V4R Saves the Day! 2022 PV4 First Failure....

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Oh of course, I didn’t take photos but I will be more than happy to repeat the process and photographically document it and post it later this afternoon, no problem. If you would be so kind to at some point include the methodology that you used to deduce your hypothesis, (mechanical application, mechanical modeling etc) that would be most appreciated.
 
endodoc said:
Oh of course, I didn’t take photos but I will be more than happy to repeat the process and photographically document it and post it later this afternoon, no problem. If you would be so kind to at some point include the methodology that you used to deduce your hypothesis, (mechanical application, mechanical modeling etc) that would be most appreciated.
Click to expand...

Okaaaaaay…
 
SuperDomestique said:
Nope top of the sensor. I’d wager the heat that kills these sensors comes from the convection of the hot exhaust rather than conduction from the engine case. That’s why they put that cooling channel to direct cool air towards it. Exhaust headers at WOT are probably in around 600-800°F and I’m assuming the surrounding air is probably half that (most plastics start melting at 400°F so air temps have to be less or it would melt the fairings). Oil temp max would be 275° but I think they’d be running a pretty significant margin from that and the engine itself runs around 220-230°F.

So I’d take the insulative effects of the foil tape over the convective effects of heat soaking. Unless you’re willing to run cool air over the sensor when you get back to the pits with a leaf blower.

Also, wouldn’t running washers under the sensor create a gap where dirt and debris could enter the engine intervals? Or is the system closed off from that?
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With gold foil on the top of the sensor you'd also by insulating it from the cool(er) air directed on it by the duct. Presuming of course the duct is even effective at doing so. Air really isn't a good conductor of heat. Conduction from the magnesium/aluminium engine case would be much better at soaking heat into the sensor. The sensor is kind of tucked away from the exhaust too. If you want to talk heat soak from the exhaust I'd think the rear shock would be suffering more for sure.

1656272370973.png


Its closed under the sensor. The sensor just detects a magnet through the engine case.
 
endodoc said:
Man this thing has gone full Inside Edition. Soooo, went to the garage and pulled out the IR gun. Taking multiple readings at various angles etc, the absolute highest thermal register was the cover that the sensor mounts to so in my particular case, insulating the sensor from that is the way to go, and I did emphasize, my scenario. Get your IR probe out and start poking around. Maybe the best solution is a multi faceted approach.
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Didn’t know you could measure air temps with an IR gun. News to me... And was this measured during a track day session/dyno session at WOT or at idle? With or without fairings on? With cool air running over it or stagnant air?

I think the easiest way to do this would be to slap a temp-indicating label on the sensor and see how hot things get on a track day.

https://www.mcmaster.com/temperature-indicating-stickers/
 
Bai Mityo said:
Hello guys,

It has been awhile, but here is the current state of affairs.

From the two sensors ordered the second hand one arrived, and the new 'Ducati' one we are still waiting on.

The second hand one has undergone some modifications in order to help with the heat transfer from the engine. The cooling is done in order to achieve desirable behavior and avoid 'frying the sensor a third time.

So what we did:
We took a CPU cooling radiator, some high quality thermal paste to help with the heat transfer between the sensor and the radiator and we crafted two spacers in order to help with the heat not being transferred directly from the gearbox casing to the sensor.
KAH4C00.jpg


Here is the sensor with the thermal paste installed:
xOWxWMS.jpg


Here is the sensor with all the 'improvements':
gjB6MFU.jpg

itTuR2o.jpg

Th7AQha.jpg

MkIiVMk.jpg


Here is the finished bike improvement (mounted on the bike):
x708H89.jpg


I just returned from a two-day track test with ambient temperature of 38 degrees Celsius (100 Fahrenheit). I am happy to announce that 300 miles later the sensor is still operational and works like a charm!

Also, there was no problem whatsoever with gear detection and indication.

I am not sure if all these precautionary actions are necessary in order to keep it functioning, but what I know is that traveling to a track-day and realizing you can't ride is very unwanted situation for everyone.

I hope this helps someone else too!

Thank you for all the help and community feedback guys. Stay safe!
Click to expand...

https://ducatiforum.com/t/help-need...nsor-and-dqs-ducati-v4-2018.39144/post-338918
Heat sink + spacers.

The only thing I would do different is to use a thermal pad instead of paste and I will be trying insulating washers first.

I'd also theorize if the heat from the exhaust was heating the sensor, putting a heatsink would make the problem worse since a heatsink works two ways.
 
Last edited:
That’s the thing with these race bikes. The closer you look at the details, the more you see the details and all the .... that needed modifications. That shock shield looks like it was built in the final hour. Not pretty but it works
 
I use this thermoshield in a lot of stuff, aviation, bikes etc works really well. This is the control box for the QS.
 

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Going through an older thread here it looks like spacers were a popular solution.

1656276060870.png


endodoc said:
That’s the thing with these race bikes. The closer you look at the details, the more you see the details and all the .... that needed modifications. That shock shield looks like it was built in the final hour. Not pretty but it works
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I could look at a prepped WSBK all day.
 
I considered a heat shield on my shock reservoir, but I figured that it was designed to operate at fairly high temps otherwise surely there would be remote/finned/shielded reservoirs?
 
I don't know if you track your bike, but I'd think you'd have to be for heat soak on the shock to matter. I doubt on the street it matters unless you ride in 1st gear on the highway.

Just the fact that its on a WSBK Panigale tells me there's a need for it. Granted those dudes are riding at a much higher level than I am, so I doubt I need it. Same as brake ducts really.
 
Not scientific whatsoever but in my case, the mounting surface of the GPS is as I stated the hottest area affecting the sensor so again, the logical solution which apparently others have concluded as well is to isolate the sensor from the cover.
 

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