Stock 2023 V4R front master cylinder

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baggerman said:
The 2 valve Ducati's have the worst intake ports known to man. You can get 30% (seems impossible right) more intake flow by making the port line of sight and cleaning up the seats. And with no enlargement of the minimum cross section (no port velocity loss) so more torque everywhere. Utterly transforms the 2 valves.
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That does sound impossible.

The SportClassic is a lot of fun to ride, but it’s going to benefit a lot from lighter wheels, better brakes and a suspension upgrade (probably Bitubo cartridge rather than replacing the forks entirely).

It’s got a bit of a stutter when opening the throttle but I think it’s because the original exhaust and ECU were put back on when it was sold to me without resetting the TPS. I might put the Termignoni back on with the other ECU and see if it sorts itself out. The dealer doesn’t have the kit to reset the TPS on the older bikes…
 
spooky said:
That does sound impossible.

The SportClassic is a lot of fun to ride, but it’s going to benefit a lot from lighter wheels, better brakes and a suspension upgrade (probably Bitubo cartridge rather than replacing the forks entirely).

It’s got a bit of a stutter when opening the throttle but I think it’s because the original exhaust and ECU were put back on when it was sold to me without resetting the TPS. I might put the Termignoni back on with the other ECU and see if it sorts itself out. The dealer doesn’t have the kit to reset the TPS on the older bikes…
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A built 2 valve (I'm so old I raced 2 valves) as a 944 would make 105-108 wheel HP. You could get them down to about 330 lbs. And a 55 inch wb. Wide spread of torque. If I was going to Deals Gap this is what I would want. Utter weapon in the tight technical stuff.
 
baggerman said:
A built 2 valve (I'm so old I raced 2 valves) as a 944 would make 105-108 wheel HP. You could get them down to about 330 lbs. And a 55 inch wb. Wide spread of torque. If I was going to Deals Gap this is what I would want. Utter weapon in the tight technical stuff.
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That weight with that power at the wheel would be entertaining... The stock bike already feels light and nimble and that’s before the heavy stock wheels have been changed for the OZ Gass wheels that I’ve ordered.

It’s more fun on the road than the rather serious V4.
 
In the tight stuff way more fun. On my race bike I took the flywheel off and moved the crank ignition triggers onto the end of the camdrive. No FI, 41mm FCR flatslides. Snap wheelies anyone. Really fun, and flickable (steep and twitchy) and would flip side to side like nothing else I've ever had. But in the end by the time the 916/955's were everywhere everything you gained in the twisty bit's you gave back on the straights. Sorta like a Yamaha in MOTOGP. Put some good tires on that bike and go out and spank a few high end liter bikes with it.
 
bp_SFV4 said:
I think it's something specific to Ducati because of the levers and how they (the levers) span over the controls. OEM size is 16mm though. I followed the bleed procedure from the service video which results in a MUCH better lever feel. Highly recommended to do that before upgrading the master.

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Okay, why am I now unable to find a video that I have previously watched? Did you provide a link before that has changed for some reason?
 
andyb said:
Are we there yet?
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There’s not much room between the calipers, forks and wheels to get to the bleed valves… I emptied the oil from the reservoir, swapped in the new master cylinder and then bled the master cylinder until there was no air. Did a bit at the calipers and didn’t see any air, but I’ll have another go tomorrow when I’m sober.

I think we are pretty much there though!
 
Oh and I would of gone around the front of the forks and re routed the front speed pick up to get rid of the tosh under the front mudguard
 
andyb said:
The difference between just bolting on and actually fitting something!
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It wasn’t so bad considering I’ve not done any of it before. A bit of a learning curve but nothing particularly difficult. A couple of bits that I was told would work but it turned out that they didn’t work with the R.

I’ve got to say as well that Spider are a really great Company to deal with and the products are nice.
 
spooky said:
No issue with that. I was referring to access for opening and closing the bleed valves.
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Might be worth picking up a bleeder wrench. My trusty old Craftsmen wrenches did the job fine though. Crack and torqued the bleeder with the boxed side and then use the open side to modulate the screw when bleeding. No need to He-Man them closed when you reset the lever. Just need to be barely closed to prevent air getting sucked in.
 

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