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So you have used a razor blade to remove Threebond on Ducati engine cases? Which case pieces? Do you have any photos of the process?

Are you being interrogative for the sake of it?

What the .... does it matter which case it is and if it's a Ducati case or not?

This isn't a direct answer to your question but i've removed excess Threebond with my finger nail after it has cured from a V4 case after installing a clutch cover.
IMG_1759 (3).jpg
 
Are you being interrogative for the sake of it?

What the .... does it matter which case it is and if it's a Ducati case or not?

This isn't a direct answer to your question but i've removed excess Threebond with my finger nail after it has cured from a V4 case after installing a clutch cover.
View attachment 43441

Do you have a before picture, to prove it?

Otherwise, it didn't happen, and no-one will ever believe you.
 
Are you being interrogative for the sake of it?

What the .... does it matter which case it is and if it's a Ducati case or not?

This isn't a direct answer to your question but i've removed excess Threebond with my finger nail after it has cured from a V4 case after installing a clutch cover.
View attachment 43441
Dude, I was asking a legitimate question. When I answer someone I always include photos of exactly what I’m working with. If I haven’t done it, I don’t post it. I have been working with these engines for quite a while.

I have quite a few Ducati engine cases in my shop and I have disassembled and re assembled quite a few of them. I was schooled never to use a harder material to remove something from a softer material that you don’t want to scratch up. In this case a stainless blade on soft aluminum or worse, magnesium. I was taught to remove the bulk of the adhesive with plastic and then the residual with a nylon pad and a solvent to completely remove all of the adhesive.

I have yet to see someone use a steel blade to completely remove Threebond without ....... up the case material. You chime in with the razor blade so I’m thinking, ok Alkhater has a way to successfully do this with a razor blade, great, post up the procedure so we can see how it’s done.

Reality is, it looks like you haven’t actually done what you suggested. That’s all.
 
Hmm, my understanding of physics is lacking in this instance. Which law of physics caused this?

Or, is 'physics' a typing error? And it should've been spelt 'Physics'? And Physics, is just a very accommodating friend of yours? Did he at least take you out for a nice meal before inserting the tube of sealant in your 'ass'?

Crikey, I hope he ensured the lid was correctly seated. I would imagine, having a tube of sealant evacuate its contents in your 'ass' could be rather uncomfortable, and potentially hazardous!

Have you had an x-ray, or at least seen a doctor, to check everything is OK?

Has this happened to you before?
 
Hmm, my understanding of physics is lacking in this instance. Which law of physics caused this?

Or, is 'physics' a typing error? And it should've been spelt 'Physics'? And Physics, is just a very accommodating friend of yours? Did he at least take you out for a nice meal before inserting the tube of sealant in your 'ass'?

Crikey, I hope he ensured the lid was correctly seated. I would imagine, having a tube of sealant evacuate its contents in your 'ass' could be rather uncomfortable, and potentially hazardous!

Have you had an x-ray, or at least seen a doctor, to check everything is OK?

Has this happened to you before?

You've taken the post far too seriously... I haven't caused some previously traumatizing experience to resurface have I?
 
Dude, I was asking a legitimate question. When I answer someone I always include photos of exactly what I’m working with. If I haven’t done it, I don’t post it. I have been working with these engines for quite a while.

I have quite a few Ducati engine cases in my shop and I have disassembled and re assembled quite a few of them. I was schooled never to use a harder material to remove something from a softer material that you don’t want to scratch up. In this case a stainless blade on soft aluminum or worse, magnesium. I was taught to remove the bulk of the adhesive with plastic and then the residual with a nylon pad and a solvent to completely remove all of the adhesive.

I have yet to see someone use a steel blade to completely remove Threebond without ....... up the case material. You chime in with the razor blade so I’m thinking, ok Alkhater has a way to successfully do this with a razor blade, great, post up the procedure so we can see how it’s done.

Reality is, it looks like you haven’t actually done what you suggested. That’s all.

Well I did assume that finesse would be exercised regardless of instruction. A razor blade would not mar a magnesium case if approached with care.

In hindsight of your comment I do agree that a plastic blade would be a more adequate tool for the job though.
 
This might sound real dumb but what about just trying gold foil reflective tape on the sensor? Keep it simple… Allegedly this stuff can reduce temps by 70°F.

I'd think you'd be insulating the sensor from any cooling air directed on it by putting any heat insulating material on the top of it.
 
Hmm. I like the thin washer idea as you're just using air as an insulator and there'd be nothing to interfere with the magnet.

It may be worth a shot though, if you could get high quality gold film, and not the generic stuff they sell on Amazon.
 
I thought he meant on the bottom of the sensor - between the sensor and the case.

Nope top of the sensor. I’d wager the heat that kills these sensors comes from the convection of the hot exhaust rather than conduction from the engine case. That’s why they put that cooling channel to direct cool air towards it. Exhaust headers at WOT are probably in around 600-800°F and I’m assuming the surrounding air is probably half that (most plastics start melting at 400°F so air temps have to be less or it would melt the fairings). Oil temp max would be 275° but I think they’d be running a pretty significant margin from that and the engine itself runs around 220-230°F.

So I’d take the insulative effects of the foil tape over the convective effects of heat soaking. Unless you’re willing to run cool air over the sensor when you get back to the pits with a leaf blower.

Also, wouldn’t running washers under the sensor create a gap where dirt and debris could enter the engine intervals? Or is the system closed off from that?
 
Man this thing has gone full Inside Edition. Soooo, went to the garage and pulled out the IR gun. Taking multiple readings at various angles etc, the absolute highest thermal register was the cover that the sensor mounts to so in my particular case, insulating the sensor from that is the way to go, and I did emphasize, my scenario. Get your IR probe out and start poking around. Maybe the best solution is a multi faceted approach.
 
I might add that to date there seems to have been 3 entities who have put a GPS on with some sort of modification. Myself and the guy with the heat sink and Ducati Corse. In all three of those cases, the sensor was insulated from its mounting surface. Is that ideal? Maybe,Maybe not but it is what you have to work with from a proven strategy perspective.
 
Where’s the photos??? 😉
Man this thing has gone full Inside Edition. Soooo, went to the garage and pulled out the IR gun. Taking multiple readings at various angles etc, the absolute highest thermal register was the cover that the sensor mounts to so in my particular case, insulating the sensor from that is the way to go, and I did emphasize, my scenario. Get your IR probe out and start poking around. Maybe the best solution is a multi faceted approach.
 

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