspension link with a gold ducabike one, I'm unable to unscrew that inner #4 bolt due to positioning. Not sure if that bolt and the link are one piece or two, it slides out, but not completely as it hits the exhaust. Any suggestion please?

Click to expand...

nice, thanks for the info.

I bought the bike from another rider and it was already set in the P position, not knowing too much about it, rode it for 5-mo. and the looked at the manual and it made more sense. I normally ride with the wife on the back and feel more comfortable with her on the back than I do riding by myself, feels better and more planted and confident.

The wife is gone for a work trip and decided to flip it to the f-position and take the bike out for a ride this week since the weather is finally starting to agree, first thing I noticed was that I can almost plant both my feet on the ground compared to before but I think might be reason of not extending the link to compensate for its new position (was fully closed).

The bike definitely feels much better compared to the the P setting around the short ride I took but will write back more once I adjust the rod.

I basically ended up just putting the jack with some work gloves underneath the exhaust and just raised it up while it was on the rear stand. This seemed to be the quickest solution and only took about 10mins without removing the mudguard (not required) to make the adjustment. I will have to revisit and remove the mudguard this way I can lift the rod higher up to rotate the bolt to match the length difference from eye-2-eye.

Great thread!

Does anyone know what rider weight, without gear, the standard rear shock and front fork springs suit?

Best place to buy C spanners for the rear shock pre-load adjustment?

How easy is it to remove the electronic adjustment cables on the forks in order to adjust pre-load?

Many thanks,

Phil


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

capnjack52 said:

SSDriver & gman74: Presuming you used a torque wrench, what torque values did you use for reassembly? TIA

Click to expand...

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

I read somebody posting they used 24ft lbs torque for the bolt that holds the linkage to the wishbone. According to the torque specs sheet I got it says 45nm which is about 33ft lbs...

Please somebody confirm?

Edit: I switched from F to P and didn't like it. I guess I'm just used to the stiff "bouncy" rear shock. Maybe if I would've adjusted the forks it would've been better but I don't wanna mess with that. I guess it's like they say "if it ain't broken don't fix it". Going back to F!

Resurrecting an old thread, I recently acquired a 2012 1199S, and trying to find a way to lower the rear a biit. Link is currently set to F. The dogbone is in the fully-closed short position. If I were to move the link to the P position which requires extending the dog bone could I then shorten the dogbone a bit to reduce the rear height?

I have my doubts, as the photos indicate there are a couple of smooth spots on the threaded rod where the bolts locate— so unsure of amount of thread available for adjustment.

Thanks in advance for any help!
Greg
Austin TX


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Anybody? It’s a ghost town in here-


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

get a adjustable bone.

greggiacona said:

trying to find a way to lower the rear a biit.

Click to expand...

LOL a year late but for anyone else tht amy read through this.------- Dont lower the damned bike, you will screw up the geometry.

Solo canyon or track, leave the bike in F period. The suspension works so well in F, if you are having problems, its because you dont have your suspension set up right.

After 9 years of canyon and track, a well set up suspension in F cures all.

I hear ya--I'm leaving it in stock height. I'm 6'3" so really no urgent need to lower the rear. It was mostly a desire to take some weight off my wrists--but all is well, I've become used to the bike