V4S - experience with linear links?

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Has anyone installed a linear shock link on a race or track V4S and did it make a positive difference? Forsaken Motorsports offers one that I'm considering but would love feedback from folks that have done it already. Track only bike.

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IMG_20211030_193527.jpg
 
I made one for my V4R last year working really good, std links are way too progressive.
You will definitely notice a difference under hard acceleration but you need to make sure you get spring rate correct and might have to play around with the shim stack depending on your race pace.
 
I made one for my V4R last year working really good, std links are way too progressive.
You will definitely notice a difference under hard acceleration but you need to make sure you get spring rate correct and might have to play around with the shim stack depending on your race pace.
Thank you for sharing.

Did you go to heavier spring or lighter after the linear link? What changes did you make to the shim stack? Want to give as much info to my suspension builder as I can.

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We changed the stock rear shock with an RSP40 but on the stock one we went from a 9.0 to a 9.5nm and increased the compression backstop
 
OK I installed the Forsaken Motorsports linear link and wanted to share an update.

Takes all of 30 minutes, very straightforward install (I have termis so not sure if that creates more clearance down below compared to stock pipes). I will post an update after I get some seat time at the track, however, up to now, forsaken seem like good people. Very responsive via email and took the time to talk geometry/damping.

Two tips that may help if others are considering this in future -

1. Thanks to @RickD996 youtube videos, I bought myself a set of footpeg stands to hold the rear up and unload the suspension. You can do this job with just car jack stands (assuming you have non-folding pegs/rearsets) but these "power jack" stands are nice as you can re-use them on the engine sliders when you work on the front-end. I used to buy those bursig frame stands for every bike, but they are a pain as the link plates are custom to each bike and have to be adjusted just right. These footpeg stands are nice and easy and height adjustable.
2. You will need #14, #15, #18 sockets to get the stock link and plates off. The chain guard comes off to create all the access you need to the bolts on left side. Stock spacers/sleeves inside the link are re-used (2x). Stock bolts are reused (3x). Stock nuts are NOT re-used (stock bolts thread right into one of the connecting plates of the new link, neat design)

Here are pics of the new link. The forsaken link weighs more in the picture but it already has the sleeves transferred over, so I am guessing the weight is roughly same as stock, maybe just a tad more. @Bruce Wayne curious about your impressions since you fabbed one of these up yourself.

20211215_161250-COLLAGE.jpg


PXL_20211215_214639668.jpg


PXL_20211215_214545041.jpg

PXL_20211215_214509536.jpg


PXL_20211215_214457751.jpg


20211215_154812-COLLAGE.jpg

Power stands:

PXL_20211215_215012358.jpg
 
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OK I installed the Forsaken Motorsports linear link and wanted to share an update.

Takes all of 30 minutes, very straightforward install (I have termis so not sure if that creates more clearance down below compared to stock pipes). I will post an update after I get some seat time at the track, however, up to now, forsaken seem like good people. Very responsive via email and took the time to talk geometry/damping.

Two tips that may help if others are considering this in future -

1. Thanks to @RickD996 youtube videos, I bought myself a set of footpeg stands to hold the rear up and unload the suspension. You can do this job with just car jack stands (assuming you have non-folding pegs/rearsets) but these "power jack" stands are nice as you can re-use them on the engine sliders when you work on the front-end. I used to buy those bursig frame stands for every bike, but they are a pain as the link plates are custom to each bike and have to be adjusted just right. These footpeg stands are nice and easy and height adjustable.
2. You will need #14, #15, #18 sockets to get the stock link and plates off. The chain guard comes off to create all the access you need to the bolts on left side. Stock spacers/sleeves inside the link are re-used (2x). Stock bolts are reused (3x). Stock nuts are NOT re-used (stock bolts thread right into one of the connecting plates of the new link, neat design)

Here are pics of the new link. The forsaken link weighs more in the picture but it already has the sleeves transferred over, so I am guessing the weight is roughly same as stock, maybe just a tad more. @Bruce Wayne curious about your impressions since you fabbed one of these up yourself.

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Power stands:

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Thanks for this - really helpful. I am trying to fit my Forsaken link and the spacer/bush for the bearing that is connected to the cast alloy chassis member won't slide out, so the old linkage is stuck there on the bike! . Did yours come out easily? If so, i might get a bearing puller and see if that works? Thanks, Charles
 
Thanks for this - really helpful. I am trying to fit my Forsaken link and the spacer/bush for the bearing that is connected to the cast alloy chassis member won't slide out, so the old linkage is stuck there on the bike! . Did yours come out easily? If so, i might get a bearing puller and see if that works? Thanks, Charles
Mine just slid out. I would try hitting it with PB blaster or similar and using a rubber mallet.
 
Mine just slid out. I would try hitting it with PB blaster or similar and using a rubber mallet.
OK - thanks, bike is pretty new. The bolt was super tight though. I can't get to the threaded side of the holder very easily, so can't hit anything (as much as I'd like to!!). Might try an expanding wall bolt and pull it out. Thanks again!
 
Sorted now... just had to open the mount slightly with a prybar to allow the sleeve past. New link installed.

I bought the bike with a 110 N/mm spring - it was a dedicated trackday bike and the previous owner was probably 20 kg heavier. I rode it on the road set up like that and it naturally felt very firm. With the Forsaken Link, I will try it with the 110 spring and see how I go. I have a 100 ready to go in if it is too much. Unfortunately, I have to wait now until the better weather comes to London.
 
Sorted now... just had to open the mount slightly with a prybar to allow the sleeve past. New link installed.

I bought the bike with a 110 N/mm spring - it was a dedicated trackday bike and the previous owner was probably 20 kg heavier. I rode it on the road set up like that and it naturally felt very firm. With the Forsaken Link, I will try it with the 110 spring and see how I go. I have a 100 ready to go in if it is too much. Unfortunately, I have to wait now until the better weather comes to London.

How much do you weigh?
 
How much do you weigh?
85 kg plus gear... so about 95 (210 lb) all up?

I spoke to a Ducati dealer team running at the front of British Superbikes and they said 105 - 110 on the track. Other bike shops have said 95. So it's anybody's guess. (I heard the V4R comes with 105 and the linkage is the same and the swinging arm length is the same too... also read online, so probably not true, that Scott Redding was running a V4S with a 105 spring on track). Could all be complete nonsense.

Need to set up my sag and see how it all feels.

But I'm also open to advice... I only run in the middle group on track, but will be running with slicks (first time) in 2022 so hope to be improving.
 
85 kg plus gear... so about 95 (210 lb) all up?

I spoke to a Ducati dealer team running at the front of British Superbikes and they said 105 - 110 on the track. Other bike shops have said 95. So it's anybody's guess. (I heard the V4R comes with 105 and the linkage is the same and the swinging arm length is the same too... also read online, so probably not true, that Scott Redding was running a V4S with a 105 spring on track). Could all be complete nonsense.

Need to set up my sag and see how it all feels.

But I'm also open to advice... I only run in the middle group on track, but will be running with slicks (first time) in 2022 so hope to be improving.

110 is the heaviest Spring Ohlins makes, abs it’s what I use with a riding weight of about 260 pounds.

A 105 if it’s a track dedicated bike is about right for your weight…100 if you also street ride it.
 
110 is the heaviest Spring Ohlins makes, abs it’s what I use with a riding weight of about 260 pounds.

A 105 if it’s a track dedicated bike is about right for your weight…100 if you also street ride it.


I just went over all this with an Ohlins tech, and because I’m getting my fat ass in shape I asked specifically about the right rear spring for 210 pounds.

You’ll also want to do 11.0 front inner fork springs if you’re not running after market front forks.
 

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