‘23 V4S stock forged wheels vs BST wheels

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cl955 said:
It's about priorities. Springing the bike for the rider's weight, ability and track is more important than arguing the toss over wheel weight...
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Where did you get that the bike wasn’t sprung correctly?

panibadboy said:
I understand that 100% of people on this forum won't tell a 2 x 300 gram difference between OZ piega/cattiva and BST.
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I thought he was comparing stock forged alu (and cast on his KTM) vs BST. Not against OZ wheels. But I agree. The weight differences between an OZ or BST is negligible
 
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SuperDomestique said:
Do you understand the concept of unsprung weight?
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But you can pretty much make up the difference in the damping. If it's damped right no difference felt. It's the rotational mass thing. Less gyroscopic force. I can argue that one could alter the set-up on the bike (shorten the trail a little) with a forged rim and have it feel exactly the same as the carbon fiber wheel at turn in.
 
panibadboy said:
Such a ....... non-sense.

People buying 4k wheels instead of fixing 100 euros fork springs to their weight
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Actually the suspension on my v4r was fully set up for my weight. Custom valved front and back. Also running non-standard fork springs. The effects of reducing unsprung and rotational weight is very different than the effects of swapping fork/shock springs. I’m not sure why you claim what I said is f-ing nonsense. Sounds like you either don’t understand or are, for some reason, trying to dissuade others from buying lightweight wheels.
 
OpenFlash Performance said:
Actually the suspension on my v4r was fully set up for my weight. Custom valved front and back. Also running non-standard fork springs. The effects of reducing unsprung and rotational weight is very different than the effects of swapping fork/shock springs. I’m not sure why you claim what I said is f-ing nonsense. Sounds like you either don’t understand or are, for some reason, trying to dissuade others from buying lightweight wheels.
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The weight of the front wheel you feel in the bars is directly related to trail. When the bike is set up properly a couple of lbs in the wheels wouldn't mean much. The last bike I raced was a 916 (yes i'm fossilesque). The stock front wheel on that bike with a slick of the time weighted about 12,000 lbs. The bike has 90 mm of trail. Only way to get it to turn in the chicanes. You could tune the chassis for the average guy and he'd go just as fast with the forged wheels. Your bike doesn't count cause it's utterly sorted. Of course in the end they'll work better. But $4K worth of improvement?
 
baggerman said:
The weight of the front wheel you feel in the bars is directly related to trail. When the bike is set up properly a couple of lbs in the wheels wouldn't mean much. The last bike I raced was a 916 (yes i'm fossilesque). The stock front wheel on that bike with a slick of the time weighted about 12,000 lbs. The bike has 90 mm of trail. Only way to get it to turn in the chicanes. You could tune the chassis for the average guy and he'd go just as fast with the forged wheels. Your bike doesn't count cause it's utterly sorted. Of course in the end they'll work better. But $4K worth of improvement?
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It’s not 4k worth of improvement if like me you need a 2nd set of wheels anyway, it’s the difference in price say between the Cattiva’s and the BST’s, which is only a few hundred bucks. Or about $1500 bucks between the Marchenesi and the BST.
 
bp_SFV4 said:
I agree proper setup is key but he never said anything against it.
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I think some people might only read what they want to read at times. It does make it difficult to have a constructive discussion though.

baggerman said:
The weight of the front wheel you feel in the bars is directly related to trail. When the bike is set up properly a couple of lbs in the wheels wouldn't mean much. The last bike I raced was a 916 (yes i'm fossilesque). The stock front wheel on that bike with a slick of the time weighted about 12,000 lbs. The bike has 90 mm of trail. Only way to get it to turn in the chicanes. You could tune the chassis for the average guy and he'd go just as fast with the forged wheels. Your bike doesn't count cause it's utterly sorted. Of course in the end they'll work better. But $4K worth of improvement?
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it really makes no sense arguing the value proposition since that will vary from person to person. Also we are buying $30-50k road bikes which 99% of the population work think is silly and most definitely not worth it. So I think it’s equally ill-conceived to suggest that $4k CF rims are a waste of money. Maybe to some. But for others, they are most definitely worth it.

And no where am I suggesting that you should go with CF wheels before a proper set-up. Set up always comes first. And then tweak the set up, if necessary, as you make make other changes or change how/where the bike is ridden. I think that is reasonable, no?

Lastly, please read what im actually saying before telling me im wrong again 😂
 
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andyb said:
what does the internet say?:rolleyes:
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Checked the internet

IMG_0530.jpeg
 

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