IRC blip shifter

Ok calm down man. Firs I wasn’t addressing your problem, specifically I was just making a comment base on my experience with my gearbox in general. . Sorry you’re having issues, I’m sure it’s electronic related. My biz partner has a bone stock 1299 and a 2019 M10 Yamaha with the a Yamaha QS. That thing shifts way smoother than his 1299. My old Honda 1000rr with the power commander shifted way smoother than my 1299, stock trans and TL. My 1299 with the Nova and this QS shifts like some sort of F1 push button gizmo and is a different bike than my stock 99. I can’t even feel it .... and it’s consistent everywhere. If the gearbox is good and the QS doesn’t make a difference, temporarily swap the ECU and see what happens.

Thanks for your input, @endodoc .

My HealTech QS on my XDiavel is butter smooth at WOT in the very upper RPM range but is clunky in the medium throttle or mid to lower RPM range. I can adjust for cutoff time per RPM, cutoff duration, pulses, first and last RPM (great for deactivating the QS at lower RPM if you don't want that), sensor threshold, delay between signal and cutoff, noise filtering (prevents QS due to vibrations - great for 1262cc V-twin), and I can use adaptive mode where I let the computer figure it out. Even with all of that, I struggled to get a great QS outside of the top RPM/WOT. Adaptive mode did not work as well as I would have liked and manually tuning was better for me and my XD. But when it does work, it is better than the OEM QS on the V2. I am sure having a strain gauge instead of a mechanical switch makes a difference. I do wonder how much the gearbox plays into the equation even if it is not the overall cause.

I found it interesting that when my V2 QS refuses to downshift, it does so over and over again until you come to a stop and then try it again after getting going again. I also found it interesting that, as others said, if you load the shifter and blip the throttle then the QS starts working again. For me, it not only fixes the issue for that downshift, but it continues to work with the rest of the downshifts if you don't start up shifting. Once you up shift, all bets are off and it may or may not work. Strange pattern.

My XDiavel Healtech QS options (just for anyone interested):







-0260

Great post man. I always liked that setup just haven’t tried it

endodoc said:

Ok calm down man. Firs I wasn’t addressing your problem, specifically I was just making a comment base on my experience with my gearbox in general. . Sorry you’re having issues, I’m sure it’s electronic related. My biz partner has a bone stock 1299 and a 2019 M10 Yamaha with the a Yamaha QS. That thing shifts way smoother than his 1299. My old Honda 1000rr with the power commander shifted way smoother than my 1299, stock trans and TL. My 1299 with the Nova and this QS shifts like some sort of F1 push button gizmo and is a different bike than my stock 99. I can’t even feel it .... and it’s consistent everywhere. If the gearbox is good and the QS doesn’t make a difference, temporarily swap the ECU and see what happens.

Click to expand...

My bad, I was into the Bourbon.

LOL

The capital NOT was a bit douchey in hindsight. I posted something on reddit about it and some dude's reply was so far off from reasonable troubleshooting it was scary. In the parlance of our time I was a bit "triggered."

But, I think I'm getting somewhere though. The OBDStar device I got has the exact same functionality test as the Ducati DDS the dealers use. All of the text is the same but the menu layout is different which makes me think all of that diagnostic stuff is baked in the ECU/BBS etc and the device just reads what's on the CANBus.

All that to say I failed the test for the DQS. The test reads the DQS voltage at rest, when you're holding an upshift and when holding a downshift. I don't know what the expected values are though. My battery voltage may have been low going into the test. I got the Akra system on and the Ducati/Rizoma rearsets. I was hoping to get it rolling this weekend but my fork project got another setback. I didn't want to start it with the forks off of the bike, but I suppose it won't hurt. I'll get the rear tire on at least and get that on the ground and leave the front on the head stand. I need to let it come up to temp since I got the new exhaust on which will proably get a bit of a charge into the battery.

I'm going to swap in my Cordona tomorrow and see how it does if everything else goes well.

bp_SFV4 said:

The capital NOT was a bit douchey in hindsight. I posted something on reddit about it and some dude's reply was so far off from reasonable troubleshooting it was scary. In the parlance of our time I was a bit "triggered."

But, I think I'm getting somewhere though. The OBDStar device I got has the exact same functionality test as the Ducati DDS the dealers use. All of the text is the same but the menu layout is different which makes me think all of that diagnostic stuff is baked in the ECU/BBS etc and the device just reads what's on the CANBus.

All that to say I failed the test for the DQS. The test reads the DQS voltage at rest, when you're holding an upshift and when holding a downshift. I don't know what the expected values are though. My battery voltage may have been low going into the test. I got the Akra system on and the Ducati/Rizoma rearsets. I was hoping to get it rolling this weekend but my fork project got another setback. I didn't want to start it with the forks off of the bike, but I suppose it won't hurt. I'll get the rear tire on at least and get that on the ground and leave the front on the head stand. I need to let it come up to temp since I got the new exhaust on which will proably get a bit of a charge into the battery.

I'm going to swap in my Cordona tomorrow and see how it does if everything else goes well.

Click to expand...

Ducati DDS shows nominal values and reads BBS.


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