From that Article of the bike on the dyno
You might choose to run your engine in gently, babying it like the book says, but I can verify that this man has given it an absolute gumboot full and taken it to redline several times before it even went in the crate. Next, dyno complete, it's off to in-house emissions testing.
Wait WTF, I have the choice to baby it or ride it normal??? Or I have the choice to disregard the manual or not????
Having owned more that 30 Motorcycles in my lifetime, I can tell you that I have not had one single engine failure. I take the medium approach; ride the bike like you would normally ride it - don't go nuts and bang off the rev limiter, but don't baby it. No long Freeway rides in 6th gear at a steady 70 mph; I rev the bike up to 1,000 rpm shy of redline for the most part - the exception was my BMW S100RR, where there's a factory limit of 9,000 rpm for the first 600 miles until the dealer takes it off and you get to use the full 14,200 rpm. One of my friends owns the Ducati dealership in San Francisco and every single time they send a new bike off with it's owner they tell the owner to ride it the way I just outlined. They have 20+ years of data and service records to back up their advice; their profits depend on as few motorcycle engines going boom, or underperforming as possible and so they go with the method that works best for them.
Other posters have given you good advice - loading the engine is what you want to do; get it warm and just ride it fairly hard, but not like you're at a track day and you should get great results. Engine break-in needs time, revs, heat and pressure to get the proper initial wear. The wear smooths out various small imperfections in the metals that touch - the oil lubricates as well s it can, but you still get wear and wear is something the designers and the factories count on.
A well broken-in engine will have almost zero oil consumption, nice high compression and will have got past most of the initial wear that happens in the first couple of thousand miles and should therefore have fewer particles floating around in the oil, oil filter and on the magnetic drain plug.
Coming from the BMW S1000RR, I put over 50,000 miles on that bike in less that 4 years; commuting, track days in 105+ degree heat, rain, 19 degree days, fog, you name it. At the 50,000 mile mark, my bike still made 185 RWHP and had perfect compression. The magnetic drain plug was showing pretty much zero metal shavings/particles sticking to it; compare that to some of the pictures of what the drain plug looked like from the 600 mile service:
