Back in the shop

Snuggly said:

Unless something unexpected pops - I should be there

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I’ll see you there!

Did you get in any laps on it?…you’re gunna love it, the bike doesn’t turn you into Valentino Rossi but it’s pretty crazy how it keeps asking you to do more while also giving you the confidence to do so. There are 3 things I’d change out straight away.

Two are needed in my book, the 3rd is subjective.

The shift rod from the left foot lever to the gearbox is made from clay, i.e. some cheap metals that breaks or weakens when you adjust the jam nuts, which you may have to do because the shift mechanism needs to be at a 90 degree angle with the shift rod or you get false neutrals. So if you adjust your foot peg and foot lever, you need to adjust the angle, and therefore that weak shift rod length, then it weakens and mine broke nearly ending a track day for a $15 part.

The 2nd is the the rear brake reservoir was exactly where my right heel hits it when I’m moving my foot around on the peg…it’s cheap plastic and I actually knocked the cap off the reservoir, some others have lost that cap and gone down from brake fluid getting on the rear wheel…again an easy cheap fix, $50 billet metal reservoir and the cap stays on tight…(or do what I later did and go with a thumb brake and remove that reservoir completely).

The 3rd thing is subjective…these bikes come with 30mm piston Stylema’s…but they put a 19mm Master Cylinder…that’s a bit too big for that piston size for my preferred brake feel…too wooden and not enough feel on trail braking…I switched to a 17mm Master Cylinder and it feels perfect on that bike.

Steven31371 said:

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Did you get in any laps on it?…you’re gunna love it, the bike doesn’t turn you into Valentino Rossi but it’s pretty crazy how it keeps asking you to do more while also giving you the confidence to do so. There are 3 things I’d change out straight away.

Two are needed in my book, the 3rd is subjective.

The shift rod from the left foot lever to the gearbox is made from clay, i.e. some cheap metals that breaks or weakens when you adjust the jam nuts, which you may have to do because the shift mechanism needs to be at a 90 degree angle with the shift rod or you get false neutrals. So if you adjust your foot peg and foot lever, you need to adjust the angle, and therefore that weak shift rod length, then it weakens and mine broke nearly ending a track day for a $15 part.

The 2nd is the the rear brake reservoir was exactly where my right heel hits it when I’m moving my foot around on the peg…it’s cheap plastic and I actually knocked the cap off the reservoir, some others have lost that cap and gone down from brake fluid getting on the rear wheel…again an easy cheap fix, $50 billet metal reservoir and the cap stays on tight…(or do what I later did and go with a thumb brake and remove that reservoir completely.

The 3rd thing is subjective…the bikes come with 30mm piston Stylema’s…but they put a 19mm Master Cylinder…that’s a bit too big for that piston size for my preferred brake feel…too wooden and not enough feel on trail braking…I switched to a 17mm Master Cylinder and it feels perfect on that bike.

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Thanx for the tips.

The bike is amazing, and clearly has shown how much I can’t ride and have depended on power I really can’t wait to get it fixed and back on it again.

The brakes do indeed feel a bit like an off/on switch - I assume you’ve tried both modes before switching to 17?

Here’s what mine looks like now.

Snuggly said:

The brakes do indeed feel a bit like an off/on switch - I assume you’ve tried both modes before switching to 17?

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I tried the 19 MC on my R, which has the same calipers, out of curiosity and, whilst I liked the direct feel, I settled on the 17 that Brembo recommend and it has much better modulation. Trail braking was trickier with the 19 due to the on-off feeling that you mentioned.

Snuggly said:

Thanx for the tips.

The bike is amazing, and clearly has shown how much I can’t ride and have depended on power I really can’t wait to get it fixed and back on it again.

The brakes do indeed feel a bit like an off/on switch - I assume you’ve tried both modes before switching to 17?

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Yeah, every setting was too on/off for me with that 19mm Master…the 17mm still has absurd stopping power on that bike, but you can finesse and modulate it.

spooky said:

I tried the 19 MC on my R, which has the same calipers, out of curiosity and, whilst I liked the direct feel, I settled on the 17 that Brembo recommend and it has much better modulation. Trail braking was trickier with the 19 due to the on-off feeling that you mentioned.

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The KTM/Kramers run a smaller rotor than our Ducati’s, a 290mm versus a 330mm…so you would expect that the less leverage on the smaller rotor might ‘like’ a bigger MC…but I didn’t find that to be true…though again brake feel is a subjective thing. I’m told by Kramer that the professionals that tested the bike prefer the 19mm MC…but I’m not a professional …And I suspect that they prefer the feel of the 19mm MC because they have been running one for years on their race bikes and they are just use to that feel.

Wait until you realize that you shouldn’t even be popping up from your tuck yet where you use to grab brake on the Ducati

The power of the Ducati feels like it shouldn’t be legal lol

How late you let off throttle and start braking, and the speed at which you fly by liter bikes in the braking zone feels like it shouldn't be legal on the KRAMER/KTM

Steven31371 said:

The KTM/Kramers run a smaller rotor than our Ducati’s, a 290mm versus a 330mm…so you would expect that the less leverage on the smaller rotor might ‘like’ a bigger MC…but I didn’t find that to be true…though again brake feel is a subjective thing. I’m told by Kramer that the professionals that tested the bike prefer the 19mm MC…but I’m not a professional …And I suspect that they prefer the feel of the 19mm MC because they have been running one for years on their race bikes and they are just use to that feel.

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I think you might be onto something there.

Bruce Wayne said:

I bought 2 hp4 race, one to ride the other as spares, i can honestly say that it is the best motorcycle i have ever ridden, it just does everything you want a motorcycle to do, i ride it at 90% of what i would my race bike and that's about 1sec slower but ultra safe. In Australia parts are no longer available but engine parts are. Engine is very easy to rebuild and will do 5,000 race KLM no problem. Engine has close ratio gearbox made by alpha but could also fit the Nova one that is even better, has mild camshafts and few other kit parts but can definitely be rebuilt easily. At 146kg there is nothing else like it.

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A bit ot here;
Just got my fingers on a HP4 race. Do we have a good forum for those machines?
And yes it is a special feeling on it, holy cow the brake after the long straight, wow.

JOS said:

A bit ot here;
Just got my fingers on a HP4 race. Do we have a good forum for those machines?
And yes it is a special feeling on it, holy cow the brake after the long straight, wow.

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Sweet….i couldn’t find a forum for that specific bike the the BMW forums have sections where you can get info

JOS said:

A bit ot here;
Just got my fingers on a HP4 race. Do we have a good forum for those machines?
And yes it is a special feeling on it, holy cow the brake after the long straight, wow.

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I haven't seen any, I guess there isn't a lot of them out there, I don't think they sold more than 500. You can download the software from BMW website that allows you to tune it and adjust the settings, lots of parameters can be changed to improve it as the STD maps are quite conservative.

Bruce Wayne said:

I haven't seen any, I guess there isn't a lot of them out there, I don't think they sold more than 500. You can download the software from BMW website that allows you to tune it and adjust the settings, lots of parameters can be changed to improve it as the STD maps are quite conservative.

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750pcs done. Yes I have downloaded the BMW software but cannot get it to work for some reson, it says it is missing one file .dll. Will try to connect it to the machine to see if it solves the issue.
Same goes for the 2D logger, that program is looking for a licence key even you see it in gray so it should be fine...and they do not respond on mails it seems.

Steven31371 said:

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Got here late, am at Big Willow today, just did my 1st session, but I did it on the K5 Gixxer track bike, I gotta say, I f***king LOVE this track already.

We’ll see how it feels with the stiffer suspension of the Ducati next session, but so far my god this track is cool.

There’s only about 20% of the track that’s slightly technical, the other 80% is just….GOOOO FAAASSST

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you use a short bed truck to get your bike to the track? any issues?

CSV4 said:

you use a short bed truck to get your bike to the track? any issues?

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Not a short bed, a normal sized bed. Not the long bed though either.

But yeah, no problems at all if you have the right gear. Need a decent set of ramps, and a good wheel chuck for the front wheel. Roll the bike up into the truck and straight into the wheel chuck, make sure it’s straight, then strap it down so the the forks compress about 3 inches or so.

I like hauling the bike in the back of a truck much more than hauling a trailer that bounces and moves around. Can drive faster more securely.

You can use a short bed truck, but the rear tire is a little closer to the end of the tailgate that I like.

Steven31371 said:

Not a short bed, a normal sized bed. Not the long bed though either.

But yeah, no problems at all if you have the right gear. Need a decent set of ramps, and a good wheel chuck for the front wheel. Roll the bike up into the truck and straight into the wheel chuck, make sure it’s straight, then strap it down so the the forks compress about 3 inches or so.

I like hauling the bike in the back of a truck much more than hauling a trailer that bounces and moves around. Can drive faster more securely.

You can use a short bed truck, but the rear tire is a little closer to the end of the tailgate that I like.

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So I'm exploring hauling my bike in the bed of my truck, but the length of my bike is one inch long than the specs on the truck bed. I was hoping to place the front wheel in a chalk, and then slightly move the rear off to the side to be able to close the tailgate. Even my owners manual says to load the bike "straight". Should I let the air out of my rear tire instead? I really want to shut my tailgate because I can lock it.

I will eventually buy a toy-hauler after I pay off said toys...

FlyingDucatiMonster said:

So I'm exploring hauling my bike in the bed of my truck, but the length of my bike is one inch long than the specs on the truck bed. I was hoping to place the front wheel in a chalk, and then slightly move the rear off to the side to be able to close the tailgate. Even my owners manual says to load the bike "straight". Should I let the air out of my rear tire instead? I really want to shut my tailgate because I can lock it.

I will eventually buy a toy-hauler after I pay off said toys...

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I haul mine with the tail gate open. It’s fine as long as you have a wheel chuck and strap it down good.

Steven31371 said:

I haul mine with the tail gate open. It’s fine as long as you have a wheel chuck and strap it down good.

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I'm concerned with theft, not rolling out the back while cruising down the road. Plus, my other gear is more secure in the bed with the tailgate closed.

FlyingDucatiMonster said:

So I'm exploring hauling my bike in the bed of my truck, but the length of my bike is one inch long than the specs on the truck bed. I was hoping to place the front wheel in a chalk, and then slightly move the rear off to the side to be able to close the tailgate. Even my owners manual says to load the bike "straight". Should I let the air out of my rear tire instead? I really want to shut my tailgate because I can lock it.

I will eventually buy a toy-hauler after I pay off said toys...

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I would NOT haul the bike cocked to the side, and with the wheel chuck it will be 5 inches out over the tailgate. If you love that thing cock to the side, you’ll be putting a weird load on the front forks and I’d be worried that every time you hit a bump in the road bike tire would want to slide sideways if it was tilted, which it will be if you pull the rear wheel of the bike sideways.

Steven31371 said:

I would NOT haul the bike cocked to the side, and with the wheel chuck it will be 5 inches out over the tailgate. If you love that thing cock to the side, you’ll be putting a weird load on the front forks and I’d be worried that every time you hit a bump in the road bike tire would want to slide sideways if it was tilted, which it will be if you pull the rear wheel of the bike sideways.

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I be worried too... need to haul it, but I'm worried about theft. Thought it would be better locked in the back of the truck. Maybe I will haul it tailgate down/ straight, then cock and lock it when I park it for the night