IRC blip shifter

RickD996 said:

Do you have after market rearsets? The arm that connects to the gear selector shaft, has to be at 90⁰ to the QS rod. If it's out, it will shift easily one way, and be very difficult the other way. Sometimes you need to buy and/or modify new rods to get the setup perfect.

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Yeah mine is slightly off, the QS rod is not straight from the gear select shaft to where it mounts on the rear set. It has the telescoping pivot things on each end of the QS rod to compensate for it but would work a little better maybe if I put a spacer washer on the rear set rod mount point to make it line up perfectly straight. I haven’t noticed any difficulty shifting except maybe the 2-1 down shift while I’m on the track. I really need to lower the gearing to be at a better rpm coming through tight turns in second as opposed to first.

brad8266 said:

Yeah mine is slightly off, the QS rod is not straight from the gear select shaft to where it mounts on the rear set. It has the telescoping pivot things on each end of the QS rod to compensate for it but would work a little better maybe if I put a spacer washer on the rear set rod mount point to make it line up perfectly straight. I haven’t noticed any difficulty shifting except maybe the 2-1 down shift while I’m on the track. I really need to lower the gearing to be at a better rpm coming through tight turns in second as opposed to first.

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What track are you needing to be in 1st gear for a corner?

TomFoolery said:

What track are you needing to be in 1st gear for a corner?

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Not that uncommon. COTA, for example, has 3 or 4 corners you might take in first (gearing and personal preference dependent).

TomFoolery said:

What track are you needing to be in 1st gear for a corner?

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NC Bike, VIR, CMP to name a few. Don’t really “need” to be in first but in second I’m in a .... spot in the power band for 2nd with stock gearing. Going through hairpins at 50-60mph sucks in second with stock gearing because you don’t have all the power to drive out. Kick it up another 2k or so and I’m probably in a good place.

What tracks are you riding where you don’t have to slow down that much? I need to come ride those lol.

craig bush said:

Not that uncommon. COTA, for example, has 3 or 4 corners you might take in first (gearing and personal preference dependent).

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Like which ones in COTA specifically? 1, 11 or 12? 1st is too low even for those corners unless you went to much taller than stock gearing.

brad8266 said:

NC Bike, VIR, CMP to name a few. Don’t really “need” to be in first but in second I’m in a .... spot in the power band for 2nd with stock gearing. Going through hairpins at 50-60mph sucks in second with stock gearing because you don’t have all the power to drive out. Kick it up another 2k or so and I’m probably in a good place.

What tracks are you riding where you don’t have to slow down that much? I need to come ride those lol.

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Doing 60mph in first gear, the drive lash must be excessive. Eric Wood always said (when we raced CCS up in Loudon) it's easier to change direction when a bike is spinning at lower rpm/higher gear than higher rpm/lower gear - centrifugal forces etc. It's a V4, not an inline 4 so there's torque all over the place. Use it man. That's the whole advantage of a V4.

OK I will stop being a keyboard crew chief now haha

TomFoolery said:

Doing 60mph in first gear, the drive lash must be excessive. Eric Wood always said (when we raced CCS up in Loudon) it's easier to change direction when a bike is spinning at lower rpm/higher gear than higher rpm/lower gear - centrifugal forces etc. It's a V4, not an inline 4 so there's torque all over the place. Use it man. That's the whole advantage of a V4.

OK I will stop being a keyboard crew chief now haha

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it is excessive, which is why I rarely go to first and instead I putt out in second in a .... power spot, which is literally costing me lap times, other bikes can out drive me because they are in a better spot for power than me, happens all the time. Not ideal, hence my need to change gearing to bring the Rpm’s up at lower speed in second. Turning this bike is no issue anyway, I have it dialed in pretty well, I just need more drive out power in slower turns, and going to first sucks because it upsets the chassis more.

TomFoolery said:

Like which ones in COTA specifically? 1, 11 or 12? 1st is too low even for those corners unless you went to much taller than stock gearing.

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Yes - 11, 12, and 15. Some folks are doing 1 and 8 also.

I’m not intending to internet crew chief either .

we are all internet crew chiefs and/or GP riders on here, living out our dreams vicariously haha.

brad8266 said:

we are all internet crew chiefs and/or GP riders on here, living out our dreams vicariously haha.

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Ha, yep. I’m expecting a call from Bologna any day now.

RickD996 said:

Even with OEM, everything still needs to be carefully lined up. Do you have pics?

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I think its more of an electrical issue than linkage. When it fails to downshift, I can apply slight pressure to the shifter and manually blip it and it goes right into gear.

I took it to the dealer and they were able to replicate the issue, which is good. They reset all the trims/learned nonsense and the tech took it for a ride and said it shifted fine.

Of course on the way home it did it again on the highway. It could be some bias on my part but it seems to be getting more and more regular.

Anyone know anyone that has the domino QS for the V4s?

Parts :: Ducati :: V4 :: Electrical :: Domino Ducati V4 V4S V4R Streetfighter V4 Racing Quick Shifter / Blipper - HSBK Racing | Race Team | Training Facility | Exotic Parts | Italian Bikes

No but it’s a switch type and not a strain gauge.


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Did you figure out the downshifting issue? Did I read that you also had the issue with the Cordona QS? My V2 has the same downshifting issue with OEM, but I am looking to swap to the Cordona. I also can blip with pressure on the shifter to fix the issue when it happens.

If you're asking me, no. Riding here has been postponed by cold weather.

I have since installed a full Akrapovic system and Ducati Rizoma rearsets. When I get my fork springs installed, probably this week, the bike will be ready to start.

But, I have the OBDStar iScan device on the way, probably next Monday, to I can reset all of the adaptives and get a better idea of what's going on.

Before I get too into it, I may try and have my dealer put the Ducati/Akra map on it on the off chance that some update they did at the service had a conflict with the Termi map on the bike. I still have to work that out. I didn't have a problem until the dealer did the service. I'm guessing a software update or the like introduced a conflict that causes the ECU to ignore the signal from the QS. I don't know if this is related to the Termi up-map I installed prior to the service.

The ECU adapts to the QS, or maybe to how you use it typically. When installing the Cordona, I think its worth it to reset those adaptive parameters and do a few trail runs, accepting that there may be some less than favorable ...... I have the OEM shifter in now but will reinstall the Cordona when I can verify that the downshift works as it should.

Thanks for the reply. I may reset my TPS and remove my throttle spacers to see if that resolves my issue before purchasing the Cordona. I love the Healtech QS on my XDiavel and want that same sensitivity instead of the heavy movement needed for downshifts with the OEM. I don't think HM makes a QS for the V2, so I guess I'll try the Cordona. I'll be interested to see how you make out with your tests.

By the way, my throttle spacers never affected the QS downshifts for me. My issues started when I reverse shifted the V2 with OEM rear sets. I have o fix it since standard shifting SUCKS. We have snow on the ground, so no testing for a month or two (lots of sand).

I've tried spacers in and out to no avail. I know some dudes fight against them but I can adapt to them being there or not; I just prefer no slop.

I have no clear explanation on what adaptive TPS and QS values do. Which is half of the reason I ordered the OBDStar device. I hopefully can see if the ECU is getting a signal from the QS when I use it. If the ECU receives the signal but doesn't blip, then some other sensor is conflicting with that signal.

I lost faith in my dealer after my last service so I plan on divorcing myself as much as I can. There's no way I'd pay them for a Desmo service after over filling the oil by a little under a quart on a glorified oil change service.

I will say that the ECU will ignore the blip signal from the QS if there is any open signal from the TPS. If you can see TPS sensor signals it may get you a bit further down the road.

bp_SFV4 said:

I've tried spacers in and out to no avail. I know some dudes fight against them but I can adapt to them being there or not; I just prefer no slop.

I have no clear explanation on what adaptive TPS and QS values do. Which is half of the reason I ordered the OBDStar device. I hopefully can see if the ECU is getting a signal from the QS when I use it. If the ECU receives the signal but doesn't blip, then some other sensor is conflicting with that signal.

I lost faith in my dealer after my last service so I plan on divorcing myself as much as I can. There's no way I'd pay them for a Desmo service after over filling the oil by a little under a quart on a glorified oil change service.

I will say that the ECU will ignore the blip signal from the QS if there is any open signal from the TPS. If you can see TPS sensor signals it may get you a bit further down the road.

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I am hopeful your OBDStar will help identify the issue many of us are having. I do know that I have QS downshifted a few times while the throttle was still half-open by accident (distracted riding trying to converse with the wife over headsets). Many times the bike would not downshift, but sometimes it did (with a bit of a clunk). It really seems like the QS will not work for downshifts if there is forward torque applied to the gears, but will still work if there is negative torque (engine braking) happening even if the throttle is open slightly. I am not 100% sure as I don't want to try and replicate that since it feels nasty and is probably really bad on the gears, lol. My point is that if it can downshift with slight throttle sometimes, then I would think it could downshift with no throttle but having throttle spacers. Crazy stuff, but I assume there must be some other signals causing the QS not to work and I hope you find it.

-0260

Downshifts on positive torque do work. They’re not as smooth but they do work, normally.


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Guys one thing I noticed putting together this last motor was the gearbox internals are quite a bit different in the Corse motors. The gears are cut differently, the drum is different and the selector forks are different. All the pieces are micro polished and the gearbox is a lot smoother than the stock gearbox. I had a new Nova box but had to hunt down the rest of the pieces that I didn't know were different. Nova was a big help as they had all the parts. I run this QS into an interface box that has adjustability then through the woolich software into the ecu. Personally and I don't have a lot of experience on other bikes but to me the Ducati gearbox in general, does not feel as good as some I have ridden out of the box. There is a lot of talk on different QS and what not, the gearbox itself at least for me was a big part of positive experience.