Ducati Panigale V4 916 25 Anniversario Build Thread

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Can we have a discussion about the abs system and how it can be affected about the brake mods. Of course we can start a new thread. The brembo ms has 30mm pistons like the brembo stylema so your abs should
Operate normally. Changing to the GP4 RX is only recommended I understand when bypassing the abs unit.
 
hopefully bmw alpina, you finish your brake setup soon and can see how it goes. i cant do much anyway till i get back to my bike later this year!
 
Can we have a discussion about the abs system and how it can be affected about the brake mods. Of course we can start a new thread. The brembo ms has 30mm pistons like the brembo stylema so your abs should
Operate normally. Changing to the GP4 RX is only recommended I understand when bypassing the abs unit.

Hi Raul,
I think it is best if you create a brand new thread for this ABS discussion for using GP4RX with different size piston caliper since that way, your question will not be hidden inside the 49 pages of my thread and more people who have that specific interest might be able to participate since they can see your new thread with the specific title.
 
Raul, the gp4 rx calipers seem to work fine on my 1299R through the abs system. i had not even thought about piston size, so im glad to hear that the mc calipers should work on the v4 with abs!
 
bmw alpina, they dont seem to do the banjo (20 deg) quick release coupling in titanium, only al. :(

Hi Chris320,
Yes, I noticed that too in the brochures... you need different style... to connect.
I haven't look for this adapter, but you might be able to get a Metric Male 10mmx1mm (with crush washer) and AN3 Female Adapter,
then use Staubli Socket, UNF male thread Par# SPH 03.1652/BA/IA (bolted directly to this AN3 Female port of the adapter above)
this one is Stainless Steel part# so should be more reasonably price compare to the titanium model.
The Titanium Part# SPH 03.1652/BA/TI/KB

or use this one:
Socket, metric male thread, Part# for Titanium: SPH 03.1410/BA/TI/KB
This one use O-Ring, and I am not sure whether the O-Ring will be torn when we tightened it if the caliper port do not have the "o-Ring groove", but I could be wrong.
Also, maybe it is possible to use crush washer on this model...
 
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I haven't heard back from Staubli, however I did my own research and here is what I found:

It is possible to use the Staubli Socket, metric male thread Part# SPH 03.1410/BA/L/KR with Cooper washer as shown in this picture below, however, please note that this is connected to a distribution block with a total of 3 hoses supporting the distribution block (and the distribution block itself might be secured with a bolt through that through hole on the distribution block). This means the Staubli socket will not be subjected to any outside push/pull/sideway force.
Staubli M10 socket with Cooper Washer.JPG



Mounting this Staubli Socket, metric male thread Part# SPH 03.1410/BA/L/KR directly to the FRONT Brembo Brake Caliper is a different story because:

a. it will be subjected to many forces from the jolt from the road bump (remember the caliper is NOT suspended/unsprung weight so any force from the road bump is directly transferred without any suspension to absorb the shock).

b. it also have to withstand the side by side forces when the steering turns (plus the whiplash effect of the hoses and also the other Staubli plug connected on top of the Staubli socket)

c. Please take a look at the drawings below:
Socket Male Thread.JPG


you can see that the "L" dimension is only 8mm and not all of those 8mm is threaded shape, meaning it will only have about 5mm of thread that actually hold (clamp) everything. Compare this to a normal banjo bolt which usually have 10mm of thread available and about 8mm of them engaged. this means the clamping force from the torquing are divided only among 5mm of thread. This put more stress on both the Staubli Socket Connector and the thread inside the Brembo Caliper itself !!!
Plus, both the Staubli and the Brembo were made from aluminum so the chance of this thread fail is higher.
Aluminum main weakness is metal fatigue and it will break without warning... so if you are using aluminum, you better have to design it properly and based on all the above, I just worry if after thousands of mile of hard driving and the aluminum threaded section (below the hex) just snap due to metal fatigue

Now you can always purchase the Staubli Socket in Titanium (stronger thread, right?), Part# SPH 03.1410/BA/TI/KV, however this means the 5mm thread engage inside the Brembo Aluminum Caliper will have higher chance to break/stripped before the Staubli socket during torquing, but of course this is worse... since you don't want the thread in your Brembo caliper to be broken.

d. Please take a look at the picture below:
IMG_8157.JPG

I don't know how other Brembo caliper banjo port shape, but this is the picture of the banjo port on my stock Brembo Stylema caliper.
As you can see, it have a "higher/protruding" ring (marked by red arrow). That higher ring help to "crush" the cooper washer, but at the same time, that means it also might crush the O-Ring of the Staubli Socket Metric Male Thread SPH 03.1410/BA/L/KR, because instead of grooves to accommodate the O-Ring, it actually protrude. I did not have the measurement of the O-Ring, so there is a small chance that the O-Ring of the Staubli Socket have larger Internal Diameter than this protruding ring of the Brembo Stylema caliper port, but I doubt it...
so this means, we better use cooper washer, right?

well, take a look again at the drawing above, where it say "14/FLATS" indicating the largest diameter for Hexagonal shape is only 14mm... compare that to the regular Banjo Bolts which have the head diameter of around 15.5mm.
Why this matter? because this again means those 14mm Hexagonal shape of the Staubli Socket have small area to push/clamp the cooper washer and thus more stress compare to a regular banjo bolts (more area to press).
And regular banjo bolts are made of steel and in my case ProTi Titanium Bolts while this Staubli Socket is made by aluminum.


Based on all the above, I rather use the Staubli Banjo Connector, take a look at the drawing below:
Capture2.JPG

First, Staubli take precaution due to aluminum material by making the "thickness" of the banjo to 13.2mm (instead of the regular 10mm for stainless steel).
This is why, it will need LONGER banjo BOLTS.

Second, since this will follow banjo standard size, the inner and outer diameter of that banjo area will be FLAT and about the same diameter as the cooper washer, allowing for more uniform pressure.

Third, it will allow the use of a MUCH STRONGER Stainless Steel or Titanium Banjo Bolts to provide the clamping force.

Forth, those Stainless Steel or Titanium Banjo Bolts will also have the full thread of 10mm with at least 8mm of the tread engage to the thread inside the Brembo Caliper (vs only 5mm if we use the Staubli metric socket).
3mm more thread engagement might not seemed to be much but if you use, percentage, that 3mm extra means 160% more thread engagement vs. the 5mm. (so percentage wise it is a lot).

Because of all the above, even if it is possible to use cooper washer with Staubli metric socket to connect it directly to the caliper, I will prefer the Staubli "banjo" style connection instead.

EDIT: also using the Titanium material will only overcome the "strength" and "metal fatigue" issue of the aluminum, but still have other weaknesses as describe above, not to mention much higher price and it also weight more than aluminum
SPH 03.1410/BA/TI/KB (Titanium Socket) weight 16 grams
SPH 03.1021/BA/L/KR/BJ (Aluminum Banjo Style Connection) weight 14.2 grams


RE-EDIT:
Actually Staubli have a different more compact (and more expensive) quick couplings connector model the CBR02 series and from their PDF catalog it shows that
the Maximum pressure for the CBR02 is PS (bar) 300, however the pressure is DOWNGRADED A LOT if using Cooper Washer as seal:
Version with copper washer sealing maximum pressure is only (bar) 120

1593980407219.png
 
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The Staubli “o ring” piece is a special application part. It doesn’t pertain to anything in this conversation. If you are running Brembo or Nissin GP calipers then you can include them in a conversation. The Staubli 45 degree fitting requires a special length bolt. The single banjo is too short and the double is obvious too long. The steel version of this bolt is available from Spiegler. There is only 1 supplier of the Ti version of this bolt (see photo). PM me if anyone needs one. With regard to crush washers, I have run these parts with standard Brembo supplied copper washers for years with zero issues. I have have issues with the aluminum washers.
943EC873-9F81-4EF8-8355-0727A421DC9E.jpeg
 
I'm starting to see why it's rare that anything other than standard banjo bolt fittings are used on road bikes! so many issues to think about whiist trying to get the right lengths. I reckon for now, with the photos and lengths Raul can supply for the GP4 RX setup, I could get the lines made up for my MC calipers. 2 of the lines entering the abs system have long 90 degree bends, and 2 , 90 degree ish bends in the rear brake line, would be great to see how Raul's final fittings to the abs and rear brake look like. Also, the oem lines use substancial pieces of metal tubing, presumably for extra strength from abrasion (stones etc), and heat protection. would it be possible to manafacture new lines with an extra sheath in those parts?
 
This isn’t just a build thread, I’m learning a ton reading everything haha, thanks!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi SickDuc,
I am glad that you find some useful information from this thread.
Please kindly feel free to share information from your experience modifying your bike, I am sure I can learn a lot from you :D



Sunday evening update :D
It's amazing how Freight Forwarding companies like FedEx and also Amazon direct delivery now works on 4th of July and on Sunday. I guess the market is a very strong force :p
So yesterday, during the 4th of July FedEx still work and deliver part of my Goodridge Shadow Series Banjo Adapters order from Summit Racing. One of the banjo adapter below is for the Oberon Clutch Line.
Initially, I want to purchase the Stainless Steel (with Stainless finish) for this banjo adapters, however, only the Shadow Series (Black color) came in the 15Degree angle which I think will fit the ABS line better.
Plus this Shadow Series is also made from Stainless Steel so I decide this is actually better. It will also give good contrast to the ProTi Banjo Bolts (or in the Oberon Case, Stahlbus banjo/bleeder combo).
On Monday, the rest of my Banjo Adapter order from Summit Racing should arrived, and I will take picture to show how it will be oriented on the ABS.
Some of you might ask, why don't just use the "crimped" style connection? Well, I plan to use the crimped connection only when the banjo moves (like on the front caliper and on the front master cylinders).
But on the static connection like on the Oberon clutch slave cylinder or on the ABS, I want to use this banjo adapter so I can use the "SWIVEL" Female 3AN connector. This way, the other end of the hose with the crimped banjo can have their "orientation" easily adjusted :D
IMG_8156.JPG
IMG_8162.JPG


A few days ago, I dig into my old treasures to find what or if any Goodridge parts (from my past Brembo upgrade for my Honda Fit) that I can use and turn out, I have a collections of brand new Cooper Washer and aluminum.
What really caught my eyes was some of the cooper washer are not shiny, while the other one is very shiny:
IMG_8163.JPG



Then, I realize, I also still need to POLISH my upcoming Cooper Nickel Hardline not to mention polishing the rear suspension bracket/link before they undergo Gold Anodizing.
I checked with a local shop and the rate is $125 per hour which I am sure is a normal rate, however, I decided to just bought all the sanding wheel, polishing compound etc and will do the polishing myself, so I can learn how to polish metal :D
So I order them from Amazon Friday evening, and it already arrive today (Sunday).... there are some more polishing compound on the way, but I can't wait to start polishing (including those cooper washer).
They will be so shiny, my smiley emoji will need to wear Dark Glasses :cool: hahaha

IMG_8158.JPG


And wait, there is a bit more...
So I had bought all the ProTi Titanium KIT for my bike, and now I am still buying more bolts from ProTi, to also replace the bolts that ProTi did not sell as a kit...
However, I do have some bolts that I did not use from the ProTi kit because I have further customization. For example there is an M6x20mm ProTi titanium in silver that was part of the rear brake reservoir kit, and I had been trying to find any location that can use this bolt, and I finally found one.

There is one single bolt that hold the braided oil line from the oil cooler, and I was hoping it is an M6 with 20mm in length. So I took it out and turn out it is M6x20mm (with the regular hex socket head).
I was so excited, but then all my socket tools bit for TORX T-30 are too long, and the space in that area is very limited (due to the front exhaust manifold) to install the ProTi bolts using my regular socket bit, so I was unable to tighten the bolt...
This was on Friday evening, and I decided to also order a manual TORX T-30 wrench and Amazon also deliver them today, so I manage to use it:
IMG_8159.JPG
IMG_8160.JPG


And this is the result:
IMG_8161.JPG


I also found some TORX T-30 super short socket and I ordered them today (not arrived yet). hopefully this super short T-30 socket will allow me to use my torque wrench to tightened this bolt to 10Nm. At this moment, it is tightened by my hand...
just want to make sure :D

This 4th of July weekend had been a very productive weekend, however, more parts and modification coming soon :p
 
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I'm starting to see why it's rare that anything other than standard banjo bolt fittings are used on road bikes! so many issues to think about whiist trying to get the right lengths. I reckon for now, with the photos and lengths Raul can supply for the GP4 RX setup, I could get the lines made up for my MC calipers. 2 of the lines entering the abs system have long 90 degree bends, and 2 , 90 degree ish bends in the rear brake line, would be great to see how Raul's final fittings to the abs and rear brake look like. Also, the oem lines use substancial pieces of metal tubing, presumably for extra strength from abrasion (stones etc), and heat protection. would it be possible to manafacture new lines with an extra sheath in those parts?

Hi Chris320,
In case you haven't notice, my brake line upgrade will consist of replicating all those steel hard line but with a "shiny and polished" cooper nickel hardline instead.

I also just ordered (a few hours ago) some Goodridge Fire Protection Sleeve for the area that need extra heat protection. (and at the same time it will also make it look nice with the Goodridge logo :p)

Also, as soon as the rest of my Brembo Shadow Line Adapters arrive (Hopefully tomorrow), you will see how I use those on the ABS side, which will allow for "easy" orientation using "swivel" female AN (or in some area M10x1.0 DIN bubble female swivel connection) even to the other side of the hose that goes to the brake master cylinder, please stay tune :D
Note: it might look hard initially, but after you do it once, it's like building a very long thin Lego :p
 
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Chris320. I am a firm believer in using examples of success in guiding decisions that's why I suggest you first identify exactly what you are trying to accomplish and then look for examples of successful outcomes to emulate. Again there are a lot of guys on this board who have done a variety of successful, road and off road brake component applications. Your decisions will also be based on function over fad or vice versa at some point. Do a google search of any brake setups from BSB, WSBK, ASB, etc. Look at the components and hardware they are using to get some ideas. I am certainly not saying that you need race spec pieces on your street bike or that race pieces are the best solutions for your application but in general, this is the direction of the trickle down performance tree.
 
Chris320. I am a firm believer in using examples of success in guiding decisions that's why I suggest you first identify exactly what you are trying to accomplish and then look for examples of successful outcomes to emulate. Again there are a lot of guys on this board who have done a variety of successful, road and off road brake component applications. Your decisions will also be based on function over fad or vice versa at some point. Do a google search of any brake setups from BSB, WSBK, ASB, etc. Look at the components and hardware they are using to get some ideas. I am certainly not saying that you need race spec pieces on your street bike or that race pieces are the best solutions for your application but in general, this is the direction of the trickle down performance tree.

i agree with what you are saying. i guess im trying to accomplish a 'race bike/ motogp look, thats why i love the nickel plating on the new mc calipers.. of course i don't need them for performance value, but i wanted to swap the standard sylema calipers and needed something better! and like the idea of quick release couplings, but i'm not trying to build the ultimate road/track bike. Standard road superbikes have well exceeded my requirement and capability a long time ago, but like guys on this thread, i like researching and adding parts to my bikes.
 
Hi Chris320,
In case you haven't notice, my brake line upgrade will consist of replicating all those steel hard line but with a "shiny and polished" cooper nickel hardline instead.

I also just ordered (a few hours ago) some Goodridge Fire Protection Sleeve for the area that need extra heat protection. (and at the same time it will also make it look nice with the Goodridge logo :p)

Also, as soon as the rest of my Brembo Shadow Line Adapters arrive (Hopefully tomorrow), you will see how I use those on the ABS side, which will allow for "easy" orientation using "swivel" female AN (or in some area M10x1.0 DIN bubble female swivel connection) even to the other side of the hose that goes to the brake master cylinder, please stay tune :D
Note: it might look hard initially, but after you do it once, it's like building a very long thin Lego :p
hi, yes i was aware from the thread, you planned to use the copper nickel lines.far too difficult for me, but am looking forward to see your finished products!
 
Hi SickDuc,
I am glad that you find some useful information from this thread.
Please kindly feel free to share information from your experience modifying your bike, I am sure I can learn a lot from you :D



Sunday evening update :D
It's amazing how Freight Forwarding companies like FedEx and also Amazon direct delivery now works on 4th of July and on Sunday. I guess the market is a very strong force :p
So yesterday, during the 4th of July FedEx still work and deliver part of my Goodridge Shadow Series Banjo Adapters order from Summit Racing. One of the banjo adapter below is for the Oberon Clutch Line.
Initially, I want to purchase the Stainless Steel (with Stainless finish) for this banjo adapters, however, only the Shadow Series (Black color) came in the 15Degree angle which I think will fit the ABS line better.
Plus this Shadow Series is also made from Stainless Steel so I decide this is actually better. It will also give good contrast to the ProTi Banjo Bolts (or in the Oberon Case, Stahlbus banjo/bleeder combo).
On Monday, the rest of my Banjo Adapter order from Summit Racing should arrived, and I will take picture to show how it will be oriented on the ABS.
Some of you might ask, why don't just use the "crimped" style connection? Well, I plan to use the crimped connection only when the banjo moves (like on the front caliper and on the front master cylinders).
But on the static connection like on the Oberon clutch slave cylinder or on the ABS, I want to use this banjo adapter so I can use the "SWIVEL" Female 3AN connector. This way, the other end of the hose with the crimped banjo can have their "orientation" easily adjusted :D
View attachment 32602View attachment 32603

A few days ago, I dig into my old treasures to find what or if any Goodridge parts (from my past Brembo upgrade for my Honda Fit) that I can use and turn out, I have a collections of brand new Cooper Washer and aluminum.
What really caught my eyes was some of the cooper washer are not shiny, while the other one is very shiny:
View attachment 32605


Then, I realize, I also still need to POLISH my upcoming Cooper Nickel Hardline not to mention polishing the rear suspension bracket/link before they undergo Gold Anodizing.
I checked with a local shop and the rate is $125 per hour which I am sure is a normal rate, however, I decided to just bought all the sanding wheel, polishing compound etc and will do the polishing myself, so I can learn how to polish metal :D
So I order them from Amazon Friday evening, and it already arrive today (Sunday).... there are some more polishing compound on the way, but I can't wait to start polishing (including those cooper washer).
They will be so shiny, my smiley emoji will need to wear Dark Glasses :cool: hahaha

View attachment 32604

And wait, there is a bit more...
So I had bought all the ProTi Titanium KIT for my bike, and now I am still buying more bolts from ProTi, to also replace the bolts that ProTi did not sell as a kit...
However, I do have some bolts that I did not use from the ProTi kit because I have further customization. For example there is an M6x20mm ProTi titanium in silver that was part of the rear brake reservoir kit, and I had been trying to find any location that can use this bolt, and I finally found one.

There is one single bolt that hold the braided oil line from the oil cooler, and I was hoping it is an M6 with 20mm in length. So I took it out and turn out it is M6x20mm (with the regular hex socket head).
I was so excited, but then all my socket tools bit for TORX T-30 are too long, and the space in that area is very limited (due to the front exhaust manifold) to install the ProTi bolts using my regular socket bit, so I was unable to tighten the bolt...
This was on Friday evening, and I decided to also order a manual TORX T-30 wrench and Amazon also deliver them today, so I manage to use it:
View attachment 32606View attachment 32607

And this is the result:
View attachment 32608

I also found some TORX T-30 super short socket and I ordered them today (not arrived yet). hopefully this super short T-30 socket will allow me to use my torque wrench to tightened this bolt to 10Nm. At this moment, it is tightened by my hand...
just want to make sure :D

This 4th of July weekend had been a very productive weekend, however, more parts and modification coming soon :p
Try Solvol Autosol great for polishing metal
They have some different products
 
Both the ChaseBay F shape distribution block and the rest of the Goodridge Shadow Line Banjo Adapters arrived today.
The ChaseBay F shape distribution block is VERY compact and perfect to be place on the original location above the radiator.
It also came with 2 Female Tube Nuts and the inserts in case you want to plumb a hardline tubing to it.
Both pictures shows the size in both cm (metric) and inches to illustrate how compact it is:

IMG_8165.JPG
IMG_8167.JPG


This is the location where I will make some kind of bracket to hold it just above the radiator (like the plastic bracket that hold the original steel hardline):
IMG_8171.JPG


Here is the rest of the goodridge banjo adapters:
IMG_8166.JPG


And now, please pay attention to their location on the ABS module:
IMG_8168.JPG


I am start taking measurement for the Goodridge Flexible 700 Series Aramid Hose using a flexible measuring tape so I can fully follow the plan "contour" of the hose:
IMG_8172.JPG
IMG_8174.JPG


about half an hour later, I already have the measurements of all the flexible braided line and ready to order it. Once they arrive, then I can "Adjust" the hardline measurement by cutting the hardline (and bending it) myself.
Of course you can also just copy the length from the original Ducati brake line, but I want to modify it so it will have more sections using hardline and as less as possible of flexible line because the flexible line, no matter how good they are will have more "expansion effect" under full pressure thus giving less firm feeling, especially since our bike have a LONG LONG line back and forth to the ABS.

Below is the bill of material (BOM) for the Goodridge 700 series Aramid braided lines and using all stainless fitting. (the latest letter on the part# C means Stainless, while CBK means Stainless Black Shadow line)
Some of the fitting only available in C (Stainless Steel).

a. From ABS terminal to the hardline that goes to the Rear Master Cylinder
90 degree Forged Female Connector, S6090-03C with hose length of 8cm (centimeters, because I am from Metric world :p), and Female Metric Concave Swivel S451-31C

b. From Rear Master Cylinder to the hardline that goes to ABS terminal
70 degree Banjo with Extended Neck, S5070-03CBK with hose length of 14cm, and Female Metric Concave Swivel S451-31C

c. From ABS terminal to the hardline that goes to the Rear CALIPER
90 degree Forged Female Connector, S6090-03C with hose length of 19cm, and Female Metric Concave Swivel S451-31C

d. Flexible hose at the swing arm pivot
Female Metric Concave Swivel S451-31C with hose length of 16cm, and Female Metric Concave Swivel S451-31C

e. Final Flexible hose that connect to the Staubli Quick Dry connector at the Rear Caliper
Female Metric Concave Swivel S451-31C with hose length of 14cm, and Straight Female Concave Seat -AN3 S6001-03CBK

f. From ABS terminal to hardline that goes to Front Master cylinder
Straight Female Concave Seat -AN3 S6001-03CBK with hose length of 10cm, and Female Metric Concave Swivel S451-31C

g. From RCS17 Corsa Corta Front Master Cylinder to the hardline that goes to ABS terminal
Female Metric Concave Swivel S451-31C with hose length of 21cm, and 45 degree Banjo with extended neck S5094-03CBK

h. From ABS terminal to hardline that goes to ChaseBay "F" distribution block
45 degree Forged Female Concave -AN3 Connector S6045-03C with hose length of 3cm, and Female Metric Concave Swivel S451-31C

i. Clutch line
Straight Female Concave Seat -AN3 S6001-03CBK with hose length of 88cm and 2 rubber grommet, and 45 degree Banjo Extended Neck S5094-03CBK

The only 2 lines that I had not included in the bill of material above are the 2 final lines from the ChaseBay "F" connector to the front left and right caliper,
because I want to bolted the ChaseBay "F" connector with a bracket first before I measure the ideal length of the hose that will goes to the Left and Right Staubli Quick Dry connector and then to the Front Calipers.
However, I already know the end fitting of both which will be

45 degree Forged Female Concave -AN3 Connector S6045-03C with 1 rubber grommet on each hose and ended with Straight Female Concave Seat -AN3 S6001-03CBK that will connect to the Staubli.


Ok, now all I need to do is get a quote from Goodridge because all the connections above are secured using Crimping style and I don't want to spent a few thousand dollars to purchase crimping machine :p
I could build all the hose above myself, but then I got to use the 600 series regular stainless steel braided use and use the "reusable" crimping end fitting. Since for this build I am determined to use the 700 series Aramid Fiber hose which only accept crimping to secure it to their fitting, so I got to pay Goodridge to build all the hoses above for me.

I also need to place an order for the Cooper Nickel hard tubing (which is cheap), but all the tooling needed,
It will cost me about $1,000 for the cooper nickel hard tubing and all the tooling (Earl's flared tooling alone is already almost $500).
I want to buy the best and most versatile tooling so I can use it for future brake line projects (not that I plan to do any right now :D)


oh, last, I found that the most flexible banjo shape to use for the RCS Corsa Corta master cylinder would be a 45 degree banjo, which I found by simulation using the 45 degree Goodridge Banjo adapter that I have (ignore the Stalhbus banjo bleeder in this picture, I just use it to secure the 45 degree banjo when I was doing the simulation):
IMG_8173.JPG
 
Both the ChaseBay F shape distribution block and the rest of the Goodridge Shadow Line Banjo Adapters arrived today.
The ChaseBay F shape distribution block is VERY compact and perfect to be place on the original location above the radiator.
It also came with 2 Female Tube Nuts and the inserts in case you want to plumb a hardline tubing to it.
Both pictures shows the size in both cm (metric) and inches to illustrate how compact it is:

View attachment 32641View attachment 32642

This is the location where I will make some kind of bracket to hold it just above the radiator (like the plastic bracket that hold the original steel hardline):
View attachment 32643

Here is the rest of the goodridge banjo adapters:
View attachment 32644

And now, please pay attention to their location on the ABS module:
View attachment 32645

I am start taking measurement for the Goodridge Flexible 700 Series Aramid Hose using a flexible measuring tape so I can fully follow the plan "contour" of the hose:
View attachment 32646View attachment 32647

about half an hour later, I already have the measurements of all the flexible braided line and ready to order it. Once they arrive, then I can "Adjust" the hardline measurement by cutting the hardline (and bending it) myself.
Of course you can also just copy the length from the original Ducati brake line, but I want to modify it so it will have more sections using hardline and as less as possible of flexible line because the flexible line, no matter how good they are will have more "expansion effect" under full pressure thus giving less firm feeling, especially since our bike have a LONG LONG line back and forth to the ABS.

Below is the bill of material (BOM) for the Goodridge 700 series Aramid braided lines and using all stainless fitting. (the latest letter on the part# C means Stainless, while CBK means Stainless Black Shadow line)
Some of the fitting only available in C (Stainless Steel).

a. From ABS terminal to the hardline that goes to the Rear Master Cylinder
90 degree Forged Female Connector, S6090-03C with hose length of 8cm (centimeters, because I am from Metric world :p), and Female Metric Concave Swivel S451-31C

b. From Rear Master Cylinder to the hardline that goes to ABS terminal
70 degree Banjo with Extended Neck, S5070-03CBK with hose length of 14cm, and Female Metric Concave Swivel S451-31C

c. From ABS terminal to the hardline that goes to the Rear CALIPER
90 degree Forged Female Connector, S6090-03C with hose length of 19cm, and Female Metric Concave Swivel S451-31C

d. Flexible hose at the swing arm pivot
Female Metric Concave Swivel S451-31C with hose length of 16cm, and Female Metric Concave Swivel S451-31C

e. Final Flexible hose that connect to the Staubli Quick Dry connector at the Rear Caliper
Female Metric Concave Swivel S451-31C with hose length of 14cm, and Straight Female Concave Seat -AN3 S6001-03CBK

f. From ABS terminal to hardline that goes to Front Master cylinder
Straight Female Concave Seat -AN3 S6001-03CBK with hose length of 10cm, and Female Metric Concave Swivel S451-31C

g. From RCS17 Corsa Corta Front Master Cylinder to the hardline that goes to ABS terminal
Female Metric Concave Swivel S451-31C with hose length of 21cm, and 45 degree Banjo with extended neck S5094-03CBK

h. From ABS terminal to hardline that goes to ChaseBay "F" distribution block
45 degree Forged Female Concave -AN3 Connector S6045-03C with hose length of 3cm, and Female Metric Concave Swivel S451-31C

i. Clutch line
Straight Female Concave Seat -AN3 S6001-03CBK with hose length of 88cm and 2 rubber grommet, and 45 degree Banjo Extended Neck S5094-03CBK

The only 2 lines that I had not included in the bill of material above are the 2 final lines from the ChaseBay "F" connector to the front left and right caliper,
because I want to bolted the ChaseBay "F" connector with a bracket first before I measure the ideal length of the hose that will goes to the Left and Right Staubli Quick Dry connector and then to the Front Calipers.
However, I already know the end fitting of both which will be

45 degree Forged Female Concave -AN3 Connector S6045-03C with 1 rubber grommet on each hose and ended with Straight Female Concave Seat -AN3 S6001-03CBK that will connect to the Staubli.


Ok, now all I need to do is get a quote from Goodridge because all the connections above are secured using Crimping style and I don't want to spent a few thousand dollars to purchase crimping machine :p
I could build all the hose above myself, but then I got to use the 600 series regular stainless steel braided use and use the "reusable" crimping end fitting. Since for this build I am determined to use the 700 series Aramid Fiber hose which only accept crimping to secure it to their fitting, so I got to pay Goodridge to build all the hoses above for me.

I also need to place an order for the Cooper Nickel hard tubing (which is cheap), but all the tooling needed,
It will cost me about $1,000 for the cooper nickel hard tubing and all the tooling (Earl's flared tooling alone is already almost $500).
I want to buy the best and most versatile tooling so I can use it for future brake line projects (not that I plan to do any right now :D)


oh, last, I found that the most flexible banjo shape to use for the RCS Corsa Corta master cylinder would be a 45 degree banjo, which I found by simulation using the 45 degree Goodridge Banjo adapter that I have (ignore the Stalhbus banjo bleeder in this picture, I just use it to secure the 45 degree banjo when I was doing the simulation):
View attachment 32648

BMW Alpina
I am looking forward to seeing this Goodridge aramid fibre line next to the copper line. I am busy doing a massive clean of the car garage and checking out your post while having a break. Would rather be working on a bike than cleaning the garage. You are finding some interesting pieces and great leads on equipment for others.
 

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