IRC blip shifter

Finally got around to putting the H&M blip shifter on….two thumbs up.

I almost ordered the IRC blip shifter for ..... and giggles just to try it head to head against the H&M.

They each have attractive features….the IRC adapts the kill times and is supposed to make smoother shifts but does not offer shift sensitivity adjustment like the H&M.

Glad I didn’t get around to ordering the IRC because FOR ME, the H&M is working blissfully.

I set the sensitivity to 25% and it shifts like butter with just a decent touch of the lever how I like.

With the Cordona I had to hammer the lever, with the H&M on this setting I can just tap it up and dow. No false neutrals, no missed shifts in a about an hour of riding with lots of gear changes…no trickiness about RPM’s either. The Cordona really only liked to upshift easily at heavy to full throttle and you need full throttle release for easy downshifts.

So far the H&M shifts smoothly and easily up AND down at all RPM’s and throttle positions.

KarlKani said:

Ahhhh IRC doesnt make a QS for v4

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They do ;-)

Steven31371 said:

Finally got around to putting the H&M blip shifter on….two thumbs up.

I almost ordered the IRC blip shifter for ..... and giggles just to try it head to head against the H&M.

They each have attractive features….the IRC adapts the kill times and is supposed to make smoother shifts but does not offer shift sensitivity adjustment like the H&M.

Glad I didn’t get around to ordering the IRC because FOR ME, the H&M is working blissfully.

I set the sensitivity to 25% and it shifts like butter with just a decent touch of the lever how I like.

With the Cordona I had to hammer the lever, with the H&M on this setting I can just tap it up and dow. No false neutrals, no missed shifts in a about an hour of riding with lots of gear changes…no trickiness about RPM’s either. The Cordona really only liked to upshift easily at heavy to full throttle and you need full throttle release for easy downshifts.

So far the H&M shifts smoothly and easily up AND down at all RPM’s and throttle positions.

Click to expand...

Did you just get the OEM replacement for the V4? If so how do you adjust the sensitivity? is there an LED thingy like the HM Plus?

^^^ Same question.

Its not that I dislike the Cordona, its just that its not for me. For a track only bike I think it would be the hot ticket. If you are shifting above 12k the Cordona is amazing.

endodoc said:

Did you just get the OEM replacement for the V4? If so how do you adjust the sensitivity? is there an LED thingy like the HM Plus?

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Fairly easy to adjust, the only tricky part is that it’s European so it talks about Compression and Extension or push and pull instead of up and down when selecting GP shift version standard, their terminology is counter intuitive…for GP shift pattern you want the screen displaying ‘C’.

The process for programming it is simple.

Press the gear lever abs hold it down while turning on the bike, there is a countdown 5 to 0 on the screen, you release the shift lever as it hits zero

This puts it in settings mode…there will be a flashing C…click the shifter up or down once to switch between the C for GP shifting or E for standard shifting….then hold the shift lever down for a 3 second count and it switches to the sensitivity settings.

The screen will display a %….the default is 50%…click down and it increases sensitivity in 5% increments, press up on the shift lever and it increases the force necessary to shift in 5% increments.

Mine is set to 25% abs is perfect for how I like to shift….i.e. it’s an actual BLIP shifter not a HAMMER DOWN AND UP shifter lol


Yes I got their standard OEM replacement unit.


Their GP model isn’t out yet, but this one is so good I can’t see changing it.

@Steven31371

Did you have the dealer mess with the throttle position sensor or reset same during your issues with the stock QS?

I'm having intermittent but pretty regular failed down shifts. Up shifts work perfectly. I swapped the Cordona for the OEM and the problem persists, so its nothing with the actual QS as far as I can tell.

bp_SFV4 said:

@Steven31371

Did you have the dealer mess with the throttle position sensor or reset same during your issues with the stock QS?

I'm having intermittent but pretty regular failed down shifts. Up shifts work perfectly. I swapped the Cordona for the OEM and the problem persists, so its nothing with the actual QS as far as I can tell.

Click to expand...

I had the exact same problem with my OEM shifter briefly….we found it it was caused by the little red throttle spacers everybody gets, they messed with the throttle position sensor just enough to mess up the QS.

My problem with the Cordona was unrelated, and more user caused….the Cordona is only really happy when shifting at high RPM’s abs with a fairly hard/assertive shifting motion, and it doesn’t work well at all throttle positions and RPM for me. Mostly I just don’t like BANGING the gears into place, so I would miss shifts.

The H&M allows to to custom set the shifter sensitivity so I can match the shift pressure required to how I like to shift, it’s shifter ergonomics really, but the better sensitivity ergonomics is making for more consistent reliable shifting for me at all RPM abs throttle positions.

Good feedback on the HM vs Cordona.

The cordona has been good to me even for low rpm shifts, but would be nice to have one to tinker with and get it dialed in perfectly to preference.

Steve, after all these mods you better lay down some solid lap times or we are gonna give you a lot of .... next summer lol

I said this before and I'll say it again. It's easy to be wowed by the level of adjustability in an aftermarket blipper but its actually harder than it looks. Adjusting kill times for various rpm bands, lever preload etc. requires a very high level of understanding of the engineering of the motor and gearbox itself. Even if shifts 'feel' right to you, you could be putting unwanted stress on gearbox and motor over time even if the kill times are off by just a few miliseconds. No offense to Steve, but not sure I would trust him (or me included) to get that right.

Meaning, I vote to buy a quickshifter from a reputable company that has already figured this out and is not delegating the engineering to me. If I'm paying $700 or more for a quick shifter, they should be figuring this .... out for my specific bike and it should be plug and play. If that's not the case, then I'll wait to buy a different unit where they have invested the engineering time specifically for the V4.

brad8266 said:

Good feedback on the HM vs Cordona.

The cordona has been good to me even for low rpm shifts, but would be nice to have one to tinker with and get it dialed in perfectly to preference.

Steve, after all these mods you better lay down some solid lap times or we are gonna give you a lot of .... next summer lol

Click to expand...

Hahaha….do I get an age handicap?

TomFoolery said:

I said this before and I'll say it again. It's easy to be wowed by the level of adjustability in an aftermarket blipper but its actually harder than it looks. Adjusting kill times for various rpm bands, lever preload etc. requires a very high level of understanding of the engineering of the motor and gearbox itself. Even if shifts 'feel' right to you, you could be putting unwanted stress on gearbox and motor over time even if the kill times are off by just a few miliseconds. No offense to Steve, but not sure I would trust him (or me included) to get that right.

Meaning, I vote to buy a quickshifter from a reputable company that has already figured this out and is not delegating the engineering to me. If I'm paying $700 or more for a quick shifter, they should be figuring this .... out for my specific bike and it should be plug and play. If that's not the case, then I'll wait to buy a different unit where they have invested the engineering time specifically for the V4.

Click to expand...

This particular H&M shifter does not allow you to adjust kill times etc, the ECU still does that….this one just adjusts the pressure that’s required to initiate the shift, that’s useful because a lot of the false neutrals that people get is rider induced because you aren’t hammering the race spec quickshifter hard enough…but that’s subjective, so you can adjust to your riding style without affecting kill times etc.


As a side note, the new generation of quickshifters that are coming out that DO adjust kill times etc do not ask the user to do so like the old models, instead they use machine learning and integration with your onboard sensors to adjust kill times for you, and they do it more smoothly and faster than the stock ECU does it…and it’s learning AI so it improves much like your ECU learns and adjusts air/fuel ratios on the fly.

The quickshifters the ask the user to manually set each field are outdated technology now.

Steven31371 said:

I had the exact same problem with my OEM shifter briefly….we found it it was caused by the little red throttle spacers everybody gets, they messed with the throttle position sensor just enough to mess up the QS.

My problem with the Cordona was unrelated, and more user caused….the Cordona is only really happy when shifting at high RPM’s abs with a fairly hard/assertive shifting motion, and it doesn’t work well at all throttle positions and RPM for me. Mostly I just don’t like BANGING the gears into place, so I would miss shifts.

The H&M allows to to custom set the shifter sensitivity so I can match the shift pressure required to how I like to shift, it’s shifter ergonomics really, but the better sensitivity ergonomics is making for more consistent reliable shifting for me at all RPM abs throttle positions.

Click to expand...

I tried ditching the spacers, unplugging the clutch micro switch and swapping to the Cordona and back to OEM. It’s only on downshifts and not 100% of the time. Since it’s only down it makes me think it’s a throttle position issue. I just wonder if that’s something the dealer messed with when I had it in for service since I had mentioned previous problems with the QS.

I would rather the throttle not have any slop but I can certainly adjust to it the way it is.

Steven31371 said:

This particular H&M shifter does not allow you to adjust kill times etc, the ECU still does that….this one just adjusts the pressure that’s required to initiate the shift, that’s useful because a lot of the false neutrals that people get is rider induced because you aren’t hammering the race spec quickshifter hard enough…but that’s subjective, so you can adjust to your riding style without affecting kill times etc.


As a side note, the new generation of quickshifters that are coming out that DO adjust kill times etc do not ask the user to do so like the old models, instead they use machine learning and integration with your onboard sensors to adjust kill times for you, and they do it more smoothly and faster than the stock ECU does it…and it’s learning AI so it improves much like your ECU learns and adjusts air/fuel ratios on the fly.

The quickshifters the ask the user to manually set each field are outdated technology now.

Click to expand...

OK I'm listening. Is this what you bought?

Ducati OEM Replacement Blipper Shifter | HM Quickshifter

did you buy direct from them or is there a US reseller?

TomFoolery said:

OK I'm listening. Is this what you bought?

Ducati OEM Replacement Blipper Shifter | HM Quickshifter

did you buy direct from them or is there a US reseller?

Click to expand...

Talk to @cycler he’s a dealer and offers very competitive pricing.

TomFoolery said:

OK I'm listening. Is this what you bought?

Ducati OEM Replacement Blipper Shifter | HM Quickshifter

did you buy direct from them or is there a US reseller?

Click to expand...

I got mine from Spears Racing in Northern California….I think Cycler here at the forum can get them too

bp_SFV4 said:

I tried ditching the spacers, unplugging the clutch micro switch and swapping to the Cordona and back to OEM. It’s only on downshifts and not 100% of the time. Since it’s only down it makes me think it’s a throttle position issue. I just wonder if that’s something the dealer messed with when I had it in for service since I had mentioned previous problems with the QS.

I would rather the throttle not have any slop but I can certainly adjust to it the way it is.

Click to expand...

Do you have after market rearsets? The arm that connects to the gear selector shaft, has to be at 90⁰ to the QS rod. If it's out, it will shift easily one way, and be very difficult the other way. Sometimes you need to buy and/or modify new rods to get the setup perfect.

Steven31371 said:

Hahaha….do I get an age handicap?

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lol 3 seconds

RickD996 said:

Do you have after market rearsets? The arm that connects to the gear selector shaft, has to be at 90⁰ to the QS rod. If it's out, it will shift easily one way, and be very difficult the other way. Sometimes you need to buy and/or modify new rods to get the setup perfect.

Click to expand...

No, OEM.

bp_SFV4 said:

No, OEM.

Click to expand...

Even with OEM, everything still needs to be carefully lined up. Do you have pics?

RickD996 said:

Do you have after market rearsets? The arm that connects to the gear selector shaft, has to be at 90⁰ to the QS rod. If it's out, it will shift easily one way, and be very difficult the other way. Sometimes you need to buy and/or modify new rods to get the setup perfect.

Click to expand...

Yeah mine is slightly off, the QS rod is not straight from the gear select shaft to where it mounts on the rear set. It has the telescoping pivot things on each end of the QS rod to compensate for it but would work a little better maybe if I put a spacer washer on the rear set rod mount point to make it line up perfectly straight. I haven’t noticed any difficulty shifting except maybe the 2-1 down shift while I’m on the track. I really need to lower the gearing to be at a better rpm coming through tight turns in second as opposed to first.