Slip-on exhaust - ECU calibration

DucatiKev said:

HealTech for the win. The one in the pix in the following link is the one I have installed. Good luck!

https://ducatiforum.com/threads/v4-exaust-eliminator-healtech-ese-d03.31734/#post-315221

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And now my second post, just to atone for the hijacking and get the discussion back to ECU gizmos...

Kev, that thread discusses, over time, how Versions 1 and 2 do not work properly. At the very end of the discussion in late 2019 one person announces that Version 3 seems to work. No further confirmation after that. No other people confirm. Are you confident this device now works (and does not eventually stop working) on the V4?

Pete T said:

And now my second post, just to atone for the hijacking and get the discussion back to ECU gizmos...

Kev, that thread discusses, over time, how Versions 1 and 2 do not work properly. At the very end of the discussion in late 2019 one person announces that Version 3 seems to work. No further confirmation after that. No other people confirm. Are you confident this device now works (and does not eventually stop working) on the V4?

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Hey bud, it’s working great for my 2020 model. It really is just a quick patch while I wait (patiently) for my tuner to obtain the tools for a real Dyno/street tune which will turn off the computer checking for the electronic exhaust components. That’s the real cure, this this is just a bandaid but no lights yet

Pete T said:

Kev this deserves it's own thread

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thanks but I’m not allowed to make any new threads. I was mistaken thinking this is a place for social interaction

as far as the wheel nut and hijacking threads, go right ahead, idc.
I don’t touch my whee nut, I like mouthing off on here but “I’m scared to touch a wrench to the bike”

Pete T said:

Kev this deserves it's own thread - it'll be lost under the ECU discussion - but thanks for posting it. And now I have to ask a question which hijacks this ECU thread...

So...our rear wheel nut, our single solitary sole wheel nut, that is torqued to 230Nm...is that figure with or without anti-seize? (I've got a feeling it is WITH anti-seize, or what Ducati docs call grease "B" or lube "B" or something like that.) A 30% reduction would take it down to 161Nm which is a mighty big difference. Anybody know for sure?

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Hi Pete T,
the 230Nm is with this Grease "B":
Amazon.com: SHELL GADUS S2 V220AD 2 HIGH PERFORMANCE MULTIPURPOSE EXTREME PRESSURE GREASE WITH SOLIDS 400GM: Automotive

Make sure you purchase the one on the link above
V220AD 2 HIGH PERFORMANCE MULTIPURPOSE EXTREME PRESSURE GREASE WITH SOLIDS

because, there is a similar version but not AD2 and without some solids content on it. (which I initially purchase the wrong but similar one)

You can use other grease/anti seize, but those other grease might have affect the torque measurement (more slippery or less slippery then the V220AD 2 due to different properties of the grease/anti seize).

BMW Alpina said:

Hi Pete T,
the 230Nm is with this Grease "B":

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Thanks for the confirmation BMW, and yes thankyou I'll make sure to get the higher spec grease. I often take the rear wheel off when cleaning. Also saves $50 when getting a new tyre put on.

ArcticWhite said:

How does it run without tuning? Cruise at about 5800rpm in 6th for a few minutes and tell me if you run into any lean issues

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Mine is running just fine, as far as I can tell on the wet streets, shifts are better than ever (now that it’s reverse shift)

We’ll see what’s up on Thursday on the Dyno. But it’s not running hot, juttering, hesitating or misbehaving in any way

Can you describe what your bike does at 5,800 RPM? I did a highway run and it held constant speed just fine

Not to poop on anyone’s parade but as I posted earlier, when I installed slipons on a prior bike, initially the bike seemed to run fine. It took weeks, maybe even months, for the bike to learn the exhaust and for it to eventually throw an O2 sensor fault for running too lean.

Im glad it seems to be running well now though. I hope it stays that way for you!

ArcticWhite said:

How does it run without tuning? Cruise at about 5800rpm in 6th for a few minutes and tell me if you run into any lean issues. Looks good btw. Are you happy with the sound?

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Ok I’ve had it out ripping around on dry roads. The flat spot seems to be approaching 7,000 rpm but other than that it’s running very well as far as I can tell (to be confirmed) not that I could feel a 10% change in power, up or down.

2nd into 3rd quick shifting up locked me out a couple more times today, even now that it’s setup as reverse shift pattern. Going to check into possible recall on the shifter which I heard is in effect for the SFV4.

I tried taking the mesh “dB killer” out, started it up and road around the block.
It doesn’t sound as good as with the mesh in place. A Zard rep actually said he prefers the sound with mesh in place, and I do too. There isn’t much of a volume difference but there is a difference in the shape of the sound


now, I’m OCD so I really want a Dyno tune from @vcyclenut just to guarantee it’s running the best it can without having it in the back of my head that it’s running to lean. He’s saying be patient for woolich but here’s the latest update (or lack there of) directly from woolich:

***

“I can say that some work has been done so far, but there are still some ECU issues preventing us from adding full support for it.
We currently do not have a release date for it yet.”


how abt a word from BrennTuning regarding the 2020 V4 Panigale:

“No it only works on the model years 18-19. There were changes in the 2020 year that need working through.
As long as you have the factory widebands installed on the new exhaust we can have them target a specific AFR.”

well... what now? I’d like to have it tuned on the Dyno NOW and then IF Woolich supports the V4 platform, take another trip to the Dyno.
for now, Dyno day scheduled for Thursday just for read outs and to look at the AFR with these slipons/factory tune

Seems at the moment only TuneBoy allows map editing for the V4/S/R

I'd think any tuner that understands the fuel and ignition tables should be able to use it to tune your bike. I could be wrong though, I know next to nothing about tuning.

Thank you, seem to be striking out everywhere: rapidbike, bren, woolich... Spark has a tuning solution ready to go, I think Rexxer is good to go for V4.
Yeah it’s probably going to be Tuneboy for now but I don’t wanna mess with it, let the tuner deal with it if he’s willing/thinks it will make improvement.
Other option is T800 but I’m not trying to deal with all that. Maybe I can hack a DP Akra UpMap yeah right

200.73hp on a hot humid day.
factory air filter, Zard slipon, stock ECU

Maybe another run next week with the sprint filter installed. This bike is a missile but it’s very obvious where it doesn’t pull as hard as it should. Very excited for a @vcyclenut tune!

Not bad. Woulda been great to have a before to compare to though.

Kev, do you have the AFR?

stan1 said:

Kev, do you have the AFR?

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WyldCFH said:

Not bad. Woulda been great to have a before to compare to though.

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Good points, there will be more to come. I’m just excited to pass the 200 number on a hot florida day.

I do not recall having that bad of a flat spot with the stock exhaust. In time it will be corrected

Hot Florida day should not matter as the dyno is temp and Baro compensated. Yes, hitting 200 with stock tuning with only a mild dip at 12K (and the flat spot from 3 to 5k) is pretty amazing. I'm shocked actually. However, what is really needed to know how good that number is, is a graph of a stock V4 on that specific dyno.

ArcticWhite said:

Hot Florida day should not matter as the dyno is temp and Baro compensated. Yes, hitting 200 with stock tuning with only a mild dip at 12K (and the flat spot from 3 to 5k) is pretty amazing. I'm shocked actually. However, what is really needed to know how good that number is, is a graph of a stock V4 on that specific dyno.

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I’m surprised too.
This run was just to confirm that I won’t be harming my bike and It’s looking AOK
you will see all the graphs tm when my tuner makes a post here. It’s very exciting we’re battling it out. Same day/same Dyno. I’m most excited to see how much HP I pickup after installing the Sprint filter

That torque tho!!

Can't tell the answer to this from your reply above Kev, sorry for asking again.

Do you have the dyno run showing the stock AFR curve?

CoolSparky said:

Can't tell the answer to this from your reply above Kev, sorry for asking again.

Do you have the dyno run showing the stock AFR curve?

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Haha sorry. Not this time around. The sniffer tube wouldn’t fit down the Zard exhaust with the mesh at the end of the silencer. Maybe I’ll bug my guy to modify the tube next time so it fits. it’s probably not perfect, bIf it’s gotta be close. I mean... I haven’t even had my first service yet and the bike appears to not be restricted. I did carry out an oil change, that was easy on this bike cause everything is right at the bottom. Plus with the slipon installed, there’s plenty of room to access everything

2 vids. Both need sound systems turned up. The McLaren opener below is amazing (first minute or so)


And below is a good sound clip for those asking how my bike sounds with the Zard exhaust installed. It sounds great! Not too loud but the tone is spot on

@ArcticWhite, my Zard exhaust seems to be a 4-2-4-2 exhaust setup which I believe differs from the factory setup of 4-2-1-2. This made for Very difficult slipping of the aftermarket assembly onto the factory collectors as it was welded together. It does fit perfectly once it’s in place. Does your jester system decouple the front from rear exhausts as in a 4-2 setup or is there a cross pipe in there or is it setup like mine

guys that run arrow or any other brand slipons including Akra and Termi, same question how is it piped




they told me to wash my bike, I told them it’s going to get dirty again. 800 miles on the odometer, it’s running fantastically

should I remove the evap canister? The official DP Akra instructions call for its removal