Stock 2023 V4R front master cylinder

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One thing for sure you don't want to overfill these. The main scavenge section is on the downside of a screen that used to scrape oil off the counterweights. Really close. If you overfill them they'll froth the oil and bye bye rod bearings.

I know about not over-filling from air-cooled Porsche. I always keep the oil where it should be, with coolant near the lower mark.
 
Keep weighing your oil… Speaking of, what’s the typical weight of the oil you recover since you prefer this method? I’m sure you’ve written it down somewhere.

I will.

You’ve yet to say why it’s wrong, other than to say that weighing is not a good way to measure oil, which is incorrect.

Why would I keep a record and why would you need to know? The point is to replace what’s taken out, so I weigh what comes out and put the same back in… I’m not sure I can make it any simpler for you.

In your defence, it’s not the dumbest comment you’ve made in this thread.
 
I really don't understand why you make so difficult an oil change. Even ducati says that the oil you will need after an oil change wil be approximately 3 liters and you don't have to worry about what is left inside.
 
I really don't understand why you make so difficult an oil change. Even ducati says that the oil you will need after an oil change wil be approximately 3 liters and you don't have to worry about what is left inside.

How exactly have I made it difficult? Instead of ‘approximately’ I take a moment to weigh it and put exactly the same back in - I don’t need ‘approximate’ but have it correct first time and I don’t need to top up, etc. It takes me no more time to do it than the usual method and probably less time, yet somehow you conclude that I’ve made it ‘so difficult’.

I can’t believe people are losing their minds over something so simple and so unimportant… :rolleyes:🤣
 
How exactly have I made it difficult? Instead of ‘approximately’ I take a moment to weigh it and put exactly the same back in - I don’t need ‘approximate’ but have it correct first time and I don’t need to top up, etc. It takes me no more time to do it than the usual method and probably less time, yet somehow you conclude that I’ve made it ‘so difficult’.

I can’t believe people are losing their minds over something so simple and so unimportant… :rolleyes:🤣

No-one cares what you are doing.
Just stop commenting about oil in a thread that is made to be discussed about the master cylinder.
 
It’s my thread - I asked the question!!

And I didn’t bloody well start this oil change discussion FFS!! I was asked how I do it by NapoleonDomestique while he was doing his usual nonsense!!

And if you don’t care then why bloody comment?!

Good grief… 🫣 Unbloodybelievable…

Create another thread about oil change and we can argue there
 
Which master cylinder have you bought?

Definitely trying the 19x18 billet, because I realised that I’ll need a 19 for my SportClassic build (just decided on the wheels and ordered them), so if this is no good on the V4R then it will be used on the SportClassic as I need a 19 regardless.

If it’s no good then I will get a 17 and I’ll let you know, so you can tell me you told me that 48 pages ago, but at least I won’t have wasted my money because I need a 19 anyway.
 
Definitely trying the 19x18 billet, because I realised that I’ll need a 19 for my SportClassic build (just decided on the wheels and ordered them), so if this is no good on the V4R then it will be used on the SportClassic as I need a 19 regardless.

If it’s no good then I will get a 17 and I’ll let you know, so you can tell me you told me that 48 pages ago, but at least I won’t have wasted my money because I need a 19 anyway.

The 2 valve Ducati's have the worst intake ports known to man. You can get 30% (seems impossible right) more intake flow by making the port line of sight and cleaning up the seats. And with no enlargement of the minimum cross section (no port velocity loss) so more torque everywhere. Utterly transforms the 2 valves.
 

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