2023 V4R // 2023 SEASON

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KarlKani said:
A couple updates
1-Finally hit 600 miles got the first service sorted
2-It was a good time to get it on the dyno with broken in engine with Akra which I have not seen yet, looks pretty good.
+204 at the wheel, motel 300v // 4th gear // oem wheel with unused oem dot tire // was run with baffles in and out, out had better results - curve looks good, at 9/10k AFR starts to run rich
+Next steps will be to dyno with Corse Oil + possible over the winter do a per cylinder tune I think can be 210+
3-Threw a new top clamp on it, I didn't want to file down the clip on notches on oem top clamp so I had one made that looks factory
4-Last night I dropped the oil and added new Corse oil
5-Made an adjusted on the angle of the qs connecting to the gear control lever, I adjusted to be 90 deg - the angle I was considerably over 90 deg (image shows pre adjusted angle). I am hoping this helps with some of the issues I have been having going into 1st gear.
6-Also still trying to get my geometry dialed in, I will be on track this Monday to review some changes

Two weekends ago I had a great couple days at PittRace, by far the best track we have and best facility. It had been 2 years since I had been and had never ridden a big bike there, I had not considered that and first couple sessions were ....... scary and took some time to adjust to.


View attachment 50993View attachment 50994View attachment 50995View attachment 50996View attachment 50997View attachment 50998View attachment 50999View attachment 51001
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Heading to Pitt Sunday to ride Monday and Tuesday! Can’t wait to try her out there. Was hoping my go pro chin mount would be in before I head out but it doesn look like it. Will be great to stretch her legs! ✊🏻✊🏻
 
Not sure why it took me this long to think of this but... Since I have been concentrating on setup suspension//geometry, I have been wanting to know where in the stroke I am without having pots + data suite. On a liter bike the stroke marker just shows how far down the front is diving after going very fast down a straight + on a mortals level that means nothing because most of that is straight up and down. On the way to the track this weekend I had this idea that is NOT very ground breaking but simple and effective...

Screenshot 2023-08-27 at 9.55.49 AM.jpg
 
Which brings me to a full on GoPro gripe, I have had so many of their cameras not work correctly. Sure some of them have been involved in some light low sides, those I have kinda chalked up to oh well they re glitching. This season maybe 2 months ago I bought to brand new Black 11 cameras - both turn off now during a session. I have heard that after the 9 they are very sensitive to vibration, which honestly I wish they said, "these don't work on motorcycles" but they would never do that because they would rather that someone drop $800 and then they deal with it after the y stop working idk - small rant
 
KarlKani said:
Which brings me to a full on GoPro gripe, I have had so many of their cameras not work correctly. Sure some of them have been involved in some light low sides, those I have kinda chalked up to oh well they re glitching. This season maybe 2 months ago I bought to brand new Black 11 cameras - both turn off now during a session. I have heard that after the 9 they are very sensitive to vibration, which honestly I wish they said, "these don't work on motorcycles" but they would never do that because they would rather that someone drop $800 and then they deal with it after the y stop working idk - small rant
Click to expand...

I think it might be caused by overheating.
 
KarlKani said:
Not sure why it took me this long to think of this but... Since I have been concentrating on setup suspension//geometry, I have been wanting to know where in the stroke I am without having pots + data suite. On a liter bike the stroke marker just shows how far down the front is diving after going very fast down a straight + on a mortals level that means nothing because most of that is straight up and down. On the way to the track this weekend I had this idea that is NOT very ground breaking but simple and effective...

View attachment 51127
Click to expand...

Yup. Just watch out for placement and lean angle. I scraped one off.

IMG_1497.png


And very much agree with how ...... GoPros are. It’s so hit and miss. My Hero 8 stops working after you disconnect it from USB power and there’s no indication that it’s not recording
 
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I've got the GoPro Fusion, which is a 360 camera. The footage is quite hard to manipulate, and uses a lot of data. I'm having to buy a new laptop to be able to process it. Not sure how it compares with the Insta, but I believe it might be similar. Seems like a more popular product.

I use the GoPro Session 5 cameras on my bike. Nice and compact, have been reliable so far....
 
RickD996 said:
I've got the GoPro Fusion, which is a 360 camera. The footage is quite hard to manipulate, and uses a lot of data. I'm having to buy a new laptop to be able to process it. Not sure how it compares with the Insta, but I believe it might be similar. Seems like a more popular product.

I use the GoPro Session 5 cameras on my bike. Nice and compact, have been reliable so far....
Click to expand...

I use the Hero 5 as well Rick. It’s pretty good / good enough. I did have a 7 Black, which was great when it worked, which wasn’t very often!! It would record a couple of minutes of footage and then randomly cut out or the video and audio would drop out of sync.
 
Just for info, I use the Garmin Virb, some years old but it is working well I think. Have had it on snowmobiling, car racing and now on the V4S. Two batteries is enough for a trackday it seems easily. Transfers video via a own wifi.
 
KA77 said:
That’s common, try it with a laptop as opposed to using your phone. The files are pretty big.
Click to expand...

Transfers via WiFi are always slow and sketchy. Each 5 min clip for my Hero 8 at 2,7k is 4GB and takes about 15 min to transfer. Granted I’m using high bit rate. Will be bringing an iPad and USB cable next time.

One other tip is to pick up some ND filters. You’ll be able to run native framerates (24 or 30), lower ISO and the footage looks cleaner. Also the wider lens and more lower that it’s mounted make your footage look like faster (ground rush)
IMG_1500.jpeg
 
SuperDomestique said:
Transfers via WiFi are always slow and sketchy. Each 5 min clip for my Hero 8 at 2,7k is 4GB and takes about 15 min to transfer. Granted I’m using high bit rate. Will be bringing an iPad and USB cable next time.

One other tip is to pick up some ND filters. You’ll be able to run native framerates (24 or 30), lower ISO and the footage looks cleaner. Also the wider lens and more lower that it’s mounted make your footage look like faster (ground rush)View attachment 51157
Click to expand...

Your traction control is all the way up to 8, what are most guys runNing on fresh tires? I run mine on 3 with wheelie control on 4 and engine braking on 1 and slide control on 1. Is that way aggressive? It never seems to really come on.
 
Somefun said:
Your traction control is all the way up to 8, what are most guys runNing on fresh tires? I run mine on 3 with wheelie control on 4 and engine braking on 1 and slide control on 1. Is that way aggressive? It never seems to really come on.
Click to expand...

This was at Laguna Seca which has tons of grip and new tarmac. I kept on turning up TC/WC throughout the day to conserve my rear tire (had about half worn out) and to see how much I could get the electronics to trigger. Even at those high settings I only very occasionally saw it activating. Then again after watching those videos I’m not aggressive enough on the throttle even though in my head I feel like I’m giving it the beans.

It’ll be interesting to see these settings at a lower grip track like Thunderhill.
 

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