Ducati Panigale V4 916 25 Anniversario Build Thread

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Howard you need to chill! Not sure what personal photos you are talking about? Share them if you like so we can see what you are referring to. I have better things to do with my time. Yes I own a Lamborghini, MV and other toys but I am down to earth and help everyone. You want to be angry fine!

Oh, Raul,
Did you forgot the picture of your living room where you sipping wine facing the Thames river (that you mentioned many times to make sure I know that you are living a high roller baller live in your apartment near the Thames river?)
or the picture of your wife and her range rover, and you having very nice fancy dinner with your wife cleavage exposed?
You sent those the first (or second) time we chat, and I NEVER ask for those personal pictures nor I want to know.
heck you even sending me a video of all the mods you had done to your bike TWICE, or that video of you starting your lamborghini or picture of you new lamborghini license plate.... and some other that I already forgot.
Do you think by showing those pictures and videos, people will do what ever you ask them to do? It might work sometime to PEASANT or people with weak mind but don't expect it to charm everyone.

I understand that some people like to show off (including me), but you are just too much...

however, I still try to be nice to you that time and only send back picture of my old Porsches and Ferraris just to "remind you" not to act too much like the "newly rich", but you don't get it do you?
and instead of showing picture of my wife, I show a picture of my son's VALEDICTORIAN medal,... just to "remind you" that you are NOT dealing with "weak minded" people, do you remember that?

If you are so down to earth, how come I know all the above about you? I never ask you about all the above here in this forum?
(oh and a REAL "down to earth" person will NOT claim they are "down to earth")
and NO, I don't have or want to keep your personal pictures, when I said I delete my WhatsApp, that means I really delete it along with those pictures.

you start temper tantrum just because I refuse to share the CAD files created by my younger son, that belong to me. As I had said many times, that is LIABILITY ISSUE.
and for someone who seemed to have lots of money, you sure are CHEAP in paying mechanic (or CAD Designer) to work for you.

there is a saying (for dog):
Don't 'Bite the Hand That Feeds You
 
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You're worried about liability for sharing a cad file? That's laughable and over the top.

There are far more reasons on this forum that people could technically be liable for than just sharing a cad file.

Saying something like "I just don't care to help you or share this file with you" is a far better and more respectable response than "i won't share this for liability reasons"

That CAD files hold a brake distribution block. If some mistake were done when installing it, (for any reason), someone could die.
You need to know, in this crazy world, LIABILITY and LEGAL issue can have deep consequences.
I already show the idea, is someone wants to copy it (use my idea as inspiration), be my guess, I am fine, but don't expect any help from me again due to LIABILITY issue.

Now, you might be different, and look at legal issue differently (even as you said about "laughable", but not me. I take LEGAL and LIABILITY issue seriously.

and I helped Raul more than you know.
 
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Oh wow! This is insane! I just watched that movie with Russel Crowe called “unhinged”
I can imagine you doing that but on a Ducati :)
 
Can you send me the Cad file now! I’m cheap sad and a show off and my wife has big breasts. I apologise!
 
Oh wow! This is insane! I just watched that movie with Russel Crowe called “unhinged”
I can imagine you doing that but on a Ducati :)

[
by the way Howard I am not a show off at all. If I was I would do .... like this.View attachment 33376

Can you send me the Cad file now! I’m cheap sad and a show off and my wife has big breasts. I apologise!

oh Raul...
So glad I could make you smile, even though you must feel hahahahaha :)

and your latest posts really shows who you really are :p

are you sure you are ok? feel any anger? hahahaha

if you want to learn more about yourself, check this link, I mean, what kind of person admit to use his own wife's big "augmented" breast to try to impress other???... well this link really describe you well :D
How to Spot a Narcissistic Sociopath

My last advice (and information) to you,
Before it is too late (and could get you in trouble like... jail) please remember help is just "a phone call away"

keep on posting Raul, the more you post the more... hahaha :)
you know what feel free to continue, you are just another person in this world that have "issue"... I understand, I won't punish you anymore, I really pity you :)
 
Cool. Now can you send me the cad file and can you start talking about bikes again. This is boring and nobody is interested.
 
Up until now I guess most of the mods you have done have been subjective (gold bolts everywhere for example) but each to their own, we all have our own tastes. The ONLY thing I could not bring myself to live with are the carbon wrapped inner fairing panels. The weave is such that it is clearly looks as if it's not real carbon but again, all I will say is if you like it, that is all that really matters. For me personally, I would remove it, as it cheapens the look of the bike. I am sure in the fullness of time a carbon part will be made available, be that through Carbonvani or Peter Lieb, though I wouldn't buy anything from Carbonvani, if my life depended on it, as from personal experience the fit, finish, accuracy and quality of his parts are plain dreadful. Good luck with the rest of the build.
 
I think that little plastic section makes no sense. That’s why I had painted mine black. You can buy them in full carbon but the anniversary model has black sections so it does not look right in full Carbon in my opinion.
 
I am not a fan of the gold bolt thing either! I went for straight silver Titanium and tried to keep things simple and clean. I like
What Howard did with the number 1 though and used that as inspiration and a few other things but maybe once he has finished everything might all work. I think when modifying it is about making tasteful mods and making improvements. I think splitting the brakes is a good idea on the front Calipers.
 
I am not a fan of the gold bolt thing either! I went for straight silver Titanium and tried to keep things simple and clean. I like
What Howard did with the number 1 though and used that as inspiration and a few other things but maybe once he has finished everything might all work. I think when modifying it is about making tasteful mods and making improvements. I think splitting the brakes is a good idea on the front Calipers.

Well I'm going a different route (more akin to the SPS style of older Ducatis, with a magnesium coloured frame and swing arm and Cerakoting several parts (as opposed to anodising), which is expensive but the coating is near bomb-proof and is far less likely to get damaged/scratched/chipped even after prolonged use. I've got a fairly sizeable double garage/annexe construction nearing completion after 14 weeks work, hence why my own V4 project is on hold at the moment, as the bike has been in storage for over a year now awaiting it's new home. All being well I can pick up where I left off in a few more weeks.
 
Up until now I guess most of the mods you have done have been subjective (gold bolts everywhere for example) but each to their own, we all have our own tastes. The ONLY thing I could not bring myself to live with are the carbon wrapped inner fairing panels. The weave is such that it is clearly looks as if it's not real carbon but again, all I will say is if you like it, that is all that really matters. For me personally, I would remove it, as it cheapens the look of the bike. I am sure in the fullness of time a carbon part will be made available, be that through Carbonvani or Peter Lieb, though I wouldn't buy anything from Carbonvani, if my life depended on it, as from personal experience the fit, finish, accuracy and quality of his parts are plain dreadful. Good luck with the rest of the build.

Hello Topolino,

Yes, everyone have their own taste, it could be because everyone have "literally" different eyes and brain.
What I mean by that is, the shade of color that my brain saw (after interpreting data from my eyes) "might" be different than the shade of color that your brain decode from the input from your eyes.
This explain why some would love certain color while other do not like certain colors.

However, not all the bolts (on my bike) is in Gold color but I am using contrast and gradation to guide my choice of the ProTi color.
If you notice, for the front caliper (at least at this moment with the stock Stylema caliper), because the color of the caliper (greyish) combine with the AELLA Titanium caliper spacer and also AELLA special washer in Titanium Silver, I choose ProTi Titanium in Titanium Silver Color.

The same thing with the Banjo bolts, because I will be using Cooper washer (which I will polish to mirror finish), I choose ProTi Titanium Banjo bolts in Titanium Silver Color.
However for the upcoming rear brake, where the Brembo CNC rear caliper is in the old style Brembo hard anodized color, I decided to use ProTi Titanium Caliper halves Bolts, Pin and Banjo Bolts in Gold color there.
(I even do some color matching experiment for the Brembo CNC rear caliper that I posted here a few pages back).

For the rest of the fairings, the ProTi Titanium in Gold color will give nice contrast with the Black, Red and White fairings, while silver bolts will look... "ordinary" and "nothing special".

However, for the Rizoma Rear Set, I went back to ProTi Titanium bolts in Titanium Silver because the way the finish of the Rizoma make it more suitable to combine with high brilliance of ProTi Titanium Bolts in Titanium Silver color providing a nice gradation.

Another thing I want to point out is the material of the bolts. From your thread, I notice all your bolts were made from STAINLESS STEEL material which of course usually available in either silver or black stainless steel only.
So, by choosing STAINLESS STEEL as your preferred material of choice on your build, you are more limited in color choices. However STAINLESS STEEL have advantage in pricing of course compare to the more expensive Titanium Bolts, but Stainless Steel are heavier than Titanium and could possibly be heavier than some of the stock bolts (which of course won't matter much unless you also after weight reduction which is not my priority and I believe not your priority too).

While TITANIUM Bolts material like the bolts I source from ProTi are available in Gold, Titanium Silver, Blue, and Black color. So this gave me more freedom to choose (although I stay with Gold and Silver Titanium only) depend on location and contrasting background.

Another thing I notice (from your post) was that in some of your rear suspension link, the stainless steel bolt that you originally plan to use did not have the proper strength that the original steel alloy bolt from Ducati has, so you revert back to the original Ducati steel alloy bolt. I solve this by using an even higher grade Steel alloy bolt than the original Ducati steel alloy bolt, than coat them with TiN (Titanium Nitride) coating so it will have even higher strength than original ducati steel bolt plus the looks of TiN (Gold) to give contrast. Stay tune once I am finish with my install and you can see what I mean.

Regarding the plastic panel that I wrapped with carbon, like what I said a few days ago, I am going to wait until I install all the fairings back and see how it look with the rest of the fairing and carbon panel. The beauty of wrap is, you can take it out anytime you want, unlike painting. However, just like the bolts color that I choose for gradient and contrast, it is the same principal here. I would like to see a contrast between this plastic panel with the black painted area above it. Painting it all in the same color will make it lost contrast (plain). You need contrast just like the way Ducati paint the number 1 in black, but put a "white" background on my bike. So if somehow the contrast that the 3M carbon fiber wrap provided did not match the rest of the panel, I will simply take it out and let the original plastic color be the "contrast" again.

Back to the 3M carbon fiber wrap, I used it on my car for front lower lips and they look like real carbon fiber. Some people use resin to coat them and the result is like a real carbon fiber, because their surface is not smooth and feel like a carbon fiber weave. In fact, if I post here that I replaced that plastic bit with carbon fiber, I am sure people will thought it is a real matte carbon fiber (just different weave and bit shinier than the original Ducati/Peter Lieb).
Also. if you recall, only a small rectangular section of this plastic part will be exposed after they were installed, so I want to see how it looks after I install everything.

Yap, I won't buy Carbonvanni parts either, for me the quality of a carbon fiber is determine not only from the finish (color), but more from the FIT. (Fitting it without "adjustment").

I will not replace any plastic part with carbon fiber just for the sake of replacing a plastic, especially if the quality of the carbon fiber part "FIT" is actually lower than the original plastic parts. A carbon Fiber part that FIT without any "adjustment needed" show the precision of the mold and craftsmanship of the maker which mean the engineering quality.

I do appreciate your pioneering in Samco hoses (that Samco use your hoses as template for their first Samco hoses offering), I also will take out all the upper air box to properly install the Samco hose (like you did) and also Thank You for recommending the Mikalor clamp.
 
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Hello Topolino,

Yes, everyone have their own taste, it could be because everyone have "literally" different eyes and brain.
What I mean by that is, the shade of color that my brain saw (after interpreting data from my eyes) "might" be different than the shade of color that your brain decode from the input from your eyes.
This explain why some would love certain color while other do not like certain colors.

However, not all the bolts (on my bike) is in Gold color but I am using contrast and gradation to guide my choice of the ProTi color.
If you notice, for the front caliper (at least at this moment with the stock Stylema caliper), because the color of the caliper (greyish) combine with the AELLA Titanium caliper spacer and also AELLA special washer in Titanium Silver, I choose ProTi Titanium in Titanium Silver Color.

The same thing with the Banjo bolts, because I will be using Cooper washer (which I will polish to mirror finish), I choose ProTi Titanium Banjo bolts in Titanium Silver Color.
However for the upcoming rear brake, where the Brembo CNC rear caliper is in the old style Brembo hard anodized color, I decided to use ProTi Titanium Caliper halves Bolts, Pin and Banjo Bolts in Gold color there.
(I even do some color matching experiment for the Brembo CNC rear caliper that I posted here a few pages back).

For the rest of the fairings, the ProTi Titanium in Gold color will give nice contrast with the Black, Red and White fairings, while silver bolts will look... "ordinary" and "nothing special".

However, for the Rizoma Rear Set, I went back to ProTi Titanium bolts in Titanium Silver because the way the finish of the Rizoma make it more suitable to combine with high brilliance of ProTi Titanium Bolts in Titanium Silver color providing a nice gradation.

Another thing I want to point out is the material of the bolts. From your thread, I notice all your bolts were made from STAINLESS STEEL material which of course usually available in either silver or black stainless steel only.
So, by choosing STAINLESS STEEL as your preferred material of choice on your build, you are more limited in color choices. However STAINLESS STEEL have advantage in pricing of course compare to the more expensive Titanium Bolts, but Stainless Steel are heavier than Titanium and could possibly be heavier than some of the stock bolts (which of course won't matter much unless you also after weight reduction which is not my priority and I believe not your priority too).

While TITANIUM Bolts material like the bolts I source from ProTi are available in Gold, Titanium Silver, Blue, and Black color. So this gave me more freedom to choose (although I stay with Gold and Silver Titanium only) depend on location and contrasting background.

Another thing I notice (from your post) was that in some of your rear suspension link, the stainless steel bolt that you originally plan to use did not have the proper strength that the original steel alloy bolt from Ducati has, so you revert back to the original Ducati steel alloy bolt. I solve this by using an even higher grade Steel alloy bolt than the original Ducati steel alloy bolt, than coat them with TiN (Titanium Nitride) coating so it will have even higher strength than original ducati steel bolt plus the looks of TiN (Gold) to give contrast. Stay tune once I am finish with my install and you can see what I mean.

Regarding the plastic panel that I wrapped with carbon, like what I said a few days ago, I am going to wait until I install all the fairings back and see how it look with the rest of the fairing and carbon panel. The beauty of wrap is, you can take it out anytime you want, unlike painting. However, just like the bolts color that I choose for gradient and contrast, it is the same principal here. I would like to see a contrast between this plastic panel with the black painted area above it. Painting it all in the same color will make it lost contrast (plain). You need contrast just like the way Ducati paint the number 1 in black, but put a "white" background on my bike. So if somehow the contrast that the 3M carbon fiber wrap provided did not match the rest of the panel, I will simply take it out and let the original plastic color be the "contrast" again.

Back to the 3M carbon fiber wrap, I used it on my car for front lower lips and they look like real carbon fiber. Some people use resin to coat them and the result is like a real carbon fiber, because their surface is not smooth and feel like a carbon fiber weave. In fact, if I post here that I replaced that plastic bit with carbon fiber, I am sure people will thought it is a real matte carbon fiber (just different weave and bit shinier than the original Ducati/Peter Lieb).
Also. if you recall, only a small rectangular section of this plastic part will be exposed after they were installed, so I want to see how it looks after I install everything.

Yap, I won't buy Carbonvanni parts either, for me the quality of a carbon fiber is determine not only from the finish (color), but more from the FIT. (Fitting it without "adjustment").

I will not replace any plastic part with carbon fiber just for the sake of replacing a plastic, especially if the quality of the carbon fiber part "FIT" is actually lower than the original plastic parts. A carbon Fiber part that FIT without any "adjustment needed" show the precision of the mold and craftsmanship of the maker which mean the engineering quality.

I do appreciate your pioneering in Samco hoses (that Samco use your hoses as template for their first Samco hoses offering), I also will take out all the upper air box to properly install the Samco hose (like you did) and also Thank You for recommending the Mikalor clamp.

My priority lies more in ensuring the bolts retain their finish and don't corrode or oxidize, rather than weight chasing or colours per se. Weight saving has never really been an issue for me and at 70Kg, I'm not sure I need to find every last gram I could potentially shave off the bike. I went back to the OEM suspension link plate bolts, as the tensile strength needed (110Nm torque) was not available in anything other than a very expensive one off set of bolts (which I had made) but which failed (threads stretched) so I elected to have the three OEM bolts Cerakoted instead (which is about the toughest coating you can apply to metal parts on the market), since they are safety critical and I didn't want to run to the expense of another set. I'm sure your panels will look fine when fitted. I'm just not a lover of the weave of that particular wrap. I have seen others wrap the nose vents with similar products but the weave pattern was much closer to the carbon typically used by MS, Ilmberger, Fullsix and Peter Lieb, so arguably more convincing. Glad the Samco element of the build helped you out. Not sure why they continue to supply JCS hose clamps with the kit however, as they just don't fit properly, hence Mikalor was the best option to use and ensures a tight seal around the T-stat bosses. One word of caution. Be very careful when you come to re-assemble the moving trumpets/inlets tracts. Their setup is critical and you need to ensure you set them correctly or better still remove them together with the stepper motor attached so you do not disturb the relative linkage positions, else you will end up with problems later. I did not at first and it took me a while to figure out how to correct it. Learning by my mistakes.
 
My priority lies more in ensuring the bolts retain their finish and don't corrode or oxidize, rather than weight chasing or colours per se. Weight saving has never really been an issue for me and at 70Kg, I'm not sure I need to find every last gram I could potentially shave off the bike. I went back to the OEM suspension link plate bolts, as the tensile strength needed (110Nm torque) was not available in anything other than a very expensive one off set of bolts (which I had made) but which failed (threads stretched) so I elected to have the three OEM bolts Cerakoted instead (which is about the toughest coating you can apply to metal parts on the market), since they are safety critical and I didn't want to run to the expense of another set. I'm sure your panels will look fine when fitted. I'm just not a lover of the weave of that particular wrap. I have seen others wrap the nose vents with similar products but the weave pattern was much closer to the carbon typically used by MS, Ilmberger, Fullsix and Peter Lieb, so arguably more convincing. Glad the Samco element of the build helped you out. Not sure why they continue to supply JCS hose clamps with the kit however, as they just don't fit properly, hence Mikalor was the best option to use and ensures a tight seal around the T-stat bosses. One word of caution. Be very careful when you come to re-assemble the moving trumpets/inlets tracts. Their setup is critical and you need to ensure you set them correctly or better still remove them together with the stepper motor attached so you do not disturb the relative linkage positions, else you will end up with problems later. I did not at first and it took me a while to figure out how to correct it. Learning by my mistakes.

If corrosion resistant is your priority, then I strongly recommend and you definitely should consider Titanium bolts in your future build (I guess too late for your current bike since you already purchased those stainless steel bolts and even installed most of them).
I also noticed that the bolt you purchased from Accu in UK were only the A2 or 304 stainless steel grade which have LESS resistant to corrosion than the A4 or 316 Stainless Steel grade.
I see that Accu also offer most of them in A4/316?
Why don't you purchase your bolts with the A4/316 Stainless Steel material?

Now, Titanium has an even BETTER corrosion resistant to even the A4/316 Stainless Steel. Yes, even 316 Stainless Steel can corrode.
This is a link to good article discussing this corrosion resistant issue: https://tantaline.com/DOCs/Technica...ublications_corrosion_sensitive_equipment.pdf

By the way, I also learned it the hard way when I was designing my family water (ultra) purification plant 24 years ago. I initially choose a 316 Stainless Steel sensors (To SAVE COST) for our Resistivity meter but since it was exposed to both NaOH and H2S04 solution (diluted) during the regeneration process, the 316 Stainless Sensor still corrode. Problem solve when I replaced those 316 Stainless Steel sensors with TITANIUM sensors.

Below is the link to Resistivity meter that I was talking about, amazing the company still in business with the same name after more than 2 decades ago
750 Series II Resistivity Monitor/controller
when you scroll down the webpage you will find this paragraph:
RESISTIVITY SENSORS

All 750 Series II Resistivity models require a CS10 series sensor. This reliable sensor features two integral thermistors to ensure accurate and rapid automatic temperature compensation.

The sturdy polypropylene standard bushing is modular for easy, inexpensive replacement.

A PVDF or 316 stainless steel bushing can also be ordered.

The metal portion is available in either 316 stainless steel (standard) or titanium.
 
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