How To: Charcoal Canister Removal

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Can someone please report the last pic of the finished job? It's no longer appearing in the thread. Took the canister off today, and can't help but going WTF at the canister drain tube going nowhere...it exits where my finger is @ bottom left - into the bodywork! Also please ignore the duct tape marking the vacuum hose until it is properly plugged.

WP_20140422_002.jpg
 
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outhouse said:
You need to do something, or gas could dump down on the hot exhaust.


I installed a 1/4" T unto the other line coming from the tank and the install is very clean that way with less hoses.
Click to expand...

So I understand you correctly, you're making a cut in the other line coming from the tank just below the upper radiator and installing the T there, with the leftover fuel line from the charcoal canister feeding into it? Makes sense following the lines. Also uses the least additional tubing.
 
BAIBAICOP said:
So I understand you correctly, you're making a cut in the other line coming from the tank just below the upper radiator and installing the T there, with the leftover fuel line from the charcoal canister feeding into it? Makes sense following the lines. Also uses the least additional tubing.
Click to expand...

No.

You cut the long line by the radiator and install the T there. That is the long line that goes to the drain in the bottom of the fairing.


You simply take the second line from the tank to the canister and put that on the T installed on the long line, instead of the canister.



Ditch the bottom drain line.
 
outhouse said:
No.

You cut the long line by the radiator and install the T there. That is the long line that goes to the drain in the bottom of the fairing.


You simply take the second line from the tank to the canister and put that on the T installed on the long line, instead of the canister.
Click to expand...
We're definitely speaking of the same line, you just described it more effectively. Thank you.


outhouse said:
Ditch the bottom drain line.
Click to expand...
Copy that.
 
outhouse said:
Sweet.

If you look at the OPs first pic.

I put the T right about where the rubber tie holds the two hoses together by the radiator.
Click to expand...

Thanks. Mine is not tied like that but it is obvious which line leads to the radiator and which leads to the tank :)
 
Off current topic but I wanted to give my update. I had one of the first '12 deliveries, hard starting, and starter replaced due to the excessive cranking. Since removing the canister I have not had any starting issues. Been riding at the Gap all week and the bike would normally embarrass the .... out of me. It's been a great week of normalcy. Wish I had listened earlier.
 
Here's a pic of the finished job to replace the one that's aged-out on the OP. I tend to over-do it on zipties, but there's no tubing touching metal anywhere, and only the original drains are in use. The Y connector is up near the lower radiator hose clamp. The vacuum line is plugged with a M4 bolt I torqued in with a socket wrench. Ain't goin' nowhere. No hose pinching going on either.

WP_20140423_002.jpg


Consistently fires up like a champ now! Especially when over 180F which was a growing problem with the charcoal canister on. Quite a bit of gas in the charcoal canister I might add, despite being super-careful to never overfill.
 
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Dennis, whatever office you're running for, you have my vote. TY so much for everything.
 
The ducati race pan comes with a plug for the motor blocks

I will get the sizing and post one day, this eliminates the 2 hoses comming off the #1&2 cylinder.

Also I highly recommend purchasing smog block of plates and the quick disconnect and doing all the same day, may be even the MWR air filter...

The smog blate requires plugging also and can be 100% removed if done correctly.

I hate shoving screws in holes and kinking lines

2 bolts for the canister
2 bolts for smog
Y line

And remove 3lbs of hose and canisters

Bike runs like it should
 
2 bolts. 6m x8
Y connector 4m. Or 3/16 or 1/4 inch

3/16 is a little loose (?)
1/4 is tight

Also 3 crimp hose clamp stainless steel

The y connector I found for as much as 25$ or 6$ for brass
 
Yes very helpful stuff, it made the canister removal a real breeze, thanks for this Dennis
 
TransNone13 said:
Nice, I actually Y'd that vent hose with the hose mounted to the vent shroud so they could share the hole. (Not the coolant one.)
Click to expand...

Nice suggestion. I did the same. I don't like the idea of pinching off a tanks vacuum hose as I worry about it causing the tank to implode. This used to happen on older Ducatis if you closed off the vacuum hose or installed the one way valve in the vacuum hose the wrong way around.

It may be the Panigale has another vent that the tank can draw air in from (possibly even the overflow hose) so this may not be an issue, but it was easy enough to stick a Y or T connector in and connect both hoses to the same 'drain' hose.
 
Why is there a vacuum line going into the charcoal canister? What is the purpose of that line? I don't understand why after removing the canister, we need to out a screw or stop in it. Was something (e.g., air/vapor) supposed to go in or out through the pipe. How is plugging up that line supposed to be good?

Letting the other "overflow" tube run down to the bottom of the pipe to drain excessive fuel, I get that. I just don't understand the concept of the vacuum line.
 

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