‘23 V4S stock forged wheels vs BST wheels

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SuperDomestique said:
Not sure why you’d want to run anything more race-y than an SC3 for trackday riding… SC1/2 are maybe stickier but they don’t last as long and have narrower temps.
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Sorry mate, this is dumbest advice ever, also you didn't say front or rear.

If it's hot outside running rear SC3 at .... pace will destroy it quicker than SC1.

Fine to use SC3 on a front, but rear requires more thought, especially if you use Pirellis.

Bridgestones is another story, soft rear for anything below 20C, hard rear above. (forget 3lc for now).
 
I went with OZ due to a nasty front rim "explosion" that my friend had at Mugello on his HP4 Race.
Comments to the tires, I have been running Pirelli SC3 front and SC1 rear with good result. That is a proven concept.
 
OK so you lose 3 lbs of rotational weight, 2 from the front. If any device (including you) is throttling the motor during acceleration to say 80 mph then from an acceleration standpoint, no gain. After 80 or so the power is being used to overcome drag. The 2 lbs off the front helps during braking but if you're limiting braking force say to stop from lofting the rear then no gain. Less unsprung weight on the fork, with my current forged front rim, tire, rotors about 8%. Helps but you can tune out the difference with the damping (would primarily be better on choppy pavement). So a little gain. The single greatest advantage is turn in at speed due to the 8% lost in rotational weight. I guess one can argue that you can shorten the trail a little or put on a pointier tire and get the same effect. If you put one in a pot hole it may break (can't imagine what that woud be like ouch). A forged wheel will bend and lose air. They don't seem to be as consistent in retaining tire heat. You can destroy one if you turn the tire heaters up too much. Spooky you can leave that pair in your office.
 
panibadboy said:
Sorry mate, this is dumbest advice ever, also you didn't say front or rear.

If it's hot outside running rear SC3 at .... pace will destroy it quicker than SC1.

Fine to use SC3 on a front, but rear requires more thought, especially if you use Pirellis.

Bridgestones is another story, soft rear for anything below 20C, hard rear above. (forget 3lc for now).
Click to expand...

Nah dog. Notice I said TRACK day. Not race. SC3 all the way for me. No need for warmers and has more durability as long as you ride it appropriately. Tires have a performance limit relative to temps and grip, everyone knows this. If you ride an SC3 like a loon in the middle of summer, yeah it’s not going to fair well. But if you back off a little you’ll be able to ride multiple days on them and still have fun. Same can be said with SP tires. Once they go greasy, let them cool down a couple laps. Consistent smooth laps with the right TC settings and you can get 3 days of trackday riding plus another 2k mi on the road. You also don’t have to worry so much about tire pressures either. They just work.

Whereas with an SC1/2 you’ll burn through them in a day or 2 (3 if you you want to push your luck) depending on pace. And you have to match the tire to ambient/asphalt temps and grip levels, etc. Too much of a faff for a track day. Doing track days on SC1/2 is a waste of money and is just for willy waving.

1703366782354.png


https://www.pirelli.com/global/en-w...he-right-diablo-supercorsa-sc-compound-53956/
 
So whats the verdict?

Whats the lightest weight best quality forged wheels out there…which specific make and model, track only, does not have to be DOT certified.
 
SBK-SP said:
I’ve bought BST carbon wheels for 4 of my bikes, the other has non-DOT OZ forged race wheels because BST are not available. Unless you’re a ham-fisted goon you WILL notice the difference, especially in turning, when changing from forged marchesini to BST carbon. Thyssenkrupp are hideous. Are they “worth the money”? Only you can make that call. I tell people NOT to try carbon wheels unless they’re ready to swap all their bikes to carbon. After riding on carbon for a while and switching back to forged, it will feel like a tank.
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Do you have a link to the non-DOT OZ racing wheels?
 
Steven31371 said:
I like those but aren’t the M10RS Corse the lighter track spec versions?

Deciding between those and the OZ Cativa non-DOT track only wheels.
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Mag is a pain in the ass. Requires you to be really careful with tire changes and any scratch that exposes bare magnesium is a source of corrosion. For a track day wheel, it’s not as durable as the Kompe which is alu. Plus the titanium color is baller. Corse is a race wheel
 
SuperDomestique said:
Mag is a pain in the ass. Requires you to be really careful with tire changes and any scratch that exposes bare magnesium is a source of corrosion. For a track day wheel, it’s not as durable as the Kompe which is alu. Plus the titanium color is baller. Corse is a race wheel
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when wouldn't you be careful when changing tyres?
 
panibadboy said:
When is the last time you changed tires at the track yourself?
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why would you when there is a guy with all the professional gear there to do it for peanuts?

that said I will get my guy at work to remove the old tyre(Porsche equipped workshop) and as the Superbike SC 1,2,3 are so soft to fit I fit them myself (top tip, hairspray!) as you can take more time to get the balance correct....

I also have two sets of M10RS mag wheels so these will generally last me three days between them Its all about the timing. I used to run the BST carbon wheels but couldn't get my head around heating something that's glued together up to 80+ degrees then sitting on it at up to 180mph... I know the tyre guy well but still stood over him when he changed tyres on these. My mate has them now and couldn't give a flying fook about my worries...up to now he has been ok....

Oh... and your point, see below ;)😂
 
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