Stock 2023 V4R front master cylinder

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How funny - you edited your post to remove your step by step 4-hour oil change process on a V4. 🤣 And you answered my question with a question… 🫣

You weigh the oil that’s removed and put the same back in… tricky stuff.

Your turn. How do you do an oil change on a 911? There have been a lot of models, so let’s use a simple one like a 964 as an example. Off to Google…

I don’t know why I entertain this nonsense. 🫣

I remember when i started pulling out the dip stick on my 993 for the first time....long fscking stick :)
 
I remember when i started pulling out the dip stick on my 993 for the first time....long fscking stick :)

At least you have a dipstick and can see the engine on the older ones. Better than taking off the rear bumper just to change an air filter…
 
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Considering that the ABS unit is nestled in between the engine and front headers, I’m not surprised the fluid goes bad quicker than normal. Most ABS units are put in the rear subframe away from heat sources. Not Ducati… Though the engineers probably found that putting it in the rear subframe was hotter than the its current location. At least there’d be a little air flow where it’s at now.
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I think this is exactly right. It's the built in fluid pre heater. And the extra 3 gallons of fluid that goes with it. Geez...
 
It did because I didn't do 6000km service yes.

What level and which spec are you talking about?

They denied the warranty claim because you didn't do the service right? But the failure had nothing to do with the lack of service. Actually, I thought the unbroken bits looked perfectly OK. From the pictures I saw it was their error. They should have warrantied yours.
 
They denied the warranty claim because you didn't do the service right? But the failure had nothing to do with the lack of service. Actually, I thought the unbroken bits looked perfectly OK. From the pictures I saw it was their error. They should have warrantied yours.

There was no claim. The bike was long outside of warranty and I'm the 3rd owner.
 
Having changed my oil and filter every 4 days of use Ive looked at a variety of methods.
The best thing with an oil change is time
If you do it yourself you have the opportunity to leave it to drain overnight and even drain the oil rad.
The weighing the oil thing is a bit OTT as it’s a liquid you get a cc volume of what came out.
 
the tools required are fully inclusive..
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Having changed my oil and filter every 4 days of use Ive looked at a variety of methods.
The best thing with an oil change is time
If you do it yourself you have the opportunity to leave it to drain overnight and even drain the oil rad.
The weighing the oil thing is a bit OTT as it’s a liquid you get a cc volume of what came out.

I don’t see why it’s over the top? I found it a very simple way to do it. It ensures the level is the same after the oil changes as it was before. Simple.
 
Well obviously you’re not going to start with the wrong level and make sure you keep the wrong level… :rolleyes:

That's why it's fine to use only the level. Just drain overnight, turn the engine over, let it drain some more then put in enough to reach the top line, run the engine for 30 secs, check for leaks and let it settle for 2 - 4 hours and top up if required.
 
That's why it's fine to use only the level. Just drain overnight, turn the engine over, let it drain some more then put in enough to reach the top line, run the engine for 30 secs, check for leaks and let it settle for 2 - 4 hours and top up if required.

I have noticed if you let it drain for 6 days is even better 💪
 
That's why it's fine to use only the level. Just drain overnight, turn the engine over, let it drain some more then put in enough to reach the top line, run the engine for 30 secs, check for leaks and let it settle for 2 - 4 hours and top up if required.

You can do it like that or you can do it the way I do it. I don’t think it really matters, but I like the way I do it because I know exactly where it’s going to be.
 

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