Yep agreed, as long as whatever you do or use, you maintain the integrity of the magnetic transfer which will of course degrade with distance and the selection of an insulator.
V4R Saves the Day! 2022 PV4 First Failure....
- Thread starter RickD996
- Start date
Help Support Ducati Forum:
- Joined
- May 1, 2021
- Messages
- 3,035
- Location
- SoCal
I’m gunna test that if my sensor fails again…even a very thin washer/gap would probably keep it from shitting itself but will the magnets still work…
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2020
- Messages
- 2,035
- Location
- texas
Good point. I’m inclined to agree. The way to know for sure is to test - try both (air gap without heat sink and heat sink without air gap), and collect temperature readings.
- Joined
- Jul 10, 2020
- Messages
- 6,000
- Location
- Midwest
I think it would show up pretty quick if it wasn't going to work.
Do you think a steel washer would effect it? I suppose it wouldn't since the bolts are steel.
I'm shopping for washers...does anyone know off hand what size the bolts are?
ETA: Found it, M4x17 .7 with threadlocker applied.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jul 10, 2020
- Messages
- 6,000
- Location
- Midwest
I have 2000 of them on the way. Will be here Tuesday.
I should put 2 of them in a plastic bag labeled Ducati Performance by BP and sell it for $10.
I should put 2 of them in a plastic bag labeled Ducati Performance by BP and sell it for $10.
LOL I like it. The drums I use don’t come with magnets. The stock plastic drums do but they are pretty weak. I just use these super magical magnet BS thingys and epoxy them in place. I could probably actuate the sensor from 1/4 inch away. You’ll have to play with the sensitivity. Hopefully, there are no issues picking up the signal. I don’t have access to the V4 at the moment, is the gear change assembly not acceptable via a cover like the V2? I can tell from the photo.
Attachments
- Joined
- Jul 10, 2020
- Messages
- 6,000
- Location
- Midwest
I hedged my bet and went with a .5mm thick one since that what you had. Any air between the two is much better than contacting as far as heat goes.
That whole section is cast and one piece. Its not a cover like the twins. I think you have to split the case to get at the selector drum.
That whole section is cast and one piece. Its not a cover like the twins. I think you have to split the case to get at the selector drum.
- Joined
- Jul 10, 2020
- Messages
- 6,000
- Location
- Midwest
I think you get to that on the left side of the bike under the clutch. I'm picking up what you're throwing down though.
ok so there is a cover for that, although its a big one. So it looks like the whole gear shift mechanism is behind the clutch side cover an pulls out through the motor so thats not horrible althought it looks like the seal for the shift shaft is in the case so if that fails, yuck
- Joined
- Jul 10, 2020
- Messages
- 6,000
- Location
- Midwest
I guess its better than splitting the case. If I were ever in there I'd probably shop an aftermarket part and replace it as a preventative measure. Same could probably be said for the water pump and its drive gears and measuring clutch plates.
Off topic for sure, but what's the best way to get Titebond off?
Off topic for sure, but what's the best way to get Titebond off?
Damn, that is a bit of a bitch. I'm not any better off than any other idiot, I don't have a good solution. Green pad, green pad on the Dremel, solvent, rags and a good sense of humor. On the remount, I use Yamabond "EXCLUSIVELY". Never had a leak and its super easy to remove.
- Joined
- Oct 25, 2020
- Messages
- 1,566
- Location
- Lusail
If you mean Threebond then a razor blade should take care of it. It's not difficult to remove.
So you have used a razor blade to remove Threebond on Ducati engine cases? Which case pieces? Do you have any photos of the process?
- Joined
- May 28, 2022
- Messages
- 2,900
- Location
- USA
This might sound real dumb but what about just trying gold foil reflective tape on the sensor? Keep it simple… Allegedly this stuff can reduce temps by 70°F.
From what @bp_SFV4 posted the sensor is rated to 257°F which is bumping up against the operating temp of engine oil. From what I’ve read, oil breaks down at temps beyond 275°F. Therefore, you’d think that the exhaust heat that’s trapped in the bodywork is probably higher than the engine case itself and most likely contributing most to these failures. If you can shield that radiative heat from soaking into the sensor then maybe you can keep it w/in its temp spec.
When these sensor fail, is it before, during, or after a hard track session or when really giving it the beans? That could also tell you what’s causing these failures. I’d suspect it happens after the engine has been run hard and put away wet. So there’s no wind to cool things and it becomes heat soaked and eventually fails. Might be worth investing in a leaf blower that you see in pit lane to keep air moving across the bike haha!
Seems like if enough people reported this to the NTSB that we’d be able to force a recall.
https://www.nhtsa.gov/report-a-safety-problem
From what @bp_SFV4 posted the sensor is rated to 257°F which is bumping up against the operating temp of engine oil. From what I’ve read, oil breaks down at temps beyond 275°F. Therefore, you’d think that the exhaust heat that’s trapped in the bodywork is probably higher than the engine case itself and most likely contributing most to these failures. If you can shield that radiative heat from soaking into the sensor then maybe you can keep it w/in its temp spec.
When these sensor fail, is it before, during, or after a hard track session or when really giving it the beans? That could also tell you what’s causing these failures. I’d suspect it happens after the engine has been run hard and put away wet. So there’s no wind to cool things and it becomes heat soaked and eventually fails. Might be worth investing in a leaf blower that you see in pit lane to keep air moving across the bike haha!
Seems like if enough people reported this to the NTSB that we’d be able to force a recall.
https://www.nhtsa.gov/report-a-safety-problem
Last edited:
- Joined
- Sep 29, 2019
- Messages
- 1,992
- Location
- London
This shows the sensor failing, after one lap?
THe sensor had failed before, usually mid session.
THe sensor had failed before, usually mid session.
- Joined
- May 28, 2022
- Messages
- 2,900
- Location
- USA
- Joined
- Sep 29, 2019
- Messages
- 1,992
- Location
- London
I think so.
The engine is a lot hotter then the ambient air temperature around it from the exhaust.
Similar threads
Register CTA
Register on Ducati Forum! This sidebar will go away, and you will see fewer ads.
Sign Up
